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2014 PBM roof and spare
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I'm having a misfire code on #5 cylinder, been having this issue for a while. Thought it was bad gas, but I'm getting this clicking, squeaking noise at idle. The misfire goes away once I head down the road. So far we've determined it's not the plug, coil or injector. What's left? Valve spring? Lifter? We looked at the springs and they don't "appear" to be broken.
 

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Yep, I wound up with failing lifter with those symptoms. Too many miles of driving on that will give good reason to install LSX.
Add trunnion to that list, might not see that if it hasn't started spitting out needle bearings.
 

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About how much to fix something like that? Just want to know so I can budget for it.
 

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Mine ran 3k, the lifters are underneath the heads.
 

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Almost makes me want to try it myself. I do love working on cars, but I've never done any serious engine work like that. Any major gotchas?
 

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A very good book, "can't remember author", has been recommended here and on LS Tech forum. My issue was time and buying more tools as well as parts.

Almost makes me want to try it myself. I do love working on cars, but I've never done any serious engine work like that. Any major gotchas?
 

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Almost makes me want to try it myself. I do love working on cars, but I've never done any serious engine work like that. Any major gotchas?
There are a few good threads/how tos on pulling the heads on an LS, so I'd start there. Probably suggest doing a search on LS1tech. If you are mechanically inclined and know how to use a torque wrench, you're reasonably close to possessing the minimal required talent to do the job.

I'd say the major gotcha is being VERY THOROUGH about making sure all of the coolant is out of the head bolt holes in the block. Leave even a little bit in there, and when you torque the new head bolts you will crack the block since we know water doesn't compress.

I'd also recommend going with either ARP head bolts or studs rather than mess with the 1-time use factory torque to yield head bolts.
 
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