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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Motor Mount BROKE with about 25K miles on my SS, (both sides).

TEST for signs/indicators that your SS Motor Mounts are broken, or going bad.

One sign: Left muffler chrome tips lifts up while accelerating with your foot on the brake. This was the first sign discovered that my driver side motor mount was broken. The rubber part of the motor mount was broken, not the bolt part.

Another sign/symptom: Watch for the engine lifting up on the Driver Side.
While in (D drive) with one foot on the brake, and your other foot slightly tapping the accelerator, look for the engine lifting up on the driver side, or a clunk/bump feel in your seats, steering wheel, floorboard... this may take two people.The reason for the bump feeling was; Just after I accelerated (with foot on brake in D-drive), the engine torqued upwards on the left (driver side) then just after the torque stopped, the engine fell back to a rest on the broken motor mount, which is what causes the clunk/bumping feel in my SS seats and floorboard...
This should NOT be a garage test, because your SS may be in DRIVE during the test. Also, make sure the person that looks for the engine lifting is standing at the fender’s side, and not standing directly in front of the car while the transmission is in D-drive.

Note:
I could not tell that the motor mount was broken by looking at it because the rubber part that broke is covered while the engine is at rest. Moreover, had it not been for the slight bumping feel in the steering wheel..., I would have never noticed or checked for a broken motor mount on my SS engine. In other words, it could have been broken way before I discovered it.

I’m sure there are a few other ways to tell if a motor mount is bad or going bad but these were a few telltale signs I discovered.


Three types of Motor Mounts I found for the SS:
Rubber type:
AC Delco SS OEM - Online part # 92271062 $87.49 each.
Polyurethane type.
SuperPro Suspension Parts - part # TRC2000, two for $199+ tax, free shipping, my total was $216.00.
Billet Aluminum & Urethane:
from Speed Shops, i.e. JEGS... $385.00 for a set.


I bought the SuperPro motor mounts because, considering my SS OEM stock motor mounts broke at about 25K, I thought I would try something “slightly better” than the stock AC Delco motor mounts. In addition, like the AC Delco OEM mounts, SuperProTRC2000 motor mounts are carried by an Austrian company and are specifically made for the PPV, G8, SS,Commodores VE, VF....

Once I install the motor mounts from SuperPro, I will post pics of the new and old OEM broken mount for all to see.

Check out this short video talking about the SS Motor Mounts. I also experienced a few of the symptoms he talked about in the video.
https://www.suspension.com/trc2000
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Long Story: How I discovered that my (driver side) motor mount was BROKEN.

For months, I’ve notice a slight bump/clunk/thump in my SS driver seat, steering wheel, floorboard... just after accelerating from a standstill, but could not figure out why. I would periodically pull over into open parking lots trying to reproduce the clunking. Then about a month ago, I put my SS up on eight jack stands, crawled under and looked up at the undercarriage for anything that could be causing the bumping feel.

While under the SS, I looked at the motor mounts, transmission mounts, rear end bushings, checked the rear-axle for leaks; I even checked all four wheels for bearing problems, checked for loose brembo calipers... or anything that could possibly cause the bumping feel.
I gave up, lowered my SS, then starting thinking it was a more serious problem like a transmission slip, or rear-end gear damage...

I even thought it could be my spare tire hitting the spare tire container tub while accelerating, for a couple of reasons. One, my spare tire sat in the SS spare tire storage container and was not bolted down. Two, the bump happened one second after a firm acceleration. This is why I thought it was my spare tire hitting the back of the spare tire container. I then removed my spare tire from the container for a day, but was still able to recreate the bumping.Therefore, it was not the spare tire hitting. I put my spare tire back, this time bolting it down.

They say the definition of stupid is doing the exact same thing twice then expect different results. I never believed that, so weeks later, I put my SS up on jack stands for a second time and checked the exact same things mentioned above, and got the same results, still could not figureit out, both times spending about an hour looking. At the same time, knowing that the third time I put my SS up on jack stands, I’m going to drop the transmission pan, and the rear-end gear cover and check both for metal shavings. However, before I checked for the third time on jack stands, I wanted to have another person to brake and accelerate while I look for signs, axle, brembo, muffler tips, engine movement...

About a week later - Car Talk at work:
While talking to two new co-workers about cars, one has a 69 Camaro with an LSX engine swap, the other has a 68 Vett and talks about doing an LSX engine swap. I figured between the three of us, one should be able to figure out what might be causing my acceleration clunking. Therefore, we three went to the back parking lot where my SS was parked, the search began.

While in (D drive) with my LEFT foot on the brake pedal, and my RIGHT foot tapping the accelerator (I begin to feel the bumping), one coworker notice that my LEFT muffler chrome tips were lifting upwards upon accelerating. This was the first time I checked with someone looking while I accelerated. Once he told me that my SS LEFT muffler tips were lifting upwards, I knew it could only be one thing, motor mounts. Therefore, I popped the hood and did the brake pedal/acceleration while looking at the engine.

After months of wondering what was causing the bumping/clunking feel throughout the SS body, I discovered that my engine was lifting up about 4-inches on the driver side, and that the driver side motor mount was broken.

Ordered Parts:
I ordered a set of SuperPro motor mounts part# TRC2000f rom Diverse Suspension Technologies; they carry Australian Parts for the SS and are based here in Texas, $199.00 + tax.

After my order, I asked a few questions about SuperPro parts:

Why is SuperPro, an Australian parts company here inTexas...?
Here’s what I figured out and was told by the order taker.
SuperPro, Whiteline, and Pedders are all affiliate companies in Australia. In addition, when Austrian racers come to the US, they need parts here in the US and sometimes need them fast, thus US based parts.
Another reason is because, the PPV, G8, SS, are all sold here in the US, which helps keep Austrian companies a US auto parts market. This is a good thing for the SS as parts are concern.

SuperPro video link about the TRC2000 motor mounts for the SS.
https://www.suspension.com/trc2000
 

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...
SuperPro, Whiteline, and Pedders are all affiliate companies in Australia. In addition, when Austrian racers come to the US, they need parts here in the US and sometimes need them fast, thus US based parts.
...

Forgive me, but this image immediately came to mind for some reason: :wink
EDIT: Is it just me, or is this pic not showing anymore?? (should be a kangaroo with a dude in lederhosen)











On a more serious note, thanks for the concise description of the problem and the fix . :thumbsUp:
 

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Glad you found it! Thanks for making me think about another $200 I should probably spend this winter while my motor is out.

Then about a month ago, I put my SS up on eight jack stands, crawled under and looked up at the undercarriage for anything that could be causing the bumping feel.
Why 8 Jack stands? 4 always works for me...
 

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Oh for sure dude. I too have seen those cables on older muscle cars. Those early motor mounts were total junk. Add a little valve cover rust preventative (Ie: oil) and a dose of raw torque and say good bye to the mount. B.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Here are a few pics of the BROKEN SS motor mounts

I got the old mounts off and was somewhat surprised to find that both were broken. However, not too surprised because, I only tested my SS for a broken motor mount while in D-drive, which would be a better indicator that the driver side mount was bad or broken. I never checked the passenger side mount.

Anyway, I got the new ones installed and thought I would show a few pics of the old ones until I do a detailed post on my install, which will not be too detailed because there is not much to it if you have the right tools. Although a lift and air tools would have made things much easier, but I still managed.

Here are a few quick comments based on what I found today after removing the old SS OEM Motor Mounts.
Reason I would at least check for bad or broken SS motor mounts:
* If your SS has ever been on a track...
* If you are a natural sprinter...
* If your SS has 50k miles or about. etc
Note: I only had about 25k miles when I began to feel symptoms that my motor mounts were broken or going bad.

Things I think that may contribute to an SS Motor Mounts going bad or breaking:
Supercharged, Sprints (a lot), Down shifts (a lot), Hard acceleration (a lot), etc.

Pics:
Pic01 (the driver side motor mount is still on my SS) and Pics 02 thru 06 are all the same broken motor mount, (the driver side). The pics were taken about one hour apart. In other words, based on pic01, you cannot always tell if a motor mount is bad or broken by looking at it while it is still on your SS.


I believe there may be many SSs with broken motor mounts that do not know they are broken, I didn't know until post #02.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Safety Stands

Glad you found it! Thanks for making me think about another $200 I should probably spend this winter while my motor is out.
Why 8 Jack stands? 4 always works for me...
I knew that would get someone's attention. The point was to emphasize safety. :smile
I have very good jacks and stands, and every time I have found new or better stands, I kept the old ones. I now have about twelve jack stands.That said, I usually use four (3 ton) stands to hold the car, while at the same time placing the four 3-ton red aluminum stands next to the holding stands as “safety stands”. I do not trust the red aluminum stands to be used as primary stands, the hand print is too small, but they are perfect for safety stands.
Note in the pic that my “safety stands” are not touching the car. They are there sort of like cribbing, in case something gives. They are very easy to place and move around as cribbing safety stands when I’m crawling around under the SS. The pic do not show the four in the rear, two holding and two more for cribbing. The silver jack is holding the SS engine because the motor mount has been taken out.:thumbsUp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Forgive me, but this image immediately came to mind for some reason: :wink




On a more serious note, thanks for the concise description of the problem and the fix . :thumbsUp:

How cute.
But forgive me too, after seeing your image, this image immediately came to mind.
Roger That.:laugh
 

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My first thought when I read your tell tale signs of a broken motor mount: I guess it's not like the old days anymore when it looked like someone was arc welding under the hood and the horrendous grinding noise when the fan was working it way through the shroud , hood and what not.
 

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Good thread and maybe a first for motor mount problem.

But, why would driving in reverse test the right side mount? In reverse, everything on the engine side of the transmission is still turning in the same direction as in drive, which, due to the engine trying to move opposite the direction of the crank rotation (force equal and opposite direction and all that physics stuff), is where the “lift” is coming from on the engine and exhaust.

Serious question, maybe I’m wrong in my thinking...


2016 SSB, stick, hole, spare
 
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Showing my age here ... did a few 7 plug tune-ups on my friends Impala V-8 with air and it had the recall motor mount cable.


Or a three plug tune up on a Chevy Chevette with air.....
 
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OMG, the worst plug change ever for me was on a a 1980 Chevy Camero v8. Those back two plugs on the passenger side are right up against the HVAC assembly. You have to go through the inner fender well with a long extension and a swivel. Plug boots? Come on, have to be replaced each time because they tear trying to get them off. SMH. B.
 
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How cute.
But forgive me too, after seeing your image, this image immediately came to mind.
Roger That.:laugh
Is that one of those "Big Reds" from up north Australia? I heard about them bad boys. I saw a bunch of the smaller Roo's when I was in SA for threes weeks several years back. B.
 
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