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Recommended Mechanic In Cedar Park TX?

713 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  fincherific
They say timing is everything, if that's the case, the timing for me couldn't have gone any worse.... I posted my SS for sale last week after purchasing a new car. Promptly got into a minor fender bender, which was repaired with insurance (front passenger area needed fender repair and new suspension links). After repairs were complete, I drove the car back home, and get a "low oil pressure" light on the dash while pulling into my garage. Had it towed back to the repair shop, where they informed me today that the engine needs to be replaced(?!?!), and worse, Progressive doesn't think it pertains to my claim.

So, I'm free to get a second opinion, which I absolutely will be doing. However, I am at a loss for a place to take it to, I've literally not needed a mechanic in years. I've used Sun Auto in the past for fluid changes, but it's been a few years.

Does anyone have a recommendation in the Cedar Park TX area of a place I can get it towed to, for a second opinion on the diagnoses, and whether or not the accident contributed to the oil pressure issue? I also wonder if the repair shop's work (or tow) contributed to the problem. I put 10 miles on the car after picking it up from the shop before I recvd the oil pressure warning, that cannot be a coincidence, especially with no previous issues mechanically with this car.

Appreciate any recommendations!
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The ONLY place in Austin to take this is,,,,,


They have knowledge on these cars that you wont find anywhere else in the area!! DO NOT TAKE IT TO A DEALER!!! Let them diagnose this!! I will bet dollars to donuts that the techs that worked on your car,,, did DONUTS WITH IT!!! LOTSA DONUTS!! This has happened before round here, (and elsewhere too,,, just search Google on the topic!!)!!!

You have my number, you are invited to use it if you need to talk about this!!

ES
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What was their diagnosis that the "engine needs replacing" and the failed parts that are not replaceable and requires you to need a "engine replacing"? I would hope you got some more professional explanation/paper breakdown.
Was their fluid on the ground after the accident? Like broke oil line and after repair shop "fixed" everthing started up and a time later realized no oil? Just a example.
What was their diagnosis that the "engine needs replacing" and the failed parts that are not replaceable and requires you to need a "engine replacing"? I would hope you got some more professional explanation/paper breakdown.
Agreed, awaiting those details. I'm going to have it towed somewhere else. I reached out to the place Mr Sindon recommended above. Will post anything noteworthy as I learn more.
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I use Aikman. They don't really answer the phone most times and have a month backlog for maintenance right now but it's the best gm shop in the area. I don't mind waiting knowing the work gets done competently. That being said send them an email if you can't get em on the phone.
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Update:

Today I visited Rush Automotive, the shop that the body shop uses who told me it "needs new engine". They said they would have to remove the engine for more specific diagnosis, so all I have detail wise so far is there is zero oil pressure.

Aikman Performance was pretty responsive to my inquiry and I had the car towed to their place today. They won't be able to look at it until next week but when I saw another SS out front, I immediately felt a sense of relief. Just verbally chit chatting with them, one theory is perhaps an oil line got pinched during the repair. I'm eagerly awaiting the verdict for sure, and am anticipating not an easy process to appeal with Progressive regarding the claim.

Appreciate the recommendation!
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Photos photos photos for the insurance company…….and the fourm!
I use Aikman. They don't really answer the phone most times and have a month backlog for maintenance right now but it's the best gm shop in the area. I don't mind waiting knowing the work gets done competently. That being said send them an email if you can't get em on the phone.
Sounds like a good shop to me!
UPDATE: They started looking at it this week: determined it's not related to the fender bender or subsequent repair, just crummy timing (dammit!).

Excuse my lack of detailed engine workings so I will not attempt to regurgitate all the details they just told me, but they didn't see any metal in the oil they drained and will now be dropping the pan to get a deeper look. He said it might just need a new Oring, or could need a new oil pump, and possibly more depending on damage done. UGH

However, I get the sense they know what they're doing at least.
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Hope its not just a oil pressure sensor, have heard of a few on here that have had that issue
Update: they found metal in the oil pan. I'm going to butcher some of these details, but they said there were needles from the trunnion rocker intake valves all driver's side(?). So, they now need to pull the engine and go from there. Trending toward a mostly new engine or complete rebuild depending on what their engine builder sees in the block/cylinder walls.

Question for the group: do I proceed with paying a sizable chunk of $ to fix the engine (approaching $10k just to pull the motor and do the work they've already identified at this point, pending whatever else there is), or attempt to cut my losses and sell the car for what I can get for it as is?

New territory for me.
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This is a total and complete rebuild at this point!!! Let them build it!!! Do not skimp!! Trunnions are a known issue on LS's and the fix is usually the CHE Brass bushings or the "Caged" Trunnions from BTR, Comp,,,,, !! Magnetic drain plugs from the Vette is one of the first things I did on mine just because of this sort of issue!!!

10K is not bad under the circumstances as by your admission,, you do not turn your own wrenches!! A different situation for some who do their own labor!! Parts and machine costs are around 5-6 k ish,,, give or take!!

Good Luck!!

ES
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This is a total and complete rebuild at this point!!! Let them build it!!! Do not skimp!! Trunnions are a known issue on LS's and the fix is usually the CHE Brass bushings or the "Caged" Trunnions from BTR, Comp,,,,, !! Magnetic drain plugs from the Vette is one of the first things I did on mine just because of this sort of issue!!!

10K is not bad under the circumstances as by your admission,, you do not turn your own wrenches!! A different situation for some who do their own labor!! Parts and machine costs are around 5-6 k ish,,, give or take!!

Good Luck!!

ES
To be exact, coming out to $12.5k after tax. Appreciate the sanity check, I suppose I'll press forward with this rebuild. Trying to envision how to explain all this when I go to sell it eventually, I guess I have time to mull that over!
up to you whats the value with bad motor? 18-22k?? with new motor and mileage of car 28-32K?
12.5K to me seems like alot for "repair"
5500 with quick search for long block LS3, few hundred more for parts if wanted to upgrade valve springs and trunnions, few hundred for new gaskets and fluids so 6K, i'm sure doesn't take 6500 in labor.
I personally would NOT rebuild but get new oem motor, i'm sure someone here could tell you the book labor hours for engine change, my guess is 15-18 hours max @ 150 a hour labor is 2700 labor.
rebuild will be a lot of disassembly and reassembly with some new parts depending on what is found when tore down which could put you cheaper or more and more and more expensive.

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up to you whats the value with bad motor? 18-22k?? with new motor and mileage of car 28-32K?
12.5K to me seems like alot for "repair"
5500 with quick search for long block LS3, few hundred more for parts if wanted to upgrade valve springs and trunnions, few hundred for new gaskets and fluids so 6K, i'm sure doesn't take 6500 in labor.
I personally would NOT rebuild but get new oem motor, i'm sure someone here could tell you the book labor hours for engine change, my guess is 15-18 hours max @ 150 a hour labor is 2700 labor.
rebuild will be a lot of disassembly and reassembly with some new parts depending on what is found when tore down which could put you cheaper or more and more and more expensive.

I agree with the above.
If they don't clean everything perfectly in the block, you risk another failure with metal trash circulating throughout the block causing more damage, or possible bearing failure.
Cheap insurance with a new long block...
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I inquired about a new long block from gm instead of the rebuild. They quoted $6k for the long block, plus a few other parts like oil cooler, plus labor, comes out to appx $12.6k, $100 more than the rebuild, albeit the rebuild included some upgraded parts like the trunnions.

However, I like the idea of a new OEM engine, especially since I’ll be selling it right away, so that’s what I’m having them do.

Thanks again for the valuable input.
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