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For the record, I've got a Miata too, so I'm actually well aware of the considerations there.
Ya Know,,, I wonder if there are enough of us here that also own Miatas,, to start a subgroup in General Automotive Discussions??? Someting like,,,, SS's and Miatas, Always Carving Corners!!! ORRR,,, SS's and Miatas, Cuz EVERYDAY is a Track Day!!!!!

Perhaps a poll is in order??? I mean,,, you and I cant possibly be the only ones,,,, can we????

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Sorry for the drift!! Back to regularly scheduled programming!!
 

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No, there have been more than a few of us. Can't remember all their names right now, but I seem to recall nothingtoseehere had one too. The thing is, I have an F-250 as well, so I really need to find the one that works well with all of them, if such a thing exists.
 

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P.S., my exact model is BL-5000 SLX (the shorter one to use with a couple smaller cars).
From what I gathered the 5000SLX ain't optimal but can be made to work. I read the thread and wanted to see if there were any updates.
IIRC you'd written that the 5000SLX is a bit short for our jack points, but it works cross ways. I want something I can drive over 'cuz I don't want to hang it on my walls to get it out of the way; and I don't want to have to futz with balancing blocks on the lift.
 

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From what I gathered the 5000SLX ain't optimal but can be made to work. I read the thread and wanted to see if there were any updates.
IIRC you'd written that the 5000SLX is a bit short for our jack points, but it works cross ways. I want something I can drive over 'cuz I don't want to hang it on my walls to get it out of the way; and I don't want to have to futz with balancing blocks on the lift.
The problem is that the shop lift points are not the same width apart and from what I've measured even the wider QuickJack will not fit well lengthwise. Either way you still need to carefully position the blocks. It might work under the weld seams but I in turn don't want to futz with that.
I would not feel comfortable driving over it on a daily basis, actually at all. It is designed to slide under the car once the car is in position to be lifted. Maybe if you have it recessed or have shallow ramps to negotiate it gently... I don't know. And you still need to carefully position the blocks unless you glue them durably to the frames which makes the thing dedicated to one vehicle....
If you accept the idea of setting it up when you need it, the sideways method works fine.
 
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The pinch point lift blocks work well, i use some larger blocks with the pinch weld blocks on top. i have several different kinds of block, ones with a v groove, a U groove and the aluminium pinch weld round ones. If you want to stay on the lift points i tend to use them sideways if there is enough room in the garage (not always at my place) on multiple cars including pickups where the SLX isnt long enough to hit the pinch points via the long axis.

as an aside, anyone use 2x6 or 2x10 as a base layer with rubber blocks of pinch weld pucks on top to make up some space under taller cars and SUV's?
 

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Ya Know,,, I wonder if there are enough of us here that also own Miatas,, to start a subgroup in General Automotive Discussions??? Someting like,,,, SS's and Miatas, Always Carving Corners!!! ORRR,,, SS's and Miatas, Cuz EVERYDAY is a Track Day!!!!!

Perhaps a poll is in order??? I mean,,, you and I cant possibly be the only ones,,,, can we????

馃ぃ

Sorry for the drift!! Back to regularly scheduled programming!!
I started a thread a long time ago that I forgot about for the corner carvers on the boards.

 

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I bought a 5000SLX from Costco, extension kit and a crossbeam bar from JEGS. This looks pretty good because you can nicely offset the lift points and keep the quickjack still rather straight so that you have some space to move around underneath.

For the record, I've got a Miata too, so I'm actually well aware of the considerations there.
... a man with culture I see :)
 

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I bought a 5000SLX from Costco, extension kit and a crossbeam bar from JEGS. This looks pretty good because you can nicely offset the lift points and keep the quickjack still rather straight so that you have some space to move around underneath.



... a man with culture I see :)
Any chance you could post some pics of how "rather straight" it looks when lifted? I'm particularly curious about how parallel the individual jacks are and/or how much angle they will tolerate between them. Also, I'd really like to see how you utilized the crossbeam bar.
 

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I have the 5000 EXT version of the Quickjack, plus the ZL1 magnetic pinch-weld adapters and separate jack bases (which raise the height of the pinch weld adapters so the Quickjack lifting pans clear the floor pan of the car). I considered the standard-length Quickjack as sold by Costco, and convinced myself that I could weld up extensions for the Quickjack - because I am always looking for the economic optimum. But I decided in the end (for once) to just purchase the correct tool. Among other things, this approach preserves the warranty. The EXT lifting pad locations are just barely far enough apart to pick up the SS pinch weld lift points using the ZL1 adapters.

Two other pieces of related information. When Costco was offering the $100 discount, I called BendPak and found that it had originated the discount, not Costco, and they gave me the same discount on the EXT version. And the EXT version fits under my 1964 Corvette, using the rubber blocks. This car has only a 98 in. wheelbase; it is tight but does fit.

What I like about the Quickjack, in addition to ease of use, is that it feels pretty solid when the car is up in the air. The pinch weld adapters sit on flat steel plates so there is no wobble as is seen on a floor jack. Plenty solid for pulling the trans and rear suspension-diff assemblies.
RR:

I am exploring options for lifting and supporting the SS. Can you reply with a photo of your vehicle being supported by the quickjack?
 

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RR:

I am exploring options for lifting and supporting the SS. Can you reply with a photo of your vehicle being supported by the quickjack?
@Ngg I've got pics! It's my G8 but chassis/lift points are the same as the SS. And excuse the mess in the garage. Was quite the teardown/rebuild this last summer.

I will say, the Quick Jacks are the single best tool I've ever bought. I don't know how I was managing before. So easy now and so much room under the cars. It is a pain not being able to slide under from the side of the car, but think I gained more than I lost there. Also a good note if your car is lowered, you may need to create some additional height to have enough room for the jacks. I used the 3" race ramps seen in the pic and had plenty of room to slide the jacks under the car.



My setup is the SLX version with the extenders. The SLX alone definitely does NOT fit the VE/VF platform. I bought the SLX thinking I needed it to fit my wife's ATS, but turns out the damn jack points are so weird, I ended up needed the extenders anyway on her car. So 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 . The extenders give me about another 1.5" of height though so that's at least something. If I could do it again, just buy the EXT.

Also, I originally used the magnetic pinch weld adapters from ZL1 addons, but they kept sliding on me when lowering the car back down and messing up the plastic around the pinch welds. So instead I bought the permanent adapters that you leave on there, and that with the rubber blocks that come with the Quick Jacks has been the perfect setup for me!

 

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Just went and looked for the umpteenth time because of this thread, $150.00 off promo thru March 12th. Now I have to explain to my wife (using her logic of course) that I didn't just spend $1320.00, I just saved $150.00!
 

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My setup is the SLX version with the extenders. The SLX alone definitely does NOT fit the VE/VF platform. I bought the SLX thinking I needed it to fit my wife's ATS, but turns out the damn jack points are so weird, I ended up needed the extenders anyway on her car. So 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 . The extenders give me about another 1.5" of height though so that's at least something. If I could do it again, just buy the EXT.

Also, I originally used the magnetic pinch weld adapters from ZL1 addons, but they kept sliding on me when lowering the car back down and messing up the plastic around the pinch welds. So instead I bought the permanent adapters that you leave on there, and that with the rubber blocks that come with the Quick Jacks has been the perfect setup for me!
The EXT lift point spread is 66", this is suitable for our SS?
I've been wavering between the QuickJack and the KwikLift. I like that the KwikLift gets the tires 20" off the ground, which for my purposes is meaningfully higher than the QuickJack.
The Kwik-lift weighs 700lbs and needs a forklift for unloading, which makes it more challenging to purchase.
 

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@iratollah I think so! The extenders are 66.25" length, and there's plenty of room to position the rubber mounts. It's like a big tray at the end. I'm always having to bring them in a little to hit perfectly square on the pinch welds.

Also, for those considering this. I highly recommend the wall mounts that QuickJack also sells. Once you hang these up, they are completely out of the way. Just don't hang them too high or you're not gonna have fun! I bought the 7000 series which weigh about 100 lbs a pop. They are no joke to pick up and move around.

 

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@iratollah - I have the BL-5000EXT and I can confirm that these units span pinch point to pinch with about 6mm to spare. I will take some pictures this weekend so you can get a good idea. I also purchased the pinch weld blocks and use those instead of the standard blocks that ship with the system.

My biggest gripe is that, while this system is faster than manual jacking with stands, I end up checking the blocks two or three times before I fully engaged the pinch welds. So I have crawl around the car a lot just making sure everything lines up.

I have considered purchasing the ZL1 adapters if and only if they significantly speed the lifting process up.

One good note for the pinch weld blocks is that you can lift the system until it touches a block to the pinch weld and easily push the block into place with confidence. My system makes asymmetrical contact (LR -> LF, RR -> RF) until pressure is built.

I don't like the idea of push and pulling the lifts on my concrete floor, so I use leftover packaging under each side to 'save' the floor and finish on the lifts. I reached out to Bendpak and the rep said it is safe to use furniture sliding pad material. I may add that this weekend.
 

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I got these for my 7000.
 
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Interesting... Do the caster brackets flex to allow the weight of the car to be supported by the frame of the Quickjack?
 

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Along with the $150.00 off on a QJ until 03/12/21 sale, they also have a 15% off accessories at the bottom of the page.(y)
 
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@iratollah - I have the BL-5000EXT and I can confirm that these units span pinch point to pinch with about 6mm to spare. I will take some pictures this weekend so you can get a good idea. I also purchased the pinch weld blocks and use those instead of the standard blocks that ship with the system.

My biggest gripe is that, while this system is faster than manual jacking with stands, I end up checking the blocks two or three times before I fully engaged the pinch welds. So I have crawl around the car a lot just making sure everything lines up.

I have considered purchasing the ZL1 adapters if and only if they significantly speed the lifting process up.

One good note for the pinch weld blocks is that you can lift the system until it touches a block to the pinch weld and easily push the block into place with confidence. My system makes asymmetrical contact (LR -> LF, RR -> RF) until pressure is built.

I don't like the idea of push and pulling the lifts on my concrete floor, so I use leftover packaging under each side to 'save' the floor and finish on the lifts. I reached out to Bendpak and the rep said it is safe to use furniture sliding pad material. I may add that this weekend.
This is very helpful, thank you!
My primary use for a lift is flood protection. Where my garage is now is a couple of inches higher than previously, where it's located got about 18-19" of flood water height during Hurricane Harvey, the highest rainfall total in US history. I'm not counting on a repeat of that level of flooding. I can't fit a four post lift so I'm trying to get something in before June that will give a bit more protection than a car condom bag.
 
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Interesting... Do the caster brackets flex to allow the weight of the car to be supported by the frame of the Quickjack?
 

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@Ngg I've got pics! It's my G8 but chassis/lift points are the same as the SS. And excuse the mess in the garage. Was quite the teardown/rebuild this last summer.

I will say, the Quick Jacks are the single best tool I've ever bought. I don't know how I was managing before. So easy now and so much room under the cars. It is a pain not being able to slide under from the side of the car, but think I gained more than I lost there. Also a good note if your car is lowered, you may need to create some additional height to have enough room for the jacks. I used the 3" race ramps seen in the pic and had plenty of room to slide the jacks under the car.



My setup is the SLX version with the extenders. The SLX alone definitely does NOT fit the VE/VF platform. I bought the SLX thinking I needed it to fit my wife's ATS, but turns out the damn jack points are so weird, I ended up needed the extenders anyway on her car. So 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 . The extenders give me about another 1.5" of height though so that's at least something. If I could do it again, just buy the EXT.

Also, I originally used the magnetic pinch weld adapters from ZL1 addons, but they kept sliding on me when lowering the car back down and messing up the plastic around the pinch welds. So instead I bought the permanent adapters that you leave on there, and that with the rubber blocks that come with the Quick Jacks has been the perfect setup for me!

Thank you Nightfall for your incredibly detailed response. Based upon your recommendations I should purchase:
  • quick jack 5000 EXT with wall mounts
  • ZL1 non magnetic add ons
 
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