Chevy SS Forum banner

Rear Subframe Poly Bushing Installation

538 Views 1 Reply 2 Participants Last post by  heffray
I've had my SS since new. With 75k miles on it now everything is tip top still, and I've taken the car on several track day adventures when my "other" car is offline. It does great, but with some miles behind her, I felt the need for a few upgrades to the handling. I'm keeping it mild though as I don't want to spend a ton on this car, and I definitely do not want to get into the drivetrain (plenty of power and brakes IMO and I need reliability in the long term since I daily it).

So, where that brings me is adding sway bars, adjustable endlinks, adjustable front strut mounts, aftermarket rear camber bolts, and some Carbotech XP10s (or maybe stick with stock pads, they are awesome on track in my experience). What I know in my heart from owning many sigma and zeta chassis cars, however, is that rear cradle poly mounts will really help, but I just hate doing the job. On my first gen V, it was OK, but I heard these have to be burned out. All that is fine, but here's my main concern/question:

What all has to be removed from the rear cradle to do this bushing swap? E.g., does the diff, control arms, or parts such as these need removed in order to drop the subframe enough? Thank you for helping this impatient wrench!

1 - 2 of 2 Posts
I just did these: PSR aluminum was very close to the same price as urethane replacements ($334USD shipped, after $140 int'l shipping), and I don't see any point to doing inserts. I tried Whiteline's inserts, and there's not a significant void to fill at the top/bottom of the mount, and they were designed for the VE mount anyway. Do not buy inserts.

You'll need to pull the lower shock bolt, the sway bar endlinks, and probably the rearmost muffler mount (this is the only one that's a pain to realign). You don't need to drop the LCA or remove the shock unless you're also doing a rear tire clearance check. The diff can stay attached to the subframe and move with it. You can use a jack and a socket or bit of pipe or something to push out the stock mounts: something close to the OD of the bushing would be nice so you don't replicate the one I did where the center tore out first, and I had to burn and cut the plastic shell out.

I tried to get by with a heat gun, and it was not hot enough. A torch solved this, and the plastic bushing housings melted a bit. I also had to grind down the outside of the PSR mounts a little: even freezing them and cleaning out the subframe points, they were slightly oversized for the subframe.

I have not noticed any NVH impact with the aluminum subframe bushings, or really thought about them at all when driving the car. This includes 4 track days and some commute driving
See less See more
1 - 2 of 2 Posts