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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know of an upgrade we can use on our cars? Will a V or Zl1 work? Or is there an Aussie version with more amps?
 

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The PPV alternator 92258220 is 170a, vs the 150amp SS(not sure though). Or call one of the following companies see if they have anything or maybe can have your upgraded :powerbastards, Velocityalternator, Custom Electric in Independence, singer alternators, iraggialternator, Ohio Generator, DC Power Engineering, Mechman alternators, and Tenney. Wiring will also need upgrading...

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Alternator Upgrade

Anyone know of an upgrade we can use on our cars? Will a V or Zl1 work? Or is there an Aussie version with more amps?
Not to pick your words apart, but without a reason for the upgrade, the replies may be a bit general because the reasons to upgrade an alternator have a few variables and different applications. That said, here are a few things that I found to consider when upgrading an alternator. Hope I'm not too far off the reason.


1) To improve/upgrade the charging system of your SS, IN GERERAL.
2) To improve your SS charging system because you run your head lights, DRL, radio, AC, laptop, charge a lot of stuff, all while parked for "long periods of time."

My Reply to #1 and #2) a general reply.
To improve the SS charging system in general, simply because you want to improve it...

Then, as g8eraid listed in his post, "The PPV alternator 92258220 is 170a" and will work in our SS, and will be an improvement over the SS OEM (140a) alternator, which is a (30a) increase. Thirty 30amps more is not much but it is still an improvement over the stock SS alternator.

The PPV (92258220) alternator may apply to #2 above also, because the (PPV 170a) alternator is a Police Patrol Vehicle, and as you know, is designed for a car that will run lots of lights, two-way radios, vehicle laptops, all while parked idle for long periods of time, at (600) low RPMs. While parked and running off the alternator but still needing lots of Amps...

Considering that the PPV is an "Aussie version" the (92258220) alternator's CASING and BRACKET will mount to the 2014-2017 SS without issues.

Speaking of the casing and bracket:
This is why the V, or the ZL1 alternator will/may not fit the SS Sedan.


3) Upgrade because you've added a "high powered" audio Amp...

My reply to #3) another general reply.

If you are looking for a 240 to 320 amp alternators... because you have added an Amp and/or a Subwoofer to your SS. Then this is what I found about upgrading the SS alternator beyond the OEM 140a:

2014-17 SS Sedan alternator is (140a)
2013-...PPV is (170a)




I checked with Mechman Alternators on about October 2017.
Here is a brief email exchange between Mechman Alternators and me. I put the date there so you will know that I checked about six months ago. Meaning, he may have now started building/making an alternator for the SS.

I wrote:
... 240amp alternator for the 2014-17 SS...

Mechman Alternators replied:
"...I’m sorry but I do not build anything direct fit for that application. It’s got that Holden design alternator and I do not build anything for it.
Thanks for checking,"

I wrote:
...Thanks...I discovered while looking for an alternator for a 2014 Chevy SS.
The 2014-17 Chevy SS Sedan uses the same alternator as the 2014-2017 Chevy Caprice.

I also found that the stock Caprice's alternator is 170 Amp while the stock Chevy SS alternator is only 140 Amp. But my point is, the Chevy Caprice and the Chevy SS Sedan uses the same alternator.

Again, Thanks for checking.

Mechman Alternators replied:
Yes sir it is the same it has a different stator and rotor combo fiving it more power, but I still can't build anything for it.

Thanks





I then contacted Michael Singer with Singer Alternators about a 240-320amp alternator:
Welcome to Singer Alternators | Singer Alternators
He said he could build an alternator for our SS.


The average price found with most venders for a high-amp alternator started around $500.00 and up.
I'm still running my 2014 OEM stock alternator...:thumbsUp:


Hope this helps.
 

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72SBC can you tell us why you want it? Just curious. Police generators deliver a lot of current at idle and I believe they have smaller pullies which put a higher parasitic load on the engine.

I think AGM batteries have a different charging strategy than the old flooded ones. I tried to research it one day but didn’t get anywhere. I hope whatever you get doesn’t upset that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The reason I want to upgrade is because I have 3 fans running constantly with a IC pump always running, I have a lot of draw on my system. I upgraded my battery to a stronger unit and that helps on my start ups but the amps when driving are usually around 12.3-12.4. Every other that I’ve seen (about 10) is around 13-14 amps idling and driving around. Only difference is I have the added fans and pump running so I’m thinking it’s just taxing the system too much.
 

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the amps when driving are usually around 12.3-12.4. Every other that I’ve seen (about 10) is around 13-14 amps idling
How are your measuring amps? The numbers you list look like voltage readings. If the DIC is reading 12.3-12.4 volts, thats normal if the battery is more than 80% charged and ambient temps are reasonably warm. It means the battery is not being charged. It will automatically resume charging when the ambient temp drops or the system detects the battery is below 80% charged.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmmmm. I know I have a lot of draw when I go to start the car but the new battery helped a lot. I had a volt/amp reader hooked up when I was trying to see how much draw I had when I was installing the LSA. I’ll monitor again and see. Glad to see the PPV has more amps though if I truly need it.
 

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Hmmmm. I know I have a lot of draw when I go to start the car but the new battery helped a lot. I had a volt/amp reader hooked up when I was trying to see how much draw I had when I was installing the LSA. I’ll monitor again and see. Glad to see the PPV has more amps though if I truly need it.

I’m curious - what are you using for an upgraded battery?

I’m still nursing the original battery along in my ‘14. I’m not too impressed with the OEM battery and if there’s an upgrade available I’m interested.

Thanks.
 

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The Big 3 Upgrade

Hmmmm. I know I have a lot of draw when I go to start the car but the new battery helped a lot. I had a volt/amp reader hooked up when I was trying to see how much draw I had when I was installing the LSA. I’ll monitor again and see. Glad to see the PPV has more amps though if I truly need it.
Why not do The Big 3 Upgrade first, then see what happens with your voltage.
I did The Big 3 Upgrade and my average voltage went from around (12.9) to (14.2 - 15.1) volts.


In the Big 3 Video, he talks about upgrading cables.

#1) The ALTERNATOR CHARGING CABLE, from the alternator to the battery positive.

For the SS, the battery positive is that HOT POST under the hood, under that red plastic cover on the driver side, not too far from the alternator.

#2) The BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE from the trunk battery to the trunk chassis ground.

#3) The ENGINE BLOCK GROUND CABLE from the engine to under hood chassis ground.
For the SS, that would be that chassis ground cable under the hood near the fuse box cover, which runs to the engine block.


For #1, the (ALTERNATOR CHARGING CABLE) from ALTERNATOR to the BATTERY, and #3 the (ENGINE BLOCK GROUND CABLE) from the ENGINE BLOCK to the chassis ground, I did not remove any of the SS OEM cables,
I only added to them, now there are two cables each.



I used 1/0 size cables for all of The Big 3 upgrades.

At idle I use to see volts around (12.0 to 13.5) while playing bass with two-thirds volume "testing my voltage system."

After doing The Big 3 Upgrade, I now see volts around (14.2 to 15.1). Even at idle with my audio turned up (two-thirds) and bass notes hitting. In other words, it takes voltage to turn audio bass up. During The Big 3 helped stabilized my voltage drops.

Now the only time I see voltages below (12.5) is if I turn the SS Head Unit volume all the way up and wait for a hard-hitting bass note. I have to be watching because when the voltage drops from 14.8 volts to around 12.5 volts, it quickly returns to around 14+ volts.

End note:
I am still watching my voltage here and there trying to decide if I want to upgrade from the SS OEM alternator or not, but the voltage seems to be okay, averaging around 14.7 volts (with the SS OEM alternator and The Big 3 Upgrade.)

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I’ll look into adding another ground, I already moved the main engine block ground, and added another ground by the terminal post. I’ll add another on the battery. Thanks!
 

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How are your measuring amps? The numbers you list look like voltage readings. If the DIC is reading 12.3-12.4 volts, thats normal if the battery is more than 80% charged and ambient temps are reasonably warm. It means the battery is not being charged. It will automatically resume charging when the ambient temp drops or the system detects the battery is below 80% charged.
yes

No most of the time. 12.9 is maintain; less is discharge; more is charge. Read the charging system operation 4 page doc I posted so many times I ain't gonna repost it again.
 

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I can bet if your running a remote hx tank w/ a bilge pump and also a secondary fuel pump or BAP would def put a strain on stock electrical setup.
 

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The 'big three' as they call it is a worthwhile upgrade and the first upgrade when doing a big stereo system.
Looking at the voltage reading on the dic cannot tell you if there was a improvement because that fluctuates with the charge state of the battery.
Op, in your case, with the options available it seems like the 'big three' and a ppv alternator is the option available.
I don't believe a HX pump and fuel pump plus some in car electronics are more taxing than what the law enforcement cruisers have installed (radio equipment, computer equipment, speed measuring equipment, gps, a bazzilon lights and more)
 

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Based on what nothing and CB wrote, the fact that SSLogic is now seeing average higher voltage levels well above the “maintain” level of 12.3-12.9 volts fairly consistently leads me to believe his charging system is now working harder to maintain the battery and voltage across the electrical system. Or is this only when you have the audio cranked? If not, it sounds completely backwards to me.


2016 SSB, stick, hole, spare
 
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Your logic is correct copacetc1
I was wondering if his vehicle has been unused for a while or several short trips.
It definitely seems his charging system is in the 'charging' state.
Even with a higher current alternator, bigger battery and better wires the system should still reach a maintain state and be in the 12-13v range.

This is different because our cars use a Holden design alternator but I must say GM alternators have been very good to me. Back in the day, the go to alternator was a GM alternator on DSM's making big power. I ran GM alternators on most of my setups for consistency. At the higher power levels, the fuel and ignition systems put a large taxing on the Mitsubishi alternator and it's regulator. When I was running twin Bosch 044 pumps filling -10 lines and 2200cc injectors the GM alternator allowed me to have consistent voltage and that greatly effected the way I tuned the car.
 

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I see 12.5 volts in the DIC sometimes

Your logic is correct copacetc1
I was wondering if his vehicle has been unused for a while or several short trips.
It definitely seems his charging system is in the 'charging' state.
Even with a higher current alternator, bigger battery and better wires the system should still reach a maintain state and be in the 12-13v range...
Based on what nothing and CB wrote, the fact that SSLogic is now seeing average higher voltage levels well above the “maintain” level of 12.3-12.9 volts fairly consistently leads me to believe his charging system is now working harder to maintain the battery and voltage across the electrical system. Or is this only when you have the audio cranked? If not, it sounds completely backwards to me.
2016 SSB, stick, hole, spare
If post #6 and #11 are true, and no reason to believe they are not...

One day I was driving and notice that my SS DIC volts were reading 12.5, this has happened many times.
The very first time it happened I pulled over into a parking lot, turned the SS off, popped the trunk, turned my battery disconnect switch to OFF then back ON again, restarted my SS, and my SS DIC volts returned to 14.7. Therefore, my charging system seems to be working normal.

Another time I continued driving with 12.5 volts displayed on my DIC and notice about 30-minutes later that my DIC volts returned to 14.7 by itself. Again, considering post #6 and #11 are both true, then this seems normal.

I'll admit, the very first time I saw 12.5 on the DIC before doing, "The Big 3 Upgrade" I thought that the alternator was not charging and may need replacing.

For test purposes:
The next time I see 12.5 volts displayed in the DIC, I'll keep driving, and wait and see how long it takes the DIC display to return to 14-15.1 volts by itself.



Sorry for the general information:
However, I'm trying not to stray too far off subject, "upgraded alternator" and not go too far into my personal charging system setup, which may be beyond the scope of an alternator thread. Which is why my replies are general.
My initial recommendations were to, do The Big 3 Upgrade, or go with the PPV alternator for starters, before spending money on a $500+ High-Amp alternator.



But at the same time, trying to be helpful.
Therefore, here is some more general information to help better understand my charging system so your questions are...


Stock SS 140amp alternator
Did the Big 3 Upgrade with 1/0 size cable
SX Power Battery Max amp 3300 CA-1000
600 watt and 750 watt mono Amps
Digital LOC for Amps
Two 8" Subs
Cabin switched, Transmission Electric Cooling Fan
Five different volt meters, reading volts in real-time
And more...


Perhaps this will help explain why my SS volts may not be reading as some other SS, but still within specs.
Hence the reason why I was looking into upgrading my alternator, until I did the big 3 upgrade.
However, I'm still keeping an eye on my charging system daily, to see if I'm going to need, or do an alternator upgrade.


My objective is to give enough information so the next SS will benefit....:thumbsUp:
 

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Why not just do a PPV factory aux battery ????

Hook up the sound to it.
 

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Consider Trunk Weight when adding a Second Battery

I may end up adding a second dedicated battery in the trunk to run my audio from, but thus far,
the stock SS alternator seems to be working fine, averaging 14.7 volts in the winter.

However, the main reason I don't want to add a second dedicated battery in my trunk is
Weight! I hate adding more weight to my SS, even 1lb.



My OCD with trunk weight.:laugh
To name a few things in my trunk which are very common items in a vehicle's trunk.

Jumper Cables =6.lbs Extinguisher x2 =9.lbs
Amp x2 =13.lbs Sub 8" x2 =34.lbs
Car Wash Bag =10.lbs Gym/Bug Out Bag =11.lbs
Other Weights:
Upgraded from 2014 SS Mufflers (16.4lbs) to 2016 SS Mufflers (20lbs)
6.lbs more added.
Upgraded from 2014 SS OEM spare tire (47lbs) to a (20x10 black matching spare (49lbs)
2.lbs more added.
Upgraded from 2014 SS OEM Battery (45.lbs) to SX Power Battery (47.lbs)
2.lbs more added.

I did consider using a second dedicated battery, but with a second battery comes about
45.lbs more trunk weight, then a battery isolator between to two batteries, which may total about
50.lbs more added trunk weight.


Although this post may seem comical, it does to me, it's still true.
True and thread relevant because, I really do not want to add any extra weight to my SS.

Instead, I'd rather replace/upgrade the alternator, weight in and weight out, therefore no extra weight added.
However, a second battery is not out of the question, only my third choice.:thumbsUp:

PS. I did a resonator delete and removed 10lbs from my SS, yes, I weighed it.
OP, Sorry if I strayed, but the weight of a second battery vs. an "upgraded alternator" is something to consider, especially if supercharged, and I hope to be someday.
 
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