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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well this thread should be fun. I’m thinking about upcoming things I want to do maintenance-wise on my car in the next few months. Most involve getting all four wheels off the ground and safely getting under the lifted car. I have two race ramps, two floor jacks, 4 Esco jack stands and four pinch weld adapters. What should be the procedure for putting the car onto all four stands? And man I wish these cars had central front and rear jack points...

Here are a couple thoughts I’ve had.

-Lift one corner at a time using the pinch welds and adapters high enough to place stands in the “approved” spots. Front first, then rear. One man job but lots of stress on the car doing it this way?

-Use two jacks and have a buddy on the other side of the car help to raise the front using the pinch weld adapters so that it goes up evenly, then do the same for the rear. Jack stands placed in the “approved” spots. I like this idea but lowering the car back down using two jacks sounds a little scary. Am I overthinking this?

Happy to hear everyone’s thoughts. Hey at least we might get an actual solution to this and at the very least will be fun reading during the long weekend :D
 

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I do option 2, two jacks with pinch weld adapters and jack stands in the “proper” location, front first then back. Typically a one man show so I raise at little at a time on one side then go to the other side, get the front to the desired height and then do the back. Reverse to lower.

Works fine and as far as I can tell this is the best solution if you don’t have a lift.


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I do option 2, two jacks with pinch weld adapters and jack stands in the “proper” location, front first then back. Typically a one man show so I raise at little at a time on one side then go to the other side, get the front to the desired height and then do the back. Reverse to lower.

Works fine and as far as I can tell this is the best solution if you don’t have a lift.


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I’ve done this. Best option without a lift when ramps won’t do
 

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Can you drive it up on 2 ramps and buy or borrow another pair, then jack up the rear and place it on those ramps? That's my plan for doing headers next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can you drive it up on 2 ramps and buy or borrow another pair, then jack up the rear and place it on those ramps? That's my plan for doing headers next week.
I thought about this as well. Backing up the ramps, set parking brake and chocking the wheels and then jacking up the front and placing stands. Wasn't sure about movement though.
 

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Have you checked out the lift point/jack point threads?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you checked out the lift point/jack point threads?
Yep and they are all a complete mess with arguing and debate. I started this thread with the assumption that we have agreed upon the proper jack and stand locations. This is more about safely lifting and supporting the vehicle onto 4 stands.
 

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Floor jacks are pretty cheap these days - I bought 2 some time ago and lift with those. Harbor Freight seems to always have a sale going for them. That might be a good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Floor jacks are pretty cheap these days - I bought 2 some time ago and lift with those. Harbor Freight seems to always have a sale going for them. That might be a good place to start.
I have two NICE floor jacks already. Are you suggesting using my two NICE floor jacks in conjunction with cheap Harbor Freight jacks? So four in total? Seems excessive?
 

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I have two NICE floor jacks already. Are you suggesting using my two NICE floor jacks in conjunction with cheap Harbor Freight jacks? So four in total? Seems excessive?
My bad, I had to go back and re-read the OP again. You threw me when talking about using the pinch welds points for lifting.
If you have 2 floor jacks, I'd just block the back wheels and lift the front from both sides at once and put the jack stands in. Then do the back the same way.
If you're worried about safety, then cut up a length of 2X8 or 2X10 and stack them under the tires as backup to the jack stands, depending how high you're hoping to get the car up AND if you didn't need to get weight off the wheels.
 

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I do one corner at a time...maybe it's bad but my thought is it's really no different than the stress the car is under when entering a parking lot with a steep approach. I think I've felt the rear tire lift off for a second at the post office here. If I had two jacks I would do as described earlier and lift either side in 2-3" increments, but I'm not going to buy a second jack just for that.

There, I did my part Kannon, you're good for 10 pages into Tuesday now.
 

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Since you've got the ramps, maybe try this...

I have two jacks & used to think that was best way to get it on stands. Would do front, then rear.

Also have set of ramps & now use jack to put one side on ramps, jack the other side & put it directly on stands - then jack first side a bit higher to remove ramps & put it on stands.

I found this to be easier/faster process - maybe see how it works for you.
 

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I have multiple floor jacks, jack stands, race ramps and a set of ZL1 magnetic pinch weld adapters, and I have raised the SS a number of times using the various methods outlined in this post. The classic problem of how to raise the car and then place it on pinch weld adapters and jack stands is not neatly solved. The pinch weld adapters must be used if you want the complete underside of the car open for work, such as to change out rear suspension parts or change the diff. Another suboptimal aspect, the jacking locations are weak sheet metal and are easily distorted if the car is not perfectly level during the jacking process. As a final issue this is even more of a sport if you are doing this by yourself without help, particularly driving the car up on the ramps.

Finally I broke down and purchased a set of Bend Pak QuickJack lifts. It is now sooo easy to raise the car enough to get under it and work on the entire underside. So easy that I use this to change the oil & filter. You will need the extended model, BL-5000EXT as the standard length model is too short to reach both F & R pinch weld lift points on the SS. And the lifts can be stacked in the corner or against the wall when not being used, helpful if your garage is stuffed full of projects like mine.
 

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I have multiple floor jacks, jack stands, race ramps and a set of ZL1 magnetic pinch weld adapters, and I have raised the SS a number of times using the various methods outlined in this post. The classic problem of how to raise the car and then place it on pinch weld adapters and jack stands is not neatly solved. The pinch weld adapters must be used if you want the complete underside of the car open for work, such as to change out rear suspension parts or change the diff. Another suboptimal aspect, the jacking locations are weak sheet metal and are easily distorted if the car is not perfectly level during the jacking process. As a final issue this is even more of a sport if you are doing this by yourself without help, particularly driving the car up on the ramps.

Finally I broke down and purchased a set of Bend Pak QuickJack lifts. It is now sooo easy to raise the car enough to get under it and work on the entire underside. So easy that I use this to change the oil & filter. You will need the extended model, BL-5000EXT as the standard length model is too short to reach both F & R pinch weld lift points on the SS. And the lifts can be stacked in the corner or against the wall when not being used, helpful if your garage is stuffed full of projects like mine.
+2 for Quickjack.
 

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I have always seen the pinch point protectors that are metioned here. While taking a look at the floor jack spreader that @bargegeek mentioned, I accidentally found these " 2-Pack of Rubber Jack Pads (Slotted Pucks) - Universal, Standard-Size Adapter - Frame Rail Protector Puck/Pad Keeps Pinch Weld, Paint and Metal Safe" It was new to me. I just wanted to share and hear any comments from the peanut gallery.

Amazon Link for Item
 

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I have them. They work fine for me.
 
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