Great looking and sounding SS, I’m sure it gets lots of attention now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Whipple install - 2016 SS
Good day, I'll be getting my whipple installed the beginning of next month (Aug).
I was going to wait until after install to post but thought it would be best to get any advise beforehand.
So, I'm going with a whipple, stage 2 cam, rotofab, dsx, mgw shifter, kooks to1q stock mufflers. Supporting engine mods (springs,che..etc). Stock whipple kit and injectors.
This is a daily vehicle. I'm not looking to be the best in my state (maybe just on my street or neighborhood...I can live with that..haha).
Any things I should be on the look out for or upgrade ( bigger injectors, different pulleys or anything else that those that went whipple and got the OH I should have done this or that).
Thanks in advance
I was going to wait until after install to post but thought it would be best to get any advise beforehand.
So, I'm going with a whipple, stage 2 cam, rotofab, dsx, mgw shifter, kooks to1q stock mufflers. Supporting engine mods (springs,che..etc). Stock whipple kit and injectors.
This is a daily vehicle. I'm not looking to be the best in my state (maybe just on my street or neighborhood...I can live with that..haha).
Any things I should be on the look out for or upgrade ( bigger injectors, different pulleys or anything else that those that went whipple and got the OH I should have done this or that).
Thanks in advance
41 - 60 of 63 Posts
Definitely, but it gets attention just sitting. When I start it or in traffic, i get asked about it all the timeGreat looking and sounding SS, I’m sure it gets lots of attention now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Might as well do a new slave while you're in there. Smart to do the billet support and speed bleeder too.Monster clutch ordered, since they had a small sale (400 off)
S3-9520-S SSEDAN
Monster S Series Triple Disc Clutch - SS SEDAN - Bleeder: Remote Speed Bleeder
Release Bearing Support: Billet Release Bearing Support
Clutch Fluids: 16 Oz Dot 4, .5ML Red Loctite
My car had the monster with stock master cylinder in it when I bought it. I drove it for a year like that. When I did the motor I had to get a new clutch as the original was in rough shape (hopefully not from my driving! ). My builder talked me into doing the Tick adjustable master cylinder as part of it. I feel it really improved the clutch pedal feel and engagement compared to stock MC. We also separated the brake and clutch hydraulic systems at that time (clutch MC reservoir). I'd highly recommend considering the Tick adjustable MC.
Thank you for the advise. The Monster clutch was in rough shape? Where did you get your new slave from? I've asked my builder about the tick adjustable MC, builder said the stock will do fine. Maybe that is dependent on me as I'm just an enthusiast and wont be hitting the track all the time (as I've never been to one) but probably will it out to see what the car can do.Might as well do a new slave while you're in there. Smart to do the billet support and speed bleeder too.
My car had the monster with stock master cylinder in it when I bought it. I drove it for a year like that. When I did the motor I had to get a new clutch as the original was in rough shape (hopefully not from my driving! ). My builder talked me into doing the Tick adjustable master cylinder as part of it. I feel it really improved the clutch pedal feel and engagement compared to stock MC. We also separated the brake and clutch hydraulic systems at that time (clutch MC reservoir). I'd highly recommend considering the Tick adjustable MC.
The car was from KC, MO and when disassembled the clutch had tons of surface rust on it, presumably from salt on the roads out there. The clutch friction material also looked worse for wear. On the recommendation of my installer we sent it back to monster to have it inspected and rebalanced. Monster recommended a full refurbishment. For only $400 more I opted for a brand new clutch. I think the excessive wear was from the previous owner. I'm pretty easy on the clutch. Additionally, when I got the car the were brakes had a pretty noticeable pulse to them. I drove my first SS for 70k miles on the original rotors and pads with no pulsing and significant pad life left. The signs point to the previous owner driving the car harder than me (at least in my humble opinion).Thank you for the advise. The Monster clutch was in rough shape? Where did you get your new slave from? I've asked my builder about the tick adjustable MC, builder said the stock will do fine. Maybe that is dependent on me as I'm just an enthusiast and wont be hitting the track all the time (as I've never been to one) but probably will it out to see what the car can do.
For the slave we just did a new oem slave cylinder. While you're in there why not go new. You have to drop the tranny (or motor) to get to it, I think.
The stock MC will work fine, but I really felt the Tick was a noticeable upgrade and worth the cost. Just helps ease the clutch out more smoothly which is nice with an aggressive clutch and a cam. It also allowed us to set the perfect peddle height. It kind of addresses the complaints of the stock clutch feel that others have attempted to address with different return springs. The Tick MC isn't a must have but definitely an improvement while you're already in there. Oh, also Tick says it slightly increases peddle effort (not good in my opinion), but I didn't feel it increased it any compared to stock MC and first monster clutch. But then again it was 1.25 years between drives with the different setups so mt perception could have been off.
Thanks again for the insight.The car was from KC, MO and when disassembled the clutch had tons of surface rust on it, presumably from salt on the roads out there. The clutch friction material also looked worse for wear. On the recommendation of my installer we sent it back to monster to have it inspected and rebalanced. Monster recommended a full refurbishment. For only $400 more I opted for a brand new clutch. I think the excessive wear was from the previous owner. I'm pretty easy on the clutch. Additionally, when I got the car the were brakes had a pretty noticeable pulse to them. I drove my first SS on the original rotors and pads with no pulsing and significant pad life left. The signs point to the previous owner driving the car harder than me (at least in my humble opinion).
For the slave we just did a new oem slave cylinder. While you're in there why not go new. You have to drop the tranny (or motor) to get to it, I think.
The stock MC will work fine, but I really felt the Tick was a noticeable upgrade and worth the cost. Just helps ease the clutch out more smoothly which is nice with an aggressive clutch and a cam. It also allowed us to set the perfect peddle height. It kind of addresses the complaints of the stock clutch feel that others have attempted to address with different return springs. The Tick MC isn't a must have but definitely an improvement while you're already in there. Oh, also Tick says it slightly increases peddle effort (not good in my opinion), but I didn't feel it increased it any compared to stock MC and first monster clutch. But then again it was 1.25 years between drives with the different setups so mt perception could have been off.
Our Base Package Includes:
- Clutch Assembly
- Slave Cylinder
- Carbon organic based clutch discs
- 20lbs billet steel flywheel
- Pilot bearing
- Alignment tool
- Hardware
You're all set with the slave then. You'll love the clutch.Thanks again for the insight.
Our Base Package Includes:
- Clutch Assembly
- Slave Cylinder
- Carbon organic based clutch discs
- 20lbs billet steel flywheel
- Pilot bearing
- Alignment tool
- Hardware
Yep, can't wait. Also looking to do a few mine updates soon as I can get more info on the LS7 MAF.You're all set with the slave then. You'll love the clutch.
MAF ls3-LS7 conversion. You will need the MAF (pictured in your post), rewire the current plug and a tube to hold the ls7 MAF.
rewire:
The tube to hold the ls7 maf:
Searched on amazon "ls7 maf tube" there are others.
rewire:
Amazon.com: MAF Sensor Mount Air Flow Sensor Mount Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter Intake Meter Mount for Nissan for Ford MAF Aluminum Alloy : Automotive
Buy MAF Sensor Mount Air Flow Sensor Mount Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter Intake Meter Mount for Nissan for Ford MAF Aluminum Alloy: Mass Air Flow - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Thanks, I've been digging around. How does this sound?MAF ls3-LS7 conversion. You will need the MAF (pictured in your post), rewire the current plug and a tube to hold the ls7 MAF.
rewire:The tube to hold the ls7 maf:
[/URL]
Searched on amazon "ls7 maf tube" there are others.
referenced this video:
Synergy Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Conversion and Extension Harness × 1
Chevy SS to LS7
$35.00
O'Reilly auto - Spectre Performance Mass Air Flow Adapter Part# 9705 Line: SPT - $44.99
MAF Screen - Honeycomb for MAF
6:1 ratio
100mm
$18.20
I would not buy the conversion as it's a repin (move two wires, you have already moved the IAT sensor wires).
Spectre part is more if a universal part with an adaptor to fit the LS7. It will work. I had a custom intake fab'd up at a welding shop.
I didn't use any honeycomb in my intake tube might add it later but it's working fine without it.
Spectre part is more if a universal part with an adaptor to fit the LS7. It will work. I had a custom intake fab'd up at a welding shop.
I didn't use any honeycomb in my intake tube might add it later but it's working fine without it.
Ok, thanksI would not buy the conversion as it's a repin (move two wires, you have already moved the IAT sensor wires).
Spectre part is more if a universal part with an adaptor to fit the LS7. It will work. I had a custom intake fab'd up at a welding shop.
I didn't use any honeycomb in my intake tube might add it later but it's working fine without it.
Wonder if the "science" works out to have one vs not?
HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener. These small additions to any cold air intake, turbo inlet pipe or anywhere a MAF sensor is located, will greatly improve the MAF readings "fuel trims" that the ECU sees. No more erratic MAF readings, fix lean or rich spikes, increase throttle response, fix idle, all of these can be improved
I added the honeycomb to my Synergy intake and the MAF readings at idle became notably more stable. I don't think it makes a lot of difference once there's significant airflow, but it was a visible improvement in the HPTuner logs.
I also used the wiring adapter so that I could bounce back and forth between the stock MAF and the LS7 while I worked on lining out the tune.
I also used the wiring adapter so that I could bounce back and forth between the stock MAF and the LS7 while I worked on lining out the tune.
Thank you for your real world feedback.I added the honeycomb to my Synergy intake and the MAF readings at idle became notably more stable. I don't think it makes a lot of difference once there's significant airflow, but it was a visible improvement in the HPTuner logs.
I also used the wiring adapter so that I could bounce back and forth between the stock MAF and the LS7 while I worked on lining out the tune.
Quick up date. Ordered the PNP frostbite with race valve. Hopefully it ships right out and install is quick.
Install for the frostbite will be this week.
I have a question about the next possible weak link. The diff. Is the 5th gen Camaro SS a direct drop-in replacement? Looks like the zl1 requires trimming the spare wheel well and possibly the diff itself. So, I'm looking at the Camaro SS but not sure what needs to be change inside of it and what the average costs associated with this change will be.
I have a question about the next possible weak link. The diff. Is the 5th gen Camaro SS a direct drop-in replacement? Looks like the zl1 requires trimming the spare wheel well and possibly the diff itself. So, I'm looking at the Camaro SS but not sure what needs to be change inside of it and what the average costs associated with this change will be.
The diff should be drop-in and you can get different ratios based on what model Camaro (except ZL1). The 2 issues with the stock diff are the aluminium caps and worn out clutches. I bought a used Camaro diff with 100k and did the JRE Billet cap mod. There was a difference between bore sizes on each side confirming the bore wear JRE describes. You measure the wear then have the JRE caps machined to correct for it. I also went with a Detroit Truetrac carrier (912A686). It works. I like it. But I don't love it. I get some on/off clunking with the poly bushings (more NVH) due to the backlash (which Eaton says is normal). But I would still recommend the Truetrac. It is a solid upgrade.Install for the frostbite will be this week.
I have a question about the next possible weak link. The diff. Is the 5th gen Camaro SS a direct drop-in replacement? Looks like the zl1 requires trimming the spare wheel well and possibly the diff itself. So, I'm looking at the Camaro SS but not sure what needs to be change inside of it and what the average costs associated with this change will be.
You use to be able to install new clutches with a Ford spring (EOAZ-4214-A) for tighter lockup but I think the clutches (92230606 need two) are discontinued. At least nobody sells them anymore that I can find. Pair the new JRE billet caps, Truetrac, and a LPW cover and you got a pretty solid setup. I did have to grind the LPW cover a little where it fits in the mount. No big deal.
To upgrade from the 8.6 ring gear that was in the V8 Camaros to the ZL1 9.9 is going to require a lot more mods as you mentioned. JRE says the 8.6 with the billet cap mod, Truetrac, and cover is good for 900 HP in an auto.
Also if you are looking used stay away from the V6 Camaros which had the smaller 7.6 ring gear. You want the V8 Auto (3.27) or V8 Manual (3.45). The V8 manuals are much harder to find and command a price premium compared to the more common 3.27.
?The diff should be drop-in and you can get different ratios based on what model Camaro (except ZL1). The 2 issues with the stock diff are the aluminium caps and worn out clutches. I bought a used Camaro diff with 100k and did the JRE Billet cap mod. There was a difference between bore sizes on each side confirming the bore wear JRE describes. You measure the wear then have the JRE caps machined to correct for it. I also went with a Detroit Truetrac carrier (912A686). It works. I like it. But I don't love it. I get some on/off clunking with the poly bushings (more NVH) due to the backlash (which Eaton says is normal). But I would still recommend the Truetrac. It is a solid upgrade.
You use to be able to install new clutches with a Ford spring (EOAZ-4214-A) for tighter lockup but I think the clutches (92230606 need two) are discontinued. At least nobody sells them anymore that I can find. Pair the new JRE billet caps, Truetrac, and a LPW cover and you got a pretty solid setup. I did have to grind the LPW cover a little where it fits in the mount. No big deal.
To upgrade from the 8.6 ring gear that was in the V8 Camaros to the ZL1 9.9 is going to require a lot more mods as you mentioned. JRE says the 8.6 with the billet cap mod, Truetrac, and cover is good for 900 HP in an auto.
Also if you are looking used stay away from the V6 Camaros which had the smaller 7.6 ring gear. You want the V8 Auto (3.27) or V8 Manual (3.45). The V8 manuals are much harder to find and command a price premium compared to the more common 3.27.
Thank you for the info. I'm going to block out ZL1 seems like alot of extra work. Where are people finding Camera diffs? My tuner said he uses Hawks. Going with 3.45 ratio from them is going for 1500, seems expensive but maybe it's worth it?? 1500 for the diff and them upgrade internals?
hawksmotorsports.com/2010-2015-camaro-differential-for-3-27-3-45-3-91-used-gm/
41 - 60 of 63 Posts
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