Going to hardwire my dashcam. Which switched fuse is the best to tap into? Have a piggyback add-a-fuse.
Best fuse to tap into
SlowSS
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What do you guys use to change the 12V to 5V?
I've used a old phone charger before, and just cut and splice and use the board inside. However, the amperage isn't enough/consistent?
I've used a old phone charger before, and just cut and splice and use the board inside. However, the amperage isn't enough/consistent?
I've purchased that same dash cam, worked like 3 times and it fried itself with the original charger...the company wants me to spend more money to ship it back to them to get a replacement
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My camera came with a hardwire kit to micro USB. Just like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Dash-Camera-Vehicle/dp/B00S73FE8A
http://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Dash-Camera-Vehicle/dp/B00S73FE8A
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795 Posts
thanks, maybe I should spend the dough
so mirror is a good power source for ignition switch power?
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I powered mine via the dashboard fuse panel. I used an add-a-circuit on the positive end and grounded the negative. Since I wanted 24/7 power, I tapped into one of the shunts and used a 3 amp fuse for the camera. Regular fuse shown but ours are actually minis:
![Image]()
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Ok so after a couple days with it powered on 24/7, I decided I'd rather have it hooked up with switched power. It turns out that all of the fuses in the dashboard panel are always on so I had to run power to the trunk fuse panel. Pretty easy to do cleanly. I hooked into the retained accessory power fuse. Since my camera mount has dual power inputs, I might run a 2nd hardwire kit to the front fuse panel and leave it unplugged at the mount in case I ever want to temporarily have full-time power.
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I powered mine via the dashboard fuse panel. I used an add-a-circuit on the positive end and grounded the negative. Since I wanted 24/7 power, I tapped into one of the shunts and used a 3 amp fuse for the camera. Regular fuse shown but ours are actually minis:
![Image]()
The above is how i've powered up all my detectors. I too was looking for a key-on power source in dash fusepanel. As Kannon mentioned, all were constant power there. In the interim I kept it there and just powered the detector down at night down...
All that said, I have forgotten to turn it off several times now to come out and find the device off in AM. So the source i'm using might just remain on for a period of time after car is locked... Ideally i'd want it to power back up upon starting, so will have to run to engine bay or trunk fusepanel, but I was mostly surprised by the delayed power i tapped. If anyone else can confirm their does this too, i forget which fuse i finally decided on as I tried a handful.
I can confirm this as well. I've had my detector plugged in for several weeks now and in the mornings it's off. Battery is fine as well.
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324 Posts
I just got a BlackVue 2-channel dash cam. So, it has a front and rear HD camera. My plan is to get some professional help installing the thing so I won't tear up the roof lining or miss wire it. I also got a "Power Magic Pro" which is a switch that will let the camera run when the car is off but will shut off the camera before it drains the car battery. I also have some fuse taps.
My understanding is that there is a fuse panel under the dash I can tap into. Where is this under-dash fuse panel?
In my older cars, I could see it. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place. I want to make sure the installer knows his way around an SS (as evidently, I do not quite yet).
Ok, edit:
I found the under dash fuse box. Now, is there one fuse that is better to tap into? I want one that will run all the time. I see F-29 "accessories"? Seems those fuses may shut off after a bit. Trunk fuse? I have no idea, maybe a professional dash cam/stereo installer will know, but the SS is a different breed they may have never seen before. I am going to ask the dealer next week which fuse is best for constant power.
My understanding is that there is a fuse panel under the dash I can tap into. Where is this under-dash fuse panel?
In my older cars, I could see it. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place. I want to make sure the installer knows his way around an SS (as evidently, I do not quite yet).
Ok, edit:
I found the under dash fuse box. Now, is there one fuse that is better to tap into? I want one that will run all the time. I see F-29 "accessories"? Seems those fuses may shut off after a bit. Trunk fuse? I have no idea, maybe a professional dash cam/stereo installer will know, but the SS is a different breed they may have never seen before. I am going to ask the dealer next week which fuse is best for constant power.
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I have the BlackVue 650s-2ch camera on my 2015 SS. I hardwired it with the Power Magic Pro box. I used a fuse tap for Batt and ACC power in the trunk and don't have issues with it except for the remote start does not work, I'm thinking I'm using too small of an amp fuse (3 amp).
My question is, for those that have the BlackVue cam, what size amp fuse did you use for the camera using the fuse tap?
My question is, for those that have the BlackVue cam, what size amp fuse did you use for the camera using the fuse tap?
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113 Posts
I'm using 3 amp fuses on my Power Magic Pro. Fuse taps using constant power from fuse box on left side of dash and switched power from fuse box near battery in rear.
Highly recommend the Power Magic Pro. You can set it to turn off at low voltage (12 or 12.5) or timer 6-120 hours.
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26 Posts
Update on my issue with remote start. It was completely NOT related to the selected fuse spots I chose for my camera setup. It was a defective hood latch sensor making the car (BCM) think my hood was open. Dealer wanted $140 for part plus labor; I paid $53 and installed it myself.
warranty expired ???
It has to be one of the first '15's or have more than 36K miles ???
Or was it not covered due to your electrical system mods ???
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121 Posts
SO, learn from my mistake. If you choose to tap in to a fuse on the trunk fuse panel, make sure you're not drawing power through it, but rather using it as a relay trigger. Also, if you can avoid tapping into the fuses at all, that would be better. Be warned that if you do, you'll risk burning up whatever circuit you tap into, and you could cause serious issues. In my case, it was a constant battery draw-down, and my battery was constantly showing dead.
Now I have to install a independent fuse/relay box (like this one), and find a way to use power as a trigger on the relay bus. That would at in theory at least, prevent drawing too much current through the fuse block. I may end up having to use a secondary, independent relay just to trigger the relay bus, otherwise all relays on the relay bus would be drawing from that one fuse circuit. Yikes!
If you want more info on this, I found an EXCELLENT DIY writeup here: DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 ? Introduction | Bodenzord
He's using a 15303-2-2-4 Bussmann block, but I'm not sure which would be best in our situation. I may attempt to find whatever circuit is used for the truck power outlet and tap into that for trigger, assuming it's ignition triggered.
Either way, it seems our electrical systems are very fragile little snowflakes. I'm just happy to have my car back after a week of driving a Malibu LS.
Edit:
This post has good info on the pin to tap for the trunk power circuit. Use that in conjunction with a standard relay to trigger power to the relay bus on the Bussman relay block. I think I need to say relay at least one more time. Relay.
Now I have to install a independent fuse/relay box (like this one), and find a way to use power as a trigger on the relay bus. That would at in theory at least, prevent drawing too much current through the fuse block. I may end up having to use a secondary, independent relay just to trigger the relay bus, otherwise all relays on the relay bus would be drawing from that one fuse circuit. Yikes!
If you want more info on this, I found an EXCELLENT DIY writeup here: DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 ? Introduction | Bodenzord
He's using a 15303-2-2-4 Bussmann block, but I'm not sure which would be best in our situation. I may attempt to find whatever circuit is used for the truck power outlet and tap into that for trigger, assuming it's ignition triggered.
Either way, it seems our electrical systems are very fragile little snowflakes. I'm just happy to have my car back after a week of driving a Malibu LS.
Edit:
This post has good info on the pin to tap for the trunk power circuit. Use that in conjunction with a standard relay to trigger power to the relay bus on the Bussman relay block. I think I need to say relay at least one more time. Relay.
I like these, I've installed several. Relay is built in.
Painless Performance Cirkit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Blocks 70203
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70203/overview/
Painless Performance Cirkit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Blocks 70203
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70203/overview/
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