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Fully agree with BOLDED type.

Not being familiar with how its put together, MY MONEY is
#1 on the CONNECTORS or cables,
#2 on actuator.
#3 both + fuse

In all electronics I have ever dealed with, cables and connectors are always at the top of fails, always.


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Being an engineer, there is short somewhere. Likely in the actuator solenoid or a relay. If the fuse didn't blow, probably downstream of the fuse and the failure didnt cause an over current draw (so the fail safe being in the off direction).

Hasnt happened to be but I've have the camera and radio malfunction (not turn on) because of a loose connection. So I wouldn't rule that out either.
 
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Nothing to debate here. First sentence was snarky. That's my position. Yours is different. I can live with that and accept it. Perhaps you can as well.
FWIW, "Thanks for that" doesn't even move the needle on my snarkometer.
 

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Just wondering if anyone had experienced the trunk not opening when you use the button on the remote or the button on the door. It will still open if you pull the yellow handle behind the backseat pass through. My car is a 17 with 29000 miles.
Me, just like you twice in 2 yrs since new. Hasn’t happened again, ‘16 with 18k miles.
 

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Being an engineer, there is short somewhere. Likely in the actuator solenoid or a relay. If the fuse didn't blow, probably downstream of the fuse and the failure didnt cause an over current draw (so the fail safe being in the off direction).

Hasnt happened to me but I've have the camera and radio malfunction (not turn on) because of a loose connection. So I wouldn't rule that out either.
In addition to shorts, an overload can also blow a fuse. But don't know how releasing a trunk to open can overload.
I overloaded a power-closing trunk; had left cell phone in the way and stood there watching it crunch the phone with no way to stop it - fuse blew, it stopped - a bit late for the phone.

With time, we should expect many such wiring/connector issues - E-ghosts I call them.
Most cars seem to have some at some point.

.
 

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Experienced the same problem on my 16, dealer replaced the complete driver door switch assembly this happened at 16k miles.
How often did the trunk not open? I’ve had it happen only a couple of times on my ‘16 since new.

........Tried sending a PM, check the south section with a thread by me about a cruise this weekend. Can’t send you a PM
 

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When I first got the car sometimes the trunk would not open when I was in the driver seat pushing the button. Then I realized that if the engine is running the parking brake must be applied for the trunk to operate on a stick shift car. But I'm guessing you already know that. It was funny once I realized.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
My car has an auto and it wouldn’t open with the car off or on, even with trans in park. Dealer said they were ordering a trunk switch Tuesday. It looks like it will be sleeping at the dealer over the weekend.
 

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Hope they get you fixed up. Please let us know the outcome.
 

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I was having this same problem off and on til recently. Now its pretty much all the time. I’ve got a ‘17 with around 25k miles. Guess a trip to dealer is in order
 

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I am having the same issues now too. Trunk button on the driver side door does not work. Using the trunk open button on the keyfob doesnt work either. I checked the trunk release fuse and its fine. Any one have a part# for the trunk actuator? I am out of warranty so I prefer not to take to the dealer.


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Looking at this.
My '17 started acting about 2 weeks ago.
The trunk latch stopped catching the hook in the trunk lid when fully closed.
Following along here I see the actuator GM part number here posted.

---->Does the electric switch come with the actuator assembly?<------

I see the wire clip going into it.
(Cable is a separate thing)

Got the rear cover panel off.
Looks relatively easy to replace.



Received the new actuator today. Just finished installing it and now the trunk is working as normal again. Thank you for all the info on this thread!


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Discussion Starter #39
One thing I am remembering about mine was that right before the trunk quit opening the trunk lid was harder to close. By this I mean it was almost like you had to slam it to get it to catch. Just putting this out there in case anyone starts experiencing this symptom.
 

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I experienced the very same condition as well.

With the new latch installed, I attempted to install in the same height location as the original, but it seems to want to be closed with more force than before.
I am thinking of raising the latch up about maybe .25”.

Might be all I need to get it to catch with less force.
 
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