Thanks for sharing!

 

Excellent!

 

So to ask a dumb question, where did you place the jack as you raised the car to get the stands in position? Did you use a floor jack or the OEM jack at the crimp points? If floor jack, how'd you do that part?

 

I used a long reach floor jack. Beyond that you are on your own. I can handle one controversy at a time :laugh

HAHAHAHAHA! only rao

If you say so

Your front locations appear to be a bit further inboard that what is shown here in the diagrams:
Chevy SS Forum - View Single Post - Lift point information

[EDIT] THOSE ARE SOME RANDOM JACKING POINTS, IN FACT I AM NOT EVEN SURE THAT THE CAR IN THOSE PICS IS AN SS.

 

HAHAHAHAHA! only rao

 

Your front locations appear to be a bit further inboard that what is shown here in the diagrams:
Chevy SS Forum - View Single Post - Lift point information

 

correct.

the correct spot is the round 'torque box' with the big scratched up hole from the assy line lift pad/pin.

 

SS on Jack Stands at Official Jacking Points

I hate this...it should be a better diagram etc......

Pinetree I think the link is messed up took me to the wrong post. Could just be tap talk though.

 

Thanks for the pics, helps a lot!

 

hmm, Nick, it works ok on my laptop. :shrug:
Diagrams are in post #4 of this thread: http://www.ssforums.com/forum/warranty-service-issues/5626-lift-point-information.html#post84162

 

Rubber Top Stands


Yep. I got these 3-ton rubber top stands last year. They come tall and short. I got the short ones. At the lowest setting, the SS wheels are still off the ground.
Good to know rao thanks.

 

OK, guess GM documents are incorrect. Carry on.

 

hmy:

I'm not sure that drawing matches the car.

 

Know how big the assembly line lift pad/pin hole is? I would assume with the right pad/pin this would be a good lifting/supporting point? Does the rear have similar locations (big pad/pin holes as well)?

 

Know how big the assembly line lift pad/pin hole is?

http://www.ssforums.com/forum/attac...hments/warranty-service-issues/2978d1385825210-lift-point-information-lift3.jpg

It is the biggest hole.

I would assume with the right pad/pin this would be a good lifting/supporting point? Does the rear have similar locations (big pad/pin holes as well)?

No hole see above attachment.

...

 

I know. The key thing is to jack the car up by the hole and then support it using the hole.

 

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction CB.

Hard to tell solely by that pic/diagram, but my jackpoint jackstand plates actually look like they might fit there. I will have to check once my car gets here in a few months.

Although being right behind the wheels, that might not be completely convenient to use.

For supporting the rear on the assembly line, were there any smaller positioning holes, or just a pad in the proper location?

 

Again; rear: corrugated pad no hole(s).

 

Like all of these threads, there always seems to be a little confusion. Is this the spot the front stands should be? What about the rears? Are those correct?

 

The entire kidney shaped plate is the lifting point shown by the diagram. Some folks think it is important to lift the car using the holes in that plate, which I would like to see pictures captured in pictures.

 

Right. Then 2-3 people will chime in saying that this is wrong. That's why these threads always end up up in the air. I guess it would help if the diagram looked anything like the actual bottom of the car. Appreciate the pics RAO. Helps a lot as long as everyone can agree

 

I have read that the diagram is an exact representation of the bottom of the car.

 

Its a good representation of the bottom of the car. The confusion is that this thread is titled "SS on Jack Stands at Official Jacking Points" but the stands in the front are not placed at the locations specified by GM. One could argue the spots chosen in the front by the OP are better for a jack stand than GM recommends, and I would likely agree, but they aren't the "official" locations provided by GM.

 

I have edited the first post and am sending a PM to the moderators to change the title of this thread.

 

Ok good, so that rear point is what I used when changing my wheels. If you use that point and have a tall enough jack, it will lift the entire side of the car. The front point is a b*tch to get to with a jack, especially if your suspension is lowered. My little HF aluminum jack worked great for wheel changing last weekend. I fought with that front point on one side, but then realized I could lift the entire car with that rear point. The 2nd side took 1/3 as long doing it that way.

Thanks for posting, rao.

 

Not the best thing to do from a bending standpoint.

Definitely not the best from a safety standpoint.

 

Your best bet is to not attempt jack up the car at all - it is much too complicated. I'd bring the car to an authorized Chevrolet dealer and have the professionals there handle it for you.

 

Japan is a trans-shipping point for many SS's. They go from Australia to Japan, change ships and then across the Pacific.

 

Thanks. Didn't know they made in a stop in Japan between AU and the US.

 

As esfoad said, my car is "in the shipping process" according to my order status update. Speculation put it on the American Highway and dropped in Japan waiting for a ship to the US. Still a long trip to NJ after it hitches a ride!

 

your exhaust is all rusty, you clearly don't care enough about your car that you're driving it

 

I try not to but sometimes I can't help myself.

I have a call into the local dealer so it can be taken by flatbed for a full inspection. My service adviser thinks they might be able to save it.

I ordered several catch cans in attempt to right the many wrongs.

FYI for any folks who intend to use the center of the front jacking plates instead of my ill conceived point which is the side of the plate under the frame rail, please post pics of the dents to the plates

 

CB. Read sarcasm.

 

Dear god...I hope this is right...flame suit on...