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Discussion Starter #1
Installed headers and exhaust this weekend.
Disappointed I had to make some minor "adjustment" to one tube on the driver side to clear the steering shaft. Other than that and having no lift and on my back it went pretty good.
Passenger side just squeezed in without removing starter.
Three of the O2 sensor cables needed to be extended. Passenger side post cat was ok.
The dipstick was a pain to get back in.

No CEL yet. Will need to drive it awhile and see if I get one.

 

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I really like the Xforce system! I had it on my Caprice and it sounded great. Did you buy the system from Summit? Are you going to get the smart box?
 

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I just purchased these plus the smart box from summit...any tips on the install to make it easier when they arrive?
 

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Those look and sound nice. Good job!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I really like the Xforce system! I had it on my Caprice and it sounded great. Did you buy the system from Summit? Are you going to get the smart box?
Yes, I got both the cat back and the headers from Summit. I don't plan on using the quite setting very often so I probably wont get the smart box.
 

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Can you post the part numbers or links? I think I'm going to pull the trigger on these also. ?

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Discussion Starter #7
I just purchased these plus the smart box from summit...any tips on the install to make it easier when they arrive?
I used the ARP stud kit 4341301
Be prepared to splice the O2 sensor cables. The driver side you can unplug but the passenger side I cut about 3" up from the sensor to leave enough hanging to get at it to solder extension wires to.
As an after thought, I would use two of the original bolts on the driver side to test fit the header. I used the studs and after about 5 times in and out finally got the tube tweaked (nice way of saying dented) so it wouldn't hit the steering shaft. The header goes in and out if you keep the first and fourth stud in. The steering shaft has double-D flats on the gear box so it isn't an issue lining it up when you take it off. And after about 5x of test fitting it came off by hand easy. I marked the spot it was rubbing and used a deep impact socket to tweak it at the shaft angle and probably a 1/4" deep.
Passenger side header was a bear to get up in there but once it was in I didn't have to take it out.
Put the dip stick back in while you are doing the header. I waited until I got the car down and was doing the plugs and said ohhh SH*T. Had to jack it up and get the wife to help while I was underneath. It goes behind the motor mount and turn it and it lines up then.
Put the cat pipes all the way into the x-pipe about 7"-8". I used a board to tap them in. Also put the axle pipes on the other end of the x-pipe. Install the assembly as a unit. You will know your length is correct by looking at the hanger by the rear end. They should line up when the header flanges are flush. I first tried to put each section on separately, gave up pulled it all down. It went easy after assembling and installing as one unit.
For the mufflers, line up the flanges and snug them up, then the pipes will twist where you need them.
I looked for a grommet for the control wires in the trunk but there are none around. I drilled a 3/4" hole at each corner into the plastic spare well directly above the end of the muffler. Used a grommet and caulk to seal them. Feed the wire down from in the trunk, then from in the trunk, under the liner at the rear to the battery compartment. Follow the main power wire (red) along the side to the back corner by the rear seat. If you pull on the seat by the shoulder area you can see into the trunk. Grab the wire then feed it down along the side to the front. Took me awhile to figure out because I didn't want to take a seat out.

I hope this helps with your install and it goes smoothly!
 

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Only issue I had was the system didn't tuck in the tunnel to allow the stock tunnel brace so I modified the front pipes. Another option is to make or buy an aftermarket one that gives extra clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Only issue I had was the system didn't tuck in the tunnel to allow the stock tunnel brace so I modified the front pipes. Another option is to make or buy an aftermarket one that gives extra clearance.
Series 7 has a 6"-8" of slide capability going into the x-pipe. From your photos I'm not sure yours did.
They may have gotten the pipes going around the axle figured out too. I had no issues there.
They also include an offset tunnel brace. (no washers) Pretty cheap design, but compared to the stock one it can't be any worse so I used it.
When you order the headers the first section of the cat back is replaced with the cated section that comes with the headers.
 

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I'm curious if you'd be able to utilize the '16-17 bimodal connectors with the Varex mufflers and not need to purchase their smart box.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The cat back system comes with the XFO-VK02 controller box. All it does is reverse the polarity going to the valve motors and uses the wireless fob.
You could just use a 6-pole momentary switch mom,on-off-mom,on to activate the motors.
You would need to check the wiring on the bimodal system to see how it works. I wouldn't think they are doing anything different.
 

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It's Great Exhaust System I have Visited there Huge Ware house in Sydney Australia last year they are now setting up Head Quarters in Ohio .. the New Series system has mid hot dog style muffler/ Resonators which give the system a deeper sound compared to the earlier set up and adjustments for the tips on the mufflers , I have the older style on my Holden ute until it was recently sold so I kept the Varex Muffler and waiting on a Cat back mid section for my SS ... These systems are designed for our cars and are Very popular back home in Australia..and NO They don't sell just the mufflers they sell Performance Exhaust systems so you get the full benefit of a tuned / matched system with good H.P Gains.
 

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@Ordigard do you have any more pics of the rear of the car from further out? Curious how well the tips hug the valence.

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Timely post for me. Been thinking about switching out to this system. I put in a magnaflow resonator to quiet down my headers and while it's nice for when I want it quiet. There are times when I want it loud.

So no trouble with the tunnel figment and getting the provided brace on? I am guessing a bmr brace would fit as well.

Can you give feedback on sound at cruising speeds in highway both open and closed. Thanks.


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Discussion Starter #18
Here are a couple more photos. I'll get some from further back tomorrow.
No issues with tunnel fitment. The brace they supplied was a flat plate with about a 3/4" offset. I will get a photo of it tomorrow. I am thinking of making a stainless brace the same gauge as the OEM one with the offset and flanges for stiffness vs the BMR angles and pipe.
Haven't had a chance to take it out on the road yet. I should be able to tomorrow and let you know how it sounds.
 

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