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Did some runs on the same Mustang dyno before and after I installed the Roto Fab/Livernois combo. The results were not favorable compared to what others are getting. Was expecting a bigger increase then 24 hp/20 tq to the wheels. The car is running a bit rich at 11.7, which probably explains the results. Have contacted Livernois and waiting to hear back.
 

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You got 372 HP and 379 Tq to the rear wheels on a Mustang Dyno and are upset????:S-A-Smack:
I had a 2012 SS Camaro (LS3) manual car lay down 386 RWHP with a Cold air, ported throttle body, and ARH LT headers without cats on a Mustang Dyno. These cars are dynoing STRONG for automatic LS3 cars with just a cold air and a tune. I am waiting to get my hands on mine and I will post my results. I think my tuner shop's DYNO reads LOW....which is ok by me....even more down-played when I tell people how much power I (don't) make.:wink:
 

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I am not upset about 372 independently, that's very respectable. The problem is several people have posted a 40+ increase with the exact same setup. Having 40% less increase is not what I expected.
 

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Not only was my Dyno results 42hp and 40tq on a Dynojet.

I also took the car to the track on last Saturday and ran a [email protected] I'd say that is right where it should be for a tune and CAI. Dyno #s are cool for Tuning and all. The real #s are the one you put down at the track!
 

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Not only was my Dyno results 42hp and 40tq on a Dynojet.

I also took the car to the track on last Saturday and ran a [email protected] I'd say that is right where it should be for a tune and CAI. Dyno #s are cool for Tuning and all. The real 3s are the one you put down at the track!
Agreed, Dynamometers are great for tuning and measuring your penis size. The track will tell you.
 

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Agreed, Dynamometers are great for tuning and measuring your penis size. The track will tell you.
Everytime I try to measure my penis on a dyno I get roadrash.


...instructions unclear, penis stuck in dyno.
 

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Everytime I try to measure my penis on a dyno I get roadrash.......
That means your penis is really small......or so I've been told :dry: .

KW
 

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Did some runs on the same Mustang dyno before and after I installed the Roto Fab/Livernois combo. The results were not favorable compared to what others are getting. Was expecting a bigger increase then 24 hp/20 tq to the wheels. The car is running a bit rich at 11.7, which probably explains the results. Have contacted Livernois and waiting to hear back.
There are many factors to consider on dyno results. Here are just some of them. Was this dyon'd the same day? on the same dyno without removing the car? Mustang Dyno's are notoriously inaccurate because every data item has to be input manually which leaves much room for user error. Another note is where was the wideband located? This can impact how it reads. What type of fuel was the wideband calibrated for? using a/f ratios are very inaccurate for tuning as optimal a/f ratios vary based on chemical composure of the fuel. The optimal A/F of 100% gasoline will be different than E5 E10 or E15, and have other varying factors impacting this but placement of the o2 can have a profound impact on reading.

Another question is do you have 91 octane, or 93? We ahve 93 in our area so all the gains we advertise are for 93, with 91 being slightly less. We do see a similar delta typically, but the conditions of the baseline can play a huge part in numers as well. What was coolant temp? oil temp? intake air temp? All of these can effect the results. We make certain we do our best to show a true apples to apples comparison on our dyno results, making certain it's within a certain acceptable window of variance. This is why many times we don't post our best results as they may be skewed due to slightly lower temp readings.
 

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There are many factors to consider on dyno results. Here are just some of them. Was this dyon'd the same day? on the same dyno without removing the car? Mustang Dyno's are notoriously inaccurate because every data item has to be input manually which leaves much room for user error. Another note is where was the wideband located? This can impact how it reads. What type of fuel was the wideband calibrated for? using a/f ratios are very inaccurate for tuning as optimal a/f ratios vary based on chemical composure of the fuel. The optimal A/F of 100% gasoline will be different than E5 E10 or E15, and have other varying factors impacting this but placement of the o2 can have a profound impact on reading.

Another question is do you have 91 octane, or 93? We ahve 93 in our area so all the gains we advertise are for 93, with 91 being slightly less. We do see a similar delta typically, but the conditions of the baseline can play a huge part in numers as well. What was coolant temp? oil temp? intake air temp? All of these can effect the results. We make certain we do our best to show a true apples to apples comparison on our dyno results, making certain it's within a certain acceptable window of variance. This is why many times we don't post our best results as they may be skewed due to slightly lower temp readings.
WERD to yo mother.
I'm still shocked to see such huge gains with a cold air and a tune. 20 numbers to the tire is awesome. 40 numbers to the tire is usually what blower cars (LSA) motors pick up.
 
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WERD to yo mother.
I'm still shocked to see such huge gains with a cold air and a tune. 20 numbers to the tire is awesome. 40 numbers to the tire is usually what blower cars (LSA) motors pick up.

Just my opinion here, I think most of it has to do with all of the restrictions that GM put into the car. The Same LS3 engine in a Camaro is what? 425hp? Our SS is only 415? Same as the Corvette LS3 in 2008 ans it was rated at 430hp?

I believe that the CAI it good for its 10-12hp and most of the rest is Livernois removing and fine tuning the restrictions placed on our factory engine tune settings.

Doing the math from the Crank HP less 17% drive-train loss equaled my 342hp to the wheels.

Doing the math in reverse after the 385rwhp it would be closer to 465hp at the Crank now after wards. That to me is what the LS3 should be at with a Cold Air Intake and a Performance tune regardless of what the LS3 is in.

The track is truly where it is at. ET and mph are the numbers to worry about in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There are many factors to consider on dyno results. Here are just some of them. Was this dyon'd the same day? on the same dyno without removing the car? Mustang Dyno's are notoriously inaccurate because every data item has to be input manually which leaves much room for user error. Another note is where was the wideband located? This can impact how it reads. What type of fuel was the wideband calibrated for? using a/f ratios are very inaccurate for tuning as optimal a/f ratios vary based on chemical composure of the fuel. The optimal A/F of 100% gasoline will be different than E5 E10 or E15, and have other varying factors impacting this but placement of the o2 can have a profound impact on reading.

Another question is do you have 91 octane, or 93? We ahve 93 in our area so all the gains we advertise are for 93, with 91 being slightly less. We do see a similar delta typically, but the conditions of the baseline can play a huge part in numers as well. What was coolant temp? oil temp? intake air temp? All of these can effect the results. We make certain we do our best to show a true apples to apples comparison on our dyno results, making certain it's within a certain acceptable window of variance. This is why many times we don't post our best results as they may be skewed due to slightly lower temp readings.

The car was not on the dyno the same day. The A/F test was taken from the exhaust, which I understand is not the most accurate. The temperatures were the same. We use 93 octane here.

I have encountered a few other weird things since this setup. The car has stalled on me twice. Once making a right at a stop sign, the other going from reverse to drive. Also a few times when going in reverse the car started sounding like it had a mean cam and almost stalling out.

Other then these few instances the car has been running great. Regardless of numbers, definitely feels stronger then stock.
 

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The car was not on the dyno the same day. The A/F test was taken from the exhaust, which I understand is not the most accurate. The temperatures were the same. We use 93 octane here.

I have encountered a few other weird things since this setup. The car has stalled on me twice. Once making a right at a stop sign, the other going from reverse to drive. Also a few times when going in reverse the car started sounding like it had a mean cam and almost stalling out.

Other then these few instances the car has been running great. Regardless of numbers, definitely feels stronger then stock.
I think our tuning department asked these via email already, but it sounds like there is a leak somewhere. We don't do anything with idle in the calibration, so it should run exactly like stock, unless there is a mechanical cause for it, so if there is a loose tube, clamp, cracked tube, or something along these lines it could cause both the rich condition and the poor running condition. I would double check the install of the intake and go from there.
 
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