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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Changed the battery. Nothing is fixed.
Here are some codes that persist after I reset everything and cleared the low voltage codes from the battery changeover.
I also took some live value reads, you can see that the battery voltage shows as 0 and the BCM even knows something is up. By saying that there is an impossible battery voltage.
 

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Ok, so you’ve ruled out the battery, known fuses. Since you haven’t said otherwise I assume the car is stock, has not been tuned, etc.

My next step would be a dealer visit (much as I don’t like ‘em) to see if they can further diagnose the issue. But, if I was trying to do this myself my next step would be to source a new/lightly used EPS and (if possible) just get it electronically connected to the car so the car thinks it’s installed and see what happens.

Not sure if that is feasible or not, but if I could do that without actually removing the original EPS unit, that’s what I would try first. It will also give you a chance to check the wiring/connector to the EPS. If the fault remains, BCM would be the next step. And yes, this is basically the age-old diagnostic technique of throwing parts at the problem.

Ever get mice in your garage…?


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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Car isn't stock but never had an issue. Car was in an accident last year but has been fine since that time.
My guess is also that some wire is broken now.
Meaning it's likely a harness issue.

Maybe a wire started to rip while I was at the track and now has broken through.
As far as mice; never had them anywhere.

Car will likely stay broken for a while now. I have a ton of things to do over the next months so I guess it's just a large paperweight in the garage...
 
There's a 15A fuse in box under the hood that goes to the Power Steering Control Module, and I'm guessing that's the one you found.

There's also a 125A fuse at the alternator supposedly that feeds power directly to the PSCM as well. I'd check there next.

Even though the battery has been replaced, I figure I'll put this useful info from CB up if others find this thread and do have battery issues:
Well here is the SOC numbers from the manual:

voltage @32F 75F

12.75 100% 100%

12.70 100% 90%

12.60 90% 75%

12.45 75% 65%

12.20 65% 45%

12.00 40% 20%


That being said; just because your car starts without fuss does NOT mean the battery is adequately charged or healthy.

Go to Harbor freight; buy one of these Color Snap Blade Utility Knife for opening all them online purchases that land at your doorstep and look for the coupon for a free one of these 7 Function Digital Multimeter with any purchase. Get both for the change you found on the ground in the parking lot.

Immediately after a drive and shutting down the car check the voltage at the battery AFTER (10 minutes) the trunk light goes out. The next morning open the trunk and wait for the trunk light to go out and then check the voltage. This is the true open circuit voltage. Note well the variance between the first surface charge voltage and the true open circuit voltage.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
There's a 15A fuse in box under the hood that goes to the Power Steering Control Module, and I'm guessing that's the one you found.

There's also a 125A fuse at the alternator supposedly that feeds power directly to the PSCM as well. I'd check there next.

Even though the battery has been replaced, I figure I'll put this useful info from CB up if others find this thread and do have battery issues:
Awesome, I knew there had to be a bigger fuse. I looked up and found that there is a 125 amp and a 175 amp.
I read about how on some other vehicles the 175 amp fuse get partially burned which then causes problems with the eps.
There is also apparently a digital breaker in the fuse box which provides power to the EPS which can be tripped or fried by backfeeding.
When I originally tried to jump the car I put my car charger on to the red post under the hood in order to try to get some power to open the trunk with.
However it did not do anything so I just had to take the stuff out of the seats in order to pull down the rear back seat and use the emergency trunk release.

I will take a look at these couple things over the next week. I hope that it is this 125 amp fuse that you mentioned. Apparently if it dies it will cause a exactly the symptoms that I have. Where the power steering controller will work but it will not show any voltage.

I will report back and let you guys know what I find. Thanks again
 
This might be useful. Some fuse location and wiring diagrams to help with troubleshooting. You may have covered most of this, but every bit of Intel helps.

 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
This might be useful. Some fuse location and wiring diagrams to help with troubleshooting. You may have covered most of this, but every bit of Intel helps.

Awesome! Thanks. Gonna check it out this week.
 
Hey everybody, new here..
I've got a 2017 SS and my battery died the other week.
I jump the car and now I have no power steering. I read some things online about jumping the cars and killing power steering on some other Chevys.

Can't seem to figure out which fuse is for power steering.

I've got an error telling me to service the power steering when I turn the car on. I got this OBD2 dealer scanner thing but it doesn't have any other codes.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Have you found the electric power steering fuse yet? This picture might help you. Look for F41

Product Rectangle Font Material property Screenshot
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Have you found the electric power steering fuse yet? This picture might help you. Look for F41

View attachment 298074
I haven't had a chance to put it on my Lift yet.

The fuse you are referencing here is only for the eps ecu/controller. Not the rack itself. I found that one and pulled it and tested it out.
My dealer level scanner cannot communicate with the Ps module when it's disconnected and other can bus codes are thrown by a couple other systems.
My system does Respond with the fuse in but says batt voltage is 0 on the ps unit and bcm.
There is a code for it saying the batt voltage is impossible.
 
sure sounds like an open wire harness, bad connection / corrosion at rack electronics....or a fried module that cannot be trusted to deliver expected data back to the readers source. There is no way to know if jumping it had 100% of the cause, or nothing to do with it and just bad luck, coincidence or conspiracy. The steps taken to electrically get into the trunk may also have contributed. If not up on a lift yet, I'd look from that perspective as you probably see freakin' fuse boxes in your sleep by now....... And stay open minded, lotta smart folks on this forum who care about this unique car.
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
sure sounds like an open wire harness, bad connection / corrosion at rack electronics....or a fried module that cannot be trusted to deliver expected data back to the readers source. There is no way to know if jumping it had 100% of the cause, or nothing to do with it and just bad luck, coincidence or conspiracy. The steps taken to electrically get into the trunk may also have contributed. If not up on a lift yet, I'd look from that perspective as you probably see freakin' fuse boxes in your sleep by now....... And stay open minded, lotta smart folks on this forum who care about this unique car.
I've thought about it every day... Almost finished moving and I'll be able to do it. I miss the car now.

I still haven't put the trunk back together from the battery change either. Just in case I had to get into that rear fuse box again....
 
I've thought about it every day... Almost finished moving and I'll be able to do it. I miss the car now.

I still haven't put the trunk back together from the battery change either. Just in case I had to get into that rear fuse box again....
Hey man, I’ve been reading upon your problem & I’m sorry to hear. I just installed my motor back in my car and was having starting problems with service power steering rack. You may want to check the fuse on the battery terminal in trunk ( it sits on the positive terminal on the battery) I have a blown fuse on 300
 

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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Hey man, I’ve been reading upon your problem & I’m sorry to hear. I just installed my motor back in my car and was having starting problems with service power steering rack. You may want to check the fuse on the battery terminal in trunk ( it sits on the positive terminal on the battery) I have a blown fuse on 300
Hey man, Finally got my account back..
I tried this fuse and it is fine, all of the ones on the battery terminal are fine.

I put the car on my lift and I couldn't find the large cable and where it goes into the EPS. There is no fuse there that I can see either. I just see the plug that goes into the EPS, but then it disappears under the frame and behind a bunch of things...
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I confirmed that it is indeed the fuse that comes off the alternator today. I bit the bullet and went to the dealer yesterday (but not with the car) and they looked up the schematics for me in the parts department. So I confirmed where it is supposed to go and I was able to find it easily after that and confirm that the 125A Fuse is dead.
 
So, tell/show us where that sucker is located, please.
 
There is a set of two high amp (125 and 225) fuses at the battery jump point. Have you checked if there is voltage coming off of both of those? Gotta take that red cover off and you will see 2 bolts holding cables, one of those goes right to the PS.
 
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