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Eps fuse

10K views 47 replies 14 participants last post by  Green17 
#1 ·
Hey everybody, new here..
I've got a 2017 SS and my battery died the other week.
I jump the car and now I have no power steering. I read some things online about jumping the cars and killing power steering on some other Chevys.

Can't seem to figure out which fuse is for power steering.

I've got an error telling me to service the power steering when I turn the car on. I got this OBD2 dealer scanner thing but it doesn't have any other codes.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum @Green17 . Has the power steering recall been performed? I would start there. You have three different fuse panels in the SS. There is one under the hood, one on the driver's side of the dashboard, and one in the battery compartment in the trunk. The owner's manual should narrow down the location oof the fuse you are looking for. Good luck!
 
#3 ·
Welcome to the SS Fourms @Green17 !!

@15SuperSport ,,, he has a 17,,, no rack recalls!!!

That said,,, What he said,, about the fuse panels!! You mentioned a battery issue!! Start There!! If the battery is weak or failing,,, these types of errors can be indicative on these cars!! Have the battery tested,, and make sure the test gear is approved for use with the AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) Batteries these are specified with!! That would be my first step!!

ES
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys
I have already been through all of the fuse panels. None of mention which one is actually for power steering. There is one fuse that is 15 app that shows TCM/EPS.
However it is not broken but I changed it anyways.

The battery is the original battery that came with the car. However the battery has not ever been bad, and it has taken a charge just fine. I checked it with my battery tester and it is showing plenty of CCA... Has like 15% wear.

As far as the recall;
From what I have read before the 2017 models do not have the issue with the power steering. Considering that the vehicle never had any problems with the power steering I would reckon that this has to do with me jumping the car and the fuse going bad.

I was hoping that somebody knows what fuse is related to the power steering outside of that small 15 amp fuse.
 
#5 ·
Upon attaching my dealer scanner and scanning every single system. I got a code from the power steering module it is C0800-03. Says module low voltage.
I cleared the code on every other module which had them saved from when the battery died. And everything else is now working fine. However not the power steering. This is the only code that comes back.
 
#8 ·
Upon attaching my dealer scanner and scanning every single system. I got a code from the power steering module it is C0800-03. Says module low voltage.
I cleared the code on every other module which had them saved from when the battery died. And everything else is now working fine. However not the power steering. This is the only code that comes back.
@ESindon is correct, no recall on the 2017 SS EPS rack. Read the owners manual for the fuse locations in all 3 panels. Low battery voltage in the SS causes and has caused several different CEL's, from stabilitrac warnings to power steering to misfires, radio problems etc. I would load test the battery.

Your owner's manual spells out each fuse for each panel, you don't need to check each fuse, just read the manual.
 
#7 ·
But the battery voltage isn't bad. Car starts fine. CCA is fine....
Nothing else reports low voltage. Dash board shows over 12v in the menu.

I was just hoping someone knows what fuse it is. I will have to go through every fuse myself. Then I'll report back after I fix it.
 
#9 · (Edited)
The battery would be my guess. My 2017 battery died on schedule, and I treated it with TLC and two Hail Marry’s. However, it seldom returns once it fails, and I don’t trust the diagnostics to always pick up on it unless it’s a catastrophic failure.
 
#10 ·
Always possible you had a failure in the EPS coincident but not related to jumping the car.

But…why did you jump it in the first place? “My battery died” does not equal “My battery is fine”.

You have a battery that is at least 6 years old and only you know the history of the car…miles driven, climate, etc that can take a toll on the battery. It does no harm (other than some money) to replace the battery with new. If you haven’t had the old one properly load tested you don’t really know the status of the battery, and failing batteries are known to cause very odd issues in these cars.

Worst case, you have a new battery and you continue your troubleshooting process.


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#11 ·
Always possible you had a failure in the EPS coincident but not related to jumping the car.

But…why did you jump it in the first place? “My battery died” does not equal “My battery is fine”.

You have a battery that is at least 6 years old and only you know the history of the car…miles driven, climate, etc that can take a toll on the battery. It does no harm (other than some money) to replace the battery with new. If you haven’t had the old one properly load tested you don’t really know the status of the battery, and failing batteries are known to cause very odd issues in these cars.

Worst case, you have a new battery and you continue your troubleshooting process.


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I left my OBD2 flasher plugged in for weeks.
I know the entire history of the car as I am the only owner.
The car has spent its entire life garage and the battery has never had a problem. Since I have been moving I have not been driving the car. I took it to the racetrack and then I left it in the garage for 2 weeks.

The car is a 2017. So the battery is not at least 6 years old. However like I said I put my battery tester on the battery and it is fine.

I'm not sure why everyone is harping over the battery being bad when the battery is fine and the rest of the car works completely fine. The power steering module does not have any power. So the fuse that runs the power steering is blown.

As I mentioned in a previous post I looked around the internet and found other people with Chevy's having similar problems after jumping their cars from 100% dead. I however did not find a solution for the SS.
 
#14 ·
There are no hidden fuses. There is one listed for the middle fuse panel. Your car was probably built in the fall of 2016 with a battery mfg obviously being older than that. You've not pulled the battery and done a proper load test. People harping on the battery have been here longer than you've owned the car, and are trying to help you. Good luck in the future.
 
#19 ·

Also check fuse F6 in the dash fuse block. Make sure to check the date on the new battery and put a full charge on it when you get it home. Some do it before installation, some after.
 
#21 ·
Changed the battery. Nothing is fixed.
Here are some codes that persist after I reset everything and cleared the low voltage codes from the battery changeover.
I also took some live value reads, you can see that the battery voltage shows as 0 and the BCM even knows something is up. By saying that there is an impossible battery voltage.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Ok, so you’ve ruled out the battery, known fuses. Since you haven’t said otherwise I assume the car is stock, has not been tuned, etc.

My next step would be a dealer visit (much as I don’t like ‘em) to see if they can further diagnose the issue. But, if I was trying to do this myself my next step would be to source a new/lightly used EPS and (if possible) just get it electronically connected to the car so the car thinks it’s installed and see what happens.

Not sure if that is feasible or not, but if I could do that without actually removing the original EPS unit, that’s what I would try first. It will also give you a chance to check the wiring/connector to the EPS. If the fault remains, BCM would be the next step. And yes, this is basically the age-old diagnostic technique of throwing parts at the problem.

Ever get mice in your garage…?


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#24 ·
Car isn't stock but never had an issue. Car was in an accident last year but has been fine since that time.
My guess is also that some wire is broken now.
Meaning it's likely a harness issue.

Maybe a wire started to rip while I was at the track and now has broken through.
As far as mice; never had them anywhere.

Car will likely stay broken for a while now. I have a ton of things to do over the next months so I guess it's just a large paperweight in the garage...
 
#25 ·
There's a 15A fuse in box under the hood that goes to the Power Steering Control Module, and I'm guessing that's the one you found.

There's also a 125A fuse at the alternator supposedly that feeds power directly to the PSCM as well. I'd check there next.

Even though the battery has been replaced, I figure I'll put this useful info from CB up if others find this thread and do have battery issues:
Well here is the SOC numbers from the manual:

voltage @32F 75F

12.75 100% 100%

12.70 100% 90%

12.60 90% 75%

12.45 75% 65%

12.20 65% 45%

12.00 40% 20%


That being said; just because your car starts without fuss does NOT mean the battery is adequately charged or healthy.

Go to Harbor freight; buy one of these Color Snap Blade Utility Knife for opening all them online purchases that land at your doorstep and look for the coupon for a free one of these 7 Function Digital Multimeter with any purchase. Get both for the change you found on the ground in the parking lot.

Immediately after a drive and shutting down the car check the voltage at the battery AFTER (10 minutes) the trunk light goes out. The next morning open the trunk and wait for the trunk light to go out and then check the voltage. This is the true open circuit voltage. Note well the variance between the first surface charge voltage and the true open circuit voltage.
 
#26 ·
Awesome, I knew there had to be a bigger fuse. I looked up and found that there is a 125 amp and a 175 amp.
I read about how on some other vehicles the 175 amp fuse get partially burned which then causes problems with the eps.
There is also apparently a digital breaker in the fuse box which provides power to the EPS which can be tripped or fried by backfeeding.
When I originally tried to jump the car I put my car charger on to the red post under the hood in order to try to get some power to open the trunk with.
However it did not do anything so I just had to take the stuff out of the seats in order to pull down the rear back seat and use the emergency trunk release.

I will take a look at these couple things over the next week. I hope that it is this 125 amp fuse that you mentioned. Apparently if it dies it will cause a exactly the symptoms that I have. Where the power steering controller will work but it will not show any voltage.

I will report back and let you guys know what I find. Thanks again
 
#27 ·
This might be useful. Some fuse location and wiring diagrams to help with troubleshooting. You may have covered most of this, but every bit of Intel helps.

 
#30 ·
I haven't had a chance to put it on my Lift yet.

The fuse you are referencing here is only for the eps ecu/controller. Not the rack itself. I found that one and pulled it and tested it out.
My dealer level scanner cannot communicate with the Ps module when it's disconnected and other can bus codes are thrown by a couple other systems.
My system does Respond with the fuse in but says batt voltage is 0 on the ps unit and bcm.
There is a code for it saying the batt voltage is impossible.
 
#31 ·
sure sounds like an open wire harness, bad connection / corrosion at rack electronics....or a fried module that cannot be trusted to deliver expected data back to the readers source. There is no way to know if jumping it had 100% of the cause, or nothing to do with it and just bad luck, coincidence or conspiracy. The steps taken to electrically get into the trunk may also have contributed. If not up on a lift yet, I'd look from that perspective as you probably see freakin' fuse boxes in your sleep by now....... And stay open minded, lotta smart folks on this forum who care about this unique car.
 
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#35 ·
I confirmed that it is indeed the fuse that comes off the alternator today. I bit the bullet and went to the dealer yesterday (but not with the car) and they looked up the schematics for me in the parts department. So I confirmed where it is supposed to go and I was able to find it easily after that and confirm that the 125A Fuse is dead.
 
#36 ·
So, tell/show us where that sucker is located, please.
 
#37 ·
There is a set of two high amp (125 and 225) fuses at the battery jump point. Have you checked if there is voltage coming off of both of those? Gotta take that red cover off and you will see 2 bolts holding cables, one of those goes right to the PS.
 
#42 ·
Well dang! Why didn't I remember way back at the first post to look for the PS wiring diagram?
Sure 'nuf, here it be. Scroll to post #4 and click on the last attachment in that post:
 
#44 ·
So I managed to finally fix the EPS fuse.... I had to go buy a Milwaukee 3/8 right angle impact to get the 125A post nut off.... the entire thing has nothing that holds it but a plastic housing and I mangled everything trying to get that bolt loose! Even 3 applications of liquid wrench did nothing...

Now my reverse lockout is still broken sadly, I replaced the solenoid last night after I confirmed the steering was working but it didn't do anything Anyone have diagrams for that one?
 
#45 ·
So I managed to finally fix the EPS fuse.... I had to go buy a Milwaukee 3/8 right angle impact to get the 125A post nut off.... the entire thing has nothing that holds it but a plastic housing and I mangled everything trying to get that bolt loose! Even 3 applications of liquid wrench did nothing...

Now my reverse lockout is still broken sadly, I replaced the solenoid last night after I confirmed the steering was working but it didn't do anything Anyone have diagrams for that one?


Reverse Inhibit Description and Operation
The reverse inhibit solenoid is a safety feature which prevents an inadvertent shift into reverse at speeds above 5 km/h (3 mph) . The system consists of the following components:


The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) .
The reverse inhibit solenoid.
With the ignition ON battery voltage is supplied directly to the reverse inhibit solenoid. At forward speeds above 5 km/h (3 mph) the PCM grounds the control circuit of the reverse inhibit solenoid. This energizes the solenoid and mechanically blocks the shift lever from going into the REVERSE position.
 
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