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Discussion starter · #22 ·
What is this hole for, and shouldn't the nipple pointed downward be capped?
View attachment 286351
Yeah I saw that too but I was explained by multiple sources that it does something with the pressure and should be left open. Not sure what that mounting hole is for.....

Did not see this post above ^^
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Here is a little update. I have the HP Tuners Kit and did a real time scan of the car. I rev'd it once and just took a capture of what that looked like with the log file. I attached it. I am not sure if the reading on the MAF should have a dip there. Is there diagnosing I can do with this kit on my side??

Also I will be taking in the car (hopefully next week) to get a backpressure test done on the cats to make sure they arent clogged or collapsed.

Taylor
 

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Here is a little update. I have the HP Tuners Kit and did a real time scan of the car. I rev'd it once and just took a capture of what that looked like with the log file. I attached it. I am not sure if the reading on the MAF should have a dip there. Is there diagnosing I can do with this kit on my side??

Also I will be taking in the car (hopefully next week) to get a backpressure test done on the cats to make sure they arent clogged or collapsed.

Taylor
Well, you got 3 degrees of timing pulled due to knock retard. Not sure you should see any spark knock on an unloaded engine rev. Plus intake temp is up there.

The MAF reading does look odd.

A good tuner should be able to figure it out......
 
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well crap, I stand much corrected. That is the IAT port that is not used with the E38 PCM. Disregard that whole answer... I thought I was on to something.
Yeah - intake AIR temperature - where’s the air coming from lol

Anywho, there should be the one from the LS3 intake or the old LS3 MAP there to act as a plug, just not connected
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That’s it there below the right corner of the lid.



I agree that the IATs are kinda high, that’ll certainly kill some oomph...especially on pump gas.

But I’m far from an expert...log as much as you can and get it to an expert before you pop it!

Welcome! [emoji41]
 
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I believe you may have a few issues going on. Instead of your appointment testing the back pressure I would spend that time and money towards a complete and total solution. It's a bit of a drive but well worth it. If I told you that you could go a three hours away and drop your car off and pick it up and have it 110% without a doubt would you do it?
 
Message Koza automotive and performance on Facebook or give them a call. they are extremely experienced in this platform and with LSA setups. They are a One-Stop shop and will be able to take care of any mechanical issues and get the tune on point. It sucks that you've already paid someone to do this but as of right now you are definitely not getting what you paid for so it may be time to just cut your losses and bring it to a professional.
I am absolutely confident that Koza will be a end-all be-all solution for your mechanical or tune or both problems.
 

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Diagnostic tree ... follow it.

Start with a complete review of the complete mechanical install before revising the tune. This can be done only with eyeballs and hands; not internet pics and second guessing.

This is common sense.
 
Hi Guys,

First post here. I have a 2017 AUTOMATIC SS with a recently (1 year ago) added LSA supercharger. I had it put on by a local shop that specializes in aftermarket LS3 upgrades. The entire experience since I had this installed has been painful and the car has never run correctly since. I am hoping that someone out there with a little more knowledge can help me pinpoint the cause of all of my issue so I can get it fixed.

To start off, the day I picked up the SS with the new LSA blower, the car had issues dying when coming to hard stops. This happens mostly when I shift down myself and the RPMs drop quickly. They will just fall to 0 and the car turns off. If I am slightly more gentle, the car will dip to about 300-400 rpms, then jump back up to idle and throw the car forward. I have learned to deal with this by coming to a near stop then releasing the break for a second so allow the car to return to idle naturally. I have taken the car to a second tuner to look at and paid for that tuning as well. Very little improvement.

The second and more pressing issue is a serious loss of horsepower. During the summer I thought this was a "Heat Soak" issue, but ive learned this happens even in the colder weather (40F). I lose a large amount of horse power (50-100HP). Essentially if feels like there is no supercharger on the car (although I can hear its whine). Now here is the odd part, on each gear shift it feels like the supercharger is there and I get shoved back in the seat like I should. Its almost as if the RPMs are not building at the speed they should.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what could cause this? A bad tune? A bad mechanical setup? Bad Injector, fuel pump, Vacuum leak somewhere? My mind is stuck on a Vacuum or air leak somewhere.

Neither of the two places that have worked on the car seem to be willing to respond or try and figure out what the issue is so I am at a bit of a loss...

I appreciate any help and support.

Taylor Hubbard
Sounds like fuel pump/ pressure issue
 
Has anyone suggested collapsed brick yet? Very common. IAT's will be high, power will suffer, especially in summer. We use these - link to combat that.

The rest sounds tuning related. If you have HP tuners pro & a wideband (or an OBD2 WB), we offer remote tuning. The stalling/etc is likely an airflow/timing issue. But there are a lot of moving parts to a tune and everyone does things a bit differently, so we always start from scratch. If you're wanting to touch up what you have, I'd suggest checking out the HP tuners forums.
 
Has anyone suggested collapsed brick yet? Very common. IAT's will be high, power will suffer, especially in summer. We use these - link to combat that.

The rest sounds tuning related. If you have HP tuners pro & a wideband (or an OBD2 WB), we offer remote tuning. The stalling/etc is likely an airflow/timing issue. But there are a lot of moving parts to a tune and everyone does things a bit differently, so we always start from scratch. If you're wanting to touch up what you have, I'd suggest checking out the HP tuners forums.
Good point - I had that issue
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Thank you everyone for the support here. I reached out to Koza and am getting a quote and most likely bringing it up to him in February. From all that I gathered I think that the Cats need to be replaced (maybe no cats at all) along with the sensors for both banks just to ensure the car is reading everything correctly. Koza recommended Kooks for exhaust. Then I think injectors may be the other issue. Seems that my current installer used a brand: Siemens Deka. Never heard about them before and they may be a little low on the lbs. Also looking back my current turner was complaining about the injectors not having very easy to read time tables. I think I may do the exhaust early and then let Koza do the injectors and the tune. Talking to him on the phone he seems very knowledgeable and I feel like the car will be in good hands. I think all said and done the total cost will be around $3,000. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
I would leave it alone and not "complicate" the issue(s) by second guessing resulting in randomly replaced parts that may/may not be an issue.

Bite the bullet and leave it ALL to the pro(s). In the end this will be cheaper if your wallet is of concern

Like I said before in post #28:

 
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