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Discussion starter · #41 ·
your exhaust is all rusty, you clearly don't care enough about your car that you're driving it
I try not to but sometimes I can't help myself.

I have a call into the local dealer so it can be taken by flatbed for a full inspection. My service adviser thinks they might be able to save it.

I ordered several catch cans in attempt to right the many wrongs.

FYI for any folks who intend to use the center of the front jacking plates instead of my ill conceived point which is the side of the plate under the frame rail, please post pics of the dents to the plates ;)
 
I try not to but sometimes I can't help myself.

I have a call into the local dealer so it can be taken by flatbed for a full inspection. My service adviser thinks they might be able to save it.

I ordered several catch cans in attempt to right the many wrongs.

FYI for any folks who intend to use the center of the front jacking plates instead of my ill conceived point which is the side of the plate under the frame rail, please post pics of the dents to the plates ;)
Why???

What did I miss???
 
Dear god...I hope this is right...flame suit on...

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Image
 
Come on in, the water is fine.....


If you want to bend the front plate it is ;)
Well I have resorted to using a 3" to 4" square piece of plywood between the jack and the car to help distribute the weight and prevent bends. Seems to work fine.
 
An FYI - a vendor, ZL1 ADD ONS, has a very cool item that is used with a floor jack. It is designed to perfectly fit the pinch-welds for lifting so no floor pans or cross members get damaged... = it works. There is a thread on this forum with details as this is how I found them. (I am not affiliated with them in any way, merely trying to stop potential damage)
 
Discussion starter · #49 · (Edited)
Well I have resorted to using a 3" to 4" square piece of plywood between the jack and the car to help distribute the weight and prevent bends. Seems to work fine.
That's the true sign of a proper jacking point - the need to use plywood to dissipate the load to prevent damage to the jacking point ;)
 
That's the true sign of a proper jacking point - the need to use plywood to dissipate the load to prevent damage to the jacking point ;)
Yes, I agree its a PITA. My '81 Chevy truck is made of real steel everywhere and I can basically place a jack anywhere. On the other hand, the truck is rattly, squeaky, and is capable of out handling a garbage truck. With better technology comes other changes. Embrace it.

At least we don't have German or Italian maintenance schedules or fees (McLaren puts the cost of an oil change alone at $8,000)! I am upset I lost 2 of my 4 free oil changes due to time running out.

Ferrari dealers are required to buy a $10,000 kit that includes a special scissor lift to do work on the Enzo! So compare that to our SS jacking struggles.

So, its a small price to pay, and we can still actually work on our cars.
 
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An FYI - a vendor, ZL1 ADD ONS, has a very cool item that is used with a floor jack. It is designed to perfectly fit the pinch-welds for lifting so no floor pans or cross members get damaged... = it works. There is a thread on this forum with details as this is how I found them. (I am not affiliated with them in any way, merely trying to stop potential damage)
And Jackpoint Jackstands has a product that will allow you to both jack up AND SUPPORT the car in the recommended pinch weld locations used with the factory spare tire jack. No affiliation from me ither than being a VERY satisfied customer.
 
And Jackpoint Jackstands has a product that will allow you to both jack up AND SUPPORT the car in the recommended pinch weld locations used with the factory spare tire jack. No affiliation from me ither than being a VERY satisfied customer.
Is this it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgsZmjkPCM0

I guess I need to loose a few pounds, because I am going to need more lift than that! :crying
 
If you look at the sacred drawing, the pinch welds are NOT lift points. Just sayin'
If you look at the owner's manual, the pinch welds are the jack points for the factory jack in the trunk.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Correct, but I have read right here that there is a difference between lifting a corner of the car to change a tire and lifting the entire car. Once again, refer to the sacred diagram - it does not show the pinch welds as lift points.
 
I don't even understand what we are arguing about anymore.
If you use a standard floor jack or hydraulic lift, use the 'sacred diagram' as your guide.
If you use the factory trunk jack, or the aftermarket floor jack adapters (such as Jackpoint Jackstands), use the pinch welds as indicated in the owners manual.
 
Am I the only one that believes you should use the "lift points" when raising the car with a 4 point vehicle lift and that you also place jack stands at those points after raising the SS at the factory jacking locations (pinchweld recess) with the OEM jack or with a floor jack equipped with the proper pinch weld adapter?
It's not that hard to visualize that we're really trying to inappropriately apply the same terminology and procedures to two different operations that both result in the car being lifted and supported.
Seems to me that Silver Surfer is the closest to the bulls-eye so far.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
No arguing here. I am fully confident that I can lift and support the car in a safe manner.

I was pilloried for using the pinch weld locations to lift the car.

I am just pointing out that if you follow the advice from all of the experts here it is impossible to lift the car in any way other than using a 4 post lift or a 2 post lift using the points on the sacred diagram and never mind that fact that doing this will deform the front lift points.
 
That is why I use a jack with a wood block at the deform spots to raise the car, and then slide wheel cribs under the tires like this (not my car btw). I don't trust jack stands (the Jackpoint ones look solid though).
Image
 
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