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i have had fbo cam stall cars like 1 gto and 2 fbodies and they are fun but with the ss my plans were difrent , my goals were to drive like stock . Right now my ss is fbo but i really want it a little more power soo i order a 2.9 whipple kit.
i will be happpy with 500rwhp 500torque and to be running 11s at the 1/4 mile and still drive like stock
 

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Fixing My Own "SS"
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Boost in any form is awesome. Back in the later 90s, I drove (daily) some seriously rowdy cars - stick, big cams, solid rear, fats and skinnies. We used to call the jerky, low-rpm bad behavior the "parking lot boogie." I was driving down the highway one day, yelling to have a conversation with a passenger, and I decided that was it. I was done with all that noise. Everything I've built since then has had boost of one type or another, fairly quiet exhaust, low overlap/wide LSA cam, etc. And I have ran deep into the 9s at 150+ in stuff I could take a date out in.

My AT car has a Whipple w/3.75" pulley, SOLO cats and 3" cat back (added baffles), intake/MAF, and tuned it myself. The car is a cherub until you get past about 80% throttle, and then it transforms into a hellion. I haven't dragged or dynoed it, but I also drive a mid-10s/130 mph pickup truck, and the car isn't far off that. My guesstimate would be lower half of the 11s at ~125 mph on a tire.

The flow path doesn't really matter since you're pressurizing a plenum, not trying to optimize the behavior of a long runner intake tract. That "tank" of pressurized air sitting on top of the intake valve is just waiting to rush in, and there's plenty available. Also, in my opinion, the intercooling on either setup is really good overall. You won't ever really be able to find any difference on a driver/cruiser.
 

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Boost in any form is awesome. Back in the later 90s, I drove (daily) some seriously rowdy cars - stick, big cams, solid rear, fats and skinnies. We used to call the jerky, low-rpm bad behavior the "parking lot boogie." I was driving down the highway one day, yelling to have a conversation with a passenger, and I decided that was it. I was done with all that noise. Everything I've built since then has had boost of one type or another, fairly quiet exhaust, low overlap/wide LSA cam, etc. And I have ran deep into the 9s at 150+ in stuff I could take a date out in.

My AT car has a Whipple w/3.75" pulley, SOLO cats and 3" cat back (added baffles), intake/MAF, and tuned it myself. The car is a cherub until you get past about 80% throttle, and then it transforms into a hellion. I haven't dragged or dynoed it, but I also drive a mid-10s/130 mph pickup truck, and the car isn't far off that. My guesstimate would be lower half of the 11s at ~125 mph on a tire.

The flow path doesn't really matter since you're pressurizing a plenum, not trying to optimize the behavior of a long runner intake tract. That "tank" of pressurized air sitting on top of the intake valve is just waiting to rush in, and there's plenty available. Also, in my opinion, the intercooling on either setup is really good overall. You won't ever really be able to find any difference on a driver/cruiser.
Not to derail too much, but picks of the truck?! 😍
 

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2015, Chevy SS, 6.2L LS3, 6L80
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I just put a Whipple supercharger on my 2015 SS. I have to say I was very pleased by the kit, it went together great and did not need to purchase anything additional, except the tune. Before the supercharger my car was 100% stock.....but. i also installed headers, so just doing that required the additional tune
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I mentioned possibly supercharging to the guy I work with and he said the Whipple’s are noisy and can get picked up by the knock sensors and a lot of tuners turn them off. Is that true? Is the Magnuson just as noisy?
 

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Fixing My Own "SS"
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I could see the possibility of a little bit of rattle at idle, but not when there's any load at all on the supercharger. I definitely use the knock sensors. I wouldn't dream of turning that off.
 

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Some whipples do make more noise (whine) than others but I've never heard of turning off the knock center because a whipple was installed. Not say it doesn't happen, if the tuner is any good than they should figure something else out rather turning the knock sensor off. My knock sensor is turned on and works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yeah. That’s why I was asking. It’s a street car and I want it safe and reliable. I was leaning towards the Whipple at this point just because it is cheaper and since everyone in this thread says they’re pretty equal. I’ve always wanted the Magnuson but I don’t really have a good reason why, it isn’t like Whipple is a brand new company.
 

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I'm not bashing whipple here I'm very happy with mine. There are design limitations to everything, whipple chose there design by the limits they had to work with.

@FMOSRacing
I'm going to disagree with you about flow path does not matter. By adding boost you can masking poor flow path (it still works and had good flow based on the HP numbers posted but could the flow path be better yes). Whipple redesigned their manifold for the LT engine flow path is more like a LSA or maggie. Why I bet it had to do with flow path and getting more space for the HX. It would have been less expensive for Whipple to use the same SC/HX case and only redesign the manifold for the LT engine they chose not to do that.
 

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Oh, a tuned flow path is always "better," no doubt. I just think worrying about those kind of things on a 10 psi, pump gas cruiser is fretting about something that's going to get lost in the noise. Same thing with a such a mild difference in reported IATs.

I'd choose between the two superchargers based on other factors.
 

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The question is lumpy idle is not traffic friendly as an everyday or weekend driver.

lobe separation for N/A motor of about 110 to 113 degrees is going to be hard to live with on the street without a decent tune. Cams like this are generally happier higher in the rev range and this is where most street driven cars don’t live.

A good all round cam for boost and NA street use is a lobe separation of between 114 to 118 degrees and provides enough of a lumpy idle without the head ache of bad manners lower in the rev range and is perfect for boost as there is less bleed of boost unlike more aggressive cams.

This provides in my opinion a better package all round. I am pulling over 600 hp at the wheels via a 6L80E with a lobe separation of 116 degrees via and LSA block and heads topped with a Harrop’s 2650 blower. This package has manners of and everyday driver and when the mood takes me a drag strip rocket.

A N/A motor with a tough note sounds great but it’s about the build and what the cars intended for.
 

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Yeah. That’s why I was asking. It’s a street car and I want it safe and reliable. I was leaning towards the Whipple at this point just because it is cheaper and since everyone in this thread says they’re pretty equal. I’ve always wanted the Magnuson but I don’t really have a good reason why, it isn’t like Whipple is a brand new company.
If and when I go boosted, I’ll be looking for 500+ rwhp and otherwise stock driving manners, easily obtainable with any of the supercharger options for the LS3. My determining factor is I just like the looks of the Maggie installations (a lot) more than LSA, Whipple, etc. Aside from the branding the Maggies truly look stock IMO and fit the character of the car very well.

Regardless, haven’t pulled the trigger yet, drivetrain is still stock, I love driving it and the car is in one piece after 5 years, so “winning.”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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If and when I go boosted, I’ll be looking or 500+ rwhp and otherwise stock driving manners, easily obtainable with any of the supercharger options for the LS3. My determining factor is I just like the looks of the Maggie installations (a lot) more than LSA, Whipple, etc. Aside from the branding the Maggies truly look stock IMO and fit the character of the car very well.

Regardless, haven’t pulled the trigger yet, drivetrain is still stock, I love driving it and the car is in one piece after 5 years, so “winning.”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
HA! Love the 'in one piece after 5 years'. That's me right there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I’m currently arguing with myself about going ahead and putting the stock cam back in but I’m also not sure if the stock tune will be safe with the GMPP heads and headers. I would think it would be. I definitely want to make sure I like it again before buying a supercharger I just don’t know if I want to save up the money first and then put the stock cam back in or do it now when who knows how long it’ll be before I have the money.
 

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I’m currently arguing with myself about going ahead and putting the stock cam back in but I’m also not sure if the stock tune will be safe with the GMPP heads and headers. I would think it would be. I definitely want to make sure I like it again before buying a supercharger I just don’t know if I want to save up the money first and then put the stock cam back in or do it now when who knows how long it’ll be before I have the money.
Stock tune will be fine with heads and headers. The LTFT will fix the fueling with the headers. It won’t be off by a lot to care.
 
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