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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All right guys need your help here on this one I have a 2017 Chevy SS with 26,000 miles and last year I put an LSA on it made 615 to the wheel on e85 with a 2.8 pulley on 7 pounds of boost. After the first time driving the car this year from sitting the whole winter in March, I noticed after driving on highway speeds, when slowing down the car would start to overheat but when I check it with the temp gun the block stays 220-ish the oil temp doesn’t rise and the hoses stay the same temp too. I’ll shut the car off let it cool down take the radiator cap off and add about a third of a gallon of coolant to the radiator and it won’t do it again for the rest of the day. Also the fans are running so I know the fans aren’t the issue. I have since replace the radiator cap, the whole radiator assembly, the coolant temp sensor, and the thermostat, and it still continues. It pushes coolant out of the overflow tank when overheating but I feel as if the motor is actually not overheating. I have had my tuner do a leak down test, compression test and everything is perfectly fine. It seems like the system pushes the coolant out of the radiator into the overflow and doesn’t return it back
 

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That's strange if nothing is blocking your radiator, fans are operating, thermostat is functioning and water pump is pumping. I initially saw 'LSA' and was automatically thinking your supercharger circuit was overheating/dead coolant pump, but you'd just be down on power after timing is pulled and running a little hot. If you maintain highway speeds, it doesn't really overheat? No cooling issues while driving pre-winter or modifications since you installed last year?
 

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Air in system?
Good to add coolant and let it cycle with the cap off to purge air out; this could definitely plug the flow....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's strange if nothing is blocking your radiator, fans are operating, thermostat is functioning and water pump is pumping. I initially saw 'LSA' and was automatically thinking your supercharger circuit was overheating/dead coolant pump, but you'd just be down on power after timing is pulled and running a little hot. If you maintain highway speeds, it doesn't really overheat? No cooling issues while driving pre-winter or modifications since you installed last year?
no it does not overheat on the highway, and will only do this once while driving. I will stop and add coolant (It pukes out some when it goes crazy) then it will be fine the whole rest of the day no matter how hard I drive it. No issues last year since it was installed.. drove it for about a month with the supercharger, then once winter was over this all started to happen. I did notice last night the water pump belt was very glazed and blistered and got a new one, but I can't see that being the issue, unless a bad water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good to add coolant and let it cycle with the cap off to purge air out; this could definitely plug the flow....
I will do that again, but it always starts to expand and spew out the top lol.. makes a mess
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
no it does not overheat on the highway, and will only do this once while driving. I will stop and add coolant (It pukes out some when it goes crazy) then it will be fine the whole rest of the day no matter how hard I drive it. No issues last year since it was installed.. drove it for about a month with the supercharger, then once winter was over this all started to happen. I did notice last night the water pump belt was very glazed and blistered and got a new one, but I can't see that being the issue, unless a bad water pump.
also my IAT's maintain 10-20 above ambient and never gets over 125 so its not my supercharger getting hot
 

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If cooling system has been opened or coolant changed it takes forever in little gulps to get the air out if proper steps were not taken during the refill. Took me several tries to get all the pockets worked out after a coolant change.
My initial symptoms were exactly as you describe. The SS seems to be very sensitive to coolant level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If cooling system has been opened or coolant changed it takes forever in little gulps to get the air out if proper steps were not taken during the refill. Took me several tries to get all the pockets worked out after a coolant change.
My initial symptoms were exactly as you describe. The SS seems to be very sensitive to coolant level.
best way to get them out?
 

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Pressure/vacuum fill from the bottom up would be best I guess, but I didn't have access to the equipment.
I just kept checking it regularly after driving, once cooled down, and finally got it full. Took almost a gallon total.
 

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If coolant is puking out into overflow, it's actually getting hot. When you replaced the belt, did you turn the water pump by hand to see how it felt? I too suspect air bubbles, but the water pump runs a close second if the belt was damaged with so few miles.
 

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no it does not overheat on the highway, and will only do this once while driving. I will stop and add coolant (It pukes out some when it goes crazy) then it will be fine the whole rest of the day no matter how hard I drive it. No issues last year since it was installed.. drove it for about a month with the supercharger, then once winter was over this all started to happen. I did notice last night the water pump belt was very glazed and blistered and got a new one, but I can't see that being the issue, unless a bad water pump.
Interesting. I doubt air trapped in system if you switched out radiator, thermostat etc and properly burped it. Could be though. However, water pump could be going out, release belt tension and spin water pump pulley by hand and listen/feel for grinding or excess resistance, or maybe even excess play in shaft as you try to wiggle the pulley. Also, could belt be slipping on water pump pulley due to tensioner issues? I’m Not familiar with belt/tensioner changes with LSA.
 

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If memory serves, several years back there was a similar post on a non-supercharged SS and it was the upper, lower, or maybe both radiator hoses collapsing when hot and under pressure.

As for bleeding the cooling system. Here's what I did on wife's Suburban as I don't have pressurizing tools either. Remove radiator cap, jack front end up as high as you can and put on solid jack stands, start engine, turn heater on HI, then let run till t-stat opens. On her Burb it belched out a huge air bubble from the heater core then all was good.
 

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yep drive on ramps or front end up high was what i was going to say also.
 

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If memory serves, several years back there was a similar post on a non-supercharged SS and it was the upper, lower, or maybe both radiator hoses collapsing when hot and under pressure.

As for bleeding the cooling system. Here's what I did on wife's Suburban as I don't have pressurizing tools either. Remove radiator cap, jack front end up as high as you can and put on solid jack stands, start engine, turn heater on HI, then let run till t-stat opens. On her Burb it belched out a huge air bubble from the heater core then all was good.
This. Key part is running the Heat on High to circulate the coolant through heater core as well. I recently replaced my water pump and all main pulleys tracking down a chirping/squeaking noise and my cooling system didn’t burp properly until I ran the heater for a couple of minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
If coolant is puking out into overflow, it's actually getting hot. When you replaced the belt, did you turn the water pump by hand to see how it felt? I too suspect air bubbles, but the water pump runs a close second if the belt was damaged with so few miles.
yes I turned it by hand and it felt pretty normal, no huge concerns, had a tiny amount of play but we are talking tiny amount.
Its almost like it doesn't suck coolant back into the radiator and it overheats due to the loss of coolant
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Interesting. I doubt air trapped in system if you switched out radiator, thermostat etc and properly burped it. Could be though. However, water pump could be going out, release belt tension and spin water pump pulley by hand and listen/feel for grinding or excess resistance, or maybe even excess play in shaft as you try to wiggle the pulley. Also, could belt be slipping on water pump pulley due to tensioner issues? I’m Not familiar with belt/tensioner changes with LSA.
its the factory system with the lsa, no changes in accesory belt dirive
 

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Ok so to eliminate the air in the system I would drain it and get the vacuum coolant replacement tool. Uses compressed air to create vacuum and syphons out any excess coolant. Bring the vacuum as far down as it can go and make sure it holds. Wait like 20 mins to make sure the needle doesn’t move. Then put the fill hose in a bucket with all fresh either mix or your own mix of 50/50 then open the valve slowly and let it suck in all the fresh coolant.

This is exactly how I filled both the supercharger side and engine side. No issues with filling the engine/supercharger down at all.

Tool used: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-244...ill+kit&qid=1619462067&sprefix=coolant&sr=8-3
 

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Look and see if your hoses are collapsed after it has cooled down (like in the morning after a drive the night before) and you have not opened the system. If so, they may need replaced but could be the radiator cap or an overflow hose problem. I have seen the overflow hose seal to the bottom of the puke tank and not draw the overflow back in to the system as it cools. Also make sure the overflow hose is fully inserted to NEAR the bottom of the puke tank so it will suck the coolant back into the system and not air, (not touching the bottom to prevent the mentioned situation) and has no holes or splits in it inside the tank.
 

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You can also insert the springs that will help prevent collapse.

Had this happen on two of my turbo cars. One also had a cap from a different location wit hdifferent pressure.
 
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