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So finally got my shocks but it’s raining. Been reading about that EPS recall horrors and really don’t want to get it done. My car tracks straight and tires are wearing well. What is exactly the issue with it so I can possibly avoid it all together? Don’t want to bring it to a dealer because the last one did the balancer replacement and never replaced the original bolt and reused it. I only noticed this when I removed it for the lsa one and it took no torque at all. The balancer didn’t even rotate backwards when I turned it loose! For a reference the fuel rail and manifold bolts took more effort to loosen than the balancer bolt.

from what I gathered it seems that the harness and connector are made form different materials like one isn’t gold plated. Couldn’t this just be stuffed with a dielectric grease? If this isn’t the case lmk.
You just lose steering with no warning. The resulting steering is very heavy (much heavier than most manual steering vehicles of automotive past) and needs some serious manhandling. I lost mine a few times before the recall and had mine replaced under warranty (not recall). Serious pucker factor when you're in a corner and lose it. I'm ~200lbs with good upper body strength and very fast reflexes and about lifted myself out of the seat leaning on the steering wheel to keep it out of a divider wall on a corner in the highway when it went out. Low speeds like turning into a parking lot, or onto a road would definitely send you into the oncoming lane or off the road if the timing of the steering failure is bad.

They tried the grease thing but still had failures, so it seems the replacement is the best option. I've got a good dealer, so not a big concern on my end there.

Disclaimer: I'm on wider, stickier tires that stick out a bit farther than stock, so that might've impacted steering effort a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
You just lose steering with no warning. The resulting steering is very heavy (much heavier than most manual steering vehicles of automotive past) and needs some serious manhandling. I lost mine a few times before the recall and had mine replaced under warranty (not recall). Serious pucker factor when you're in a corner and lose it. I'm ~200lbs with good upper body strength and very fast reflexes and about lifted myself out of the seat leaning on the steering wheel to keep it out of a divider wall on a corner in the highway when it went out. Low speeds like turning into a parking lot, or onto a road would definitely send you into the oncoming lane or off the road if the timing of the steering failure is bad.

They tried the grease thing but still had failures, so it seems the replacement is the best option. I've got a good dealer, so not a big concern on my end there.

Disclaimer: I'm on wider, stickier tires that stick out a bit farther than stock, so that might've impacted steering effort a bit.
I understand what happens but not the cause. Does the ecm lose communication with the pscm due to poor connection from the different materials? Does the rack itself just lose power?

I can’t get a straight answer from anyone on the island who has done this at a reputable dealer. So no way in hell will I be bringing it back to the place I bought it and don’t want to guess and it could be a worse one.
 

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You just lose steering with no warning. The resulting steering is very heavy (much heavier than most manual steering vehicles of automotive past) and needs some serious manhandling. I lost mine a few times before the recall and had mine replaced under warranty (not recall). Serious pucker factor when you're in a corner and lose it. I'm ~200lbs with good upper body strength and very fast reflexes and about lifted myself out of the seat leaning on the steering wheel to keep it out of a divider wall on a corner in the highway when it went out. Low speeds like turning into a parking lot, or onto a road would definitely send you into the oncoming lane or off the road if the timing of the steering failure is bad.

They tried the grease thing but still had failures, so it seems the replacement is the best option. I've got a good dealer, so not a big concern on my end there.

Disclaimer: I'm on wider, stickier tires that stick out a bit farther than stock, so that might've impacted steering effort a bit.
I second that emotion. **** sucks when it happens
 
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I understand what happens but not the cause. Does the ecm lose communication with the pscm due to poor connection from the different materials? Does the rack itself just lose power?

I can’t get a straight answer from anyone on the island who has done this at a reputable dealer. So no way in hell will I be bringing it back to the place I bought it and don’t want to guess and it could be a worse one.
It's been a few years now so the memory isn't sharp, but it seems to me that the connector involved was clearly identified (and nyogel grease was even applied as an attempted fix) of the two connectors on the unit. If that connector is the one that links the EPS to the PCM, then that should be your answer. (As opposed to if it is the other connector which links the electronics on the rack with the motor drive on the rack).

Having experienced the failure symptom quite often myself, I can tell you that the PCM apparently knows about the failure before it shuts down the rack, because the message always popped up first and then the steering got hard. Given the criticality of steering position info in the steering system, it only takes the slightest loss of real-time position tracking to trigger a no-confidence response and subsequent shutdown.
$.02
 

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I understand what happens but not the cause. Does the ecm lose communication with the pscm due to poor connection from the different materials? Does the rack itself just lose power?

I can’t get a straight answer from anyone on the island who has done this at a reputable dealer. So no way in hell will I be bringing it back to the place I bought it and don’t want to guess and it could be a worse one.
If I recall, @good2go nailed it. The sensor that notes the position of the steering rack loses signal, or has an intermittent signal which trips the computer to shutting down steering. It doesn't sound like it's a matter of a good contact being made, but the actual fault has been kept quiet (likely due to liability). Either way, it pisses me off that such an important system doesn't have a better redundancy or failsafe mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
If I recall, @good2go nailed it. The sensor that notes the position of the steering rack loses signal, or has an intermittent signal which trips the computer to shutting down steering. It doesn't sound like it's a matter of a good contact being made, but the actual fault has been kept quiet (likely due to liability). Either way, it pisses me off that such an important system doesn't have a better redundancy or failsafe mode.
See that makes sense and reminds of the Aussie guy sayin that they only replaced the module and not the rack as it’s an electronic issue not the hard part issue. So is there a way to just get the controller and replace that? Having a real hard time trying to convince myself to drop it off because I really hate people. I trust a person but people suck. Especially when they say “ohh yeah I’ve done so many of them” and make you feel confident only to be disappointed because again people suck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
So when it’s cold the Goodyear exhilarates are hard and kinda suck under hard acceleration but when the roar is warm and tires are warm they actually work really well. You get a good amount of wheel spin while moving forward without deadhooking or blowing the tires off. I also drive my car in the rain but on warm rainy days they have excellent grip. Temps have to be in 50s and up. Anything by less and they are too hard.

overall experience is they aren’t bad for what I paid for them. A really good all season that if driven normal you will be pleased in any temp.

Not sure what I will get next night just replace the rears when worn until the fronts are completely worn and need a full set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
So I’ll be putting in a camaro 218 carrier soon. Wondering about the camaro axles. Are they beefier and do they work? I tried to search but only found axle back exhaust stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Update with a new tune and those Goodyear exhilarate. They are good if you stay out of boost. Too hard for sticking in the street. The mickeys I got hook good I got a 2.06 60’ spinning on asphalt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Well with my last logs doing from 1/4 hits is Mexico I saw I’m dropping fuel pressure down to 20psi. Guess I’m capping out my stock pump. Can’t wait to put in the aux pump and finish tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
What ice tanks do people have that aren’t the glanzer? I cannot obtain a glanzer right now. Missed that window. Need some options for a big mouth ice tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Looking for a ctsv or zl1 torque converter so I figured I’d join the ctsvowners.com forum since it’s same layout and owned by the same company as this one. Post an intro and ad for a converter and banned. Anyways if anyone has a lead to one let me know
 

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Looking for a ctsv or zl1 torque converter so I figured I’d join the ctsvowners.com forum since it’s same layout and owned by the same company as this one. Post an intro and ad for a converter and banned. Anyways if anyone has a lead to one let me know
LOL - seems you may have a knack for that. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Riiiiiight!!!! Still need a converter none the less. I know @PPV is on that forum because I saw the lid there. I can’t even contact admin as it’s the same platform. Once banned and logged in you can do jack including log out.
 

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You said you got an updated tune, one you paid for or did yourself? I progressed along on my tuning for a while doing VVE and timing changes and it ran very smooth at normal and part throttle, but could not get it to go into PE mode quick enough...goes lean first then into enrichment then goes pig rich and bogs down a bit. As long as I drive it part throttle it is great and 50% throttle it is fantastic. But cruising along constant speed then getting into the throttle causes the initial lean tip-in as well as transmission downshift and then it had issues. Slow and smooth roll into the throttle then to full throttle and it is fine minus being too rich and bogging down part.
Which is pretty much where I left it as I'm away on business for quite a while and I parked it till I can get back to it.

Wondering what your solution was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
You said you got an updated tune, one you paid for or did yourself? I progressed along on my tuning for a while doing VVE and timing changes and it ran very smooth at normal and part throttle, but could not get it to go into PE mode quick enough...goes lean first then into enrichment then goes pig rich and bogs down a bit. As long as I drive it part throttle it is great and 50% throttle it is fantastic. But cruising along constant speed then getting into the throttle causes the initial lean tip-in as well as transmission downshift and then it had issues. Slow and smooth roll into the throttle then to full throttle and it is fine minus being too rich and bogging down part.
Which is pretty much where I left it as I'm away on business for quite a while and I parked it till I can get back to it.

Wondering what your solution was.
I haven’t even got to VVE yet. I’ve been on MAF only for a while now. Between not enough time then dealing with the fueling I haven’t made much progress. I’m at the end of MAF tuning but I wiped out the plugs after installing the Dsx aux pump. Now I have to wait for plugs.

The only time I had that issue of lean to rich is when it happens by a downshift. It’s lean because it’s taking timing out from torque management in the transmission for the shift. Clutch control I believe it’s called. I was told a long time ago that I shouldn’t let it downshift on its on if I am going to flat foot it. (Do I listen tho?) it causes an issue with the transmission. Instead you should put it in the gear you want before to flat footing it. No lean issues then from clutch control. It is ok to do small part throttle downshifts on its on for like overtaking on the parkways and stuff but if you are planning on going WOT you should drop it down manually first into day 3rd or 4th depending on your speed and let her eat. On the next shift manually shift and hold in place. It’ll go back into auto S assuming you were already in S to begin with.

You should check your logs and make sure your maf was dialed in from the start. The transition should be seamless from part throttle and PE it could be a huge jump in the PE values or when PE is triggered. I know mine needs to be really rich upstairs but not right when PE starts. So I figured out where PE needs to be really rich all the way up to redline then used a side gradient to blend them a bit so it gradually gets to that point and not like an on off switch.
 

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