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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if there’s a thread on this already but I couldn’t find it on my phone. I’m getting really tired of how my car drives with the lopey cam and just want it to be smooth and drivable. I don’t really want to loose the power if I just put the stock cam back in so my choices are to just give up on it and sell it or try and save up for a supercharger and put the stock cam back in. I blew my chance at doing it now because I bought a bigger vehicle for the family that ended up needing a massive amount of work.

If I am able to supercharge it, I plan to leave the headers and GMPP CNC heads so I only have to pull the front cover and swap the cam back to stock. I also have a Rotofab intake on the car already. Is there any advantage to the Magnuson or Whipple over the other? I’ve had a bad experience in the past supercharging a C55 AMG so I am absolutely NOT doing an LSA. I want a kit that will come with everything I need and I don’t have to fabricate a bunch of BS or cut the car up to make it work. Will the can tune work that is included with the supercharger kits with the headers and GMPP heads or is a custom tune 100% necessary?
 

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The tune will “work” but I’m sure it won’t be 100% before it’s not meant to have headers or additional head flow. You will be able to start it and drive it but don’t recommend driving it hard at least without a wideband hooked up to see if you are lean or not.

Personally I would go with the magnuson kit. Has a much nicer cooling design.
 

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If you supercharge, and you're swapping a cam, why not put one optimized for the supercharger? You'll need custom tuning either way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I might consider a stock LSA or LS9 cam maybe but I’m just sick of the car the way it is. It sounds killer with the lopey idle and the headers but I want stock like drivability again. I want to be able to get down below 1500rpm and not spill my coffee and take off from a red light in second gear again. I might even take the Monster clutch back out and going back with the stock one as much as I hate the dual mass flywheel. Or I may just sell the car and buy a used C63 or E63.
 

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I might consider a stock LSA or LS9 cam maybe but I’m just sick of the car the way it is. It sounds killer with the lopey idle and the headers but I want stock like drivability again. I want to be able to get down below 1500rpm and not spill my coffee and take off from a red light in second gear again. I might even take the Monster clutch back out and going back with the stock one as much as I hate the dual mass flywheel. Or I may just sell the car and buy a used C63 or E63.
It sounds like you’re just frustrated with drivability. Relax and breathe. It’s not the end of the world. What cam do you have? I’d bet it’s tune related unless you really went full tilt

I have ls9 cam now. It’s a nice cam upstairs. It’s no ls3 cam for sure.
 

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If money is not much of a concern don't go LSA unless you want the sort of OEM look. Most people went LSA because of cheap power and being almost a direct bolt on, not because of max efficiency or power. Now that LSAs are jumping up in price it is starting to make a lot of sense to just go with a kit from aftermarket provider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
It sounds like you’re just frustrated with drivability. Relax and breathe. It’s not the end of the world. What cam do you have? I’d bet it’s tune related unless you really went full tilt

I have ls9 cam now. It’s a nice cam upstairs. It’s no ls3 cam for sure.
Very frustrated. I want to like this car again but I’m just tired. Everything I’ve done to this car is stuff I’ve done to almost every car I’ve owned and I’m not trying to go crazy or cheap. It just fights me the whole way so I’m pretty gun shy at this point. I can’t even lower this car and be happy, I’ve been fighting to find the right combination of ride quality, handling, and looks. I’ve never had trouble with a mild drop before. A guy I work with keeps telling me he thinks the tune is my problem but if it is then I don’t know who to trust. The only way to know is to pay someone else and just hope it gets better. The only other semi-local place is Vengeance Racing or turn to remote tuning maybe Pat G or Shane Hinds. I’ve had the car cammed for 30k miles now (I did it at 4k miles) but I’ve wished for a long time that I had waited longer and saved up for the Magnuson back then. I felt like the Magnuson was the possible solution to the problem because I’d have stock like drivability but a little more power than it has now.

Font Paper Paper product Document Number
 

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Very frustrated. I want to like this car again but I’m just tired. Everything I’ve done to this car is stuff I’ve done to almost every car I’ve owned and I’m not trying to go crazy or cheap. It just fights me the whole way so I’m pretty gun shy at this point. I can’t even lower this car and be happy, I’ve been fighting to find the right combination of ride quality, handling, and looks. I’ve never had trouble with a mild drop before. A guy I work with keeps telling me he thinks the tune is my problem but if it is then I don’t know who to trust. The only way to know is to pay someone else and just hope it gets better. The only other semi-local place is Vengeance Racing or turn to remote tuning maybe Pat G or Shane Hinds. I’ve had the car cammed for 30k miles now (I did it at 4k miles) but I’ve wished for a long time that I had waited longer and saved up for the Magnuson back then. I felt like the Magnuson was the possible solution to the problem because I’d have stock like drivability but a little more power than it has now.

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That cam is a bit rowdy. Did you pick it or someone suggest it to you?

If you want good drivability andnice bottom end. Slap the maggy on with the stock cam and call it a day. It is most definitely a great all around cam. I almost kept it. Depending on how I do at the track I might change it again but the ls9 is a nice boosted cam too for max effort high rpm. My goal was to use all gm valvetrain. Stock sounding sleeper.

If I were you I’d get vengeance racing to tune it. Remote tuning requires wideband and tons of driving to dial it in. TONS. Dyno that **** and be done.
 

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Your same question was one I asked of three different tuners in my area. Every one told me that the Whipple was the most complete and easy to install, so that what I chose. I like the look of the Maggie better, but no one sees it when the hood is closed, so look became a very minor consideration. Still, you'll want a custom tune.

I like the sound of a lopey cam but had zero interest in reining the surge of those horses and didn't want to crack the case on my engine because then it's no longer stock, right? So I went with a Whipple. The downside of having more weight up front that makes the front end push more in turns is well overshadowed by the eyeball flattening acceleration of an FI LS3.
 

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Wrong thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
That cam is a bit rowdy. Did you pick it or someone suggest it to you?

If I were you I’d get vengeance racing to tune it. Remote tuning requires wideband and tons of driving to dial it in. TONS. Dyno that **** and be done.
I want to say it was suggested based on what I thought I wanted at the time. And I did like it for a few years at least. I think part of the blame is me buying my 08 Escalade and everything I’ve done to it has just worked out great and the truck drives butter smooth even up to speeds a truck shouldn’t be doing. So I guess my taste has changed a little because of that. One thing that has had me wanting the supercharger is the fact that the car does feel slower than stock below 3k RPM where it spends most of its time.

I thought Pat G said a wideband wasn’t 100% necessary but maybe that wasn’t the case. I don’t know why I have a hang up on using Vengeance. But I guess if I supercharge it and leave the headers I’ll have to use someone. Maybe they can tell me based on the cam specs and my issues if they think they can do better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Your same question was one I asked of three different tuners in my area. Every one told me that the Whipple was the most complete and easy to install, so that what I chose. I like the look of the Maggie better, but no one sees it when the hood is closed, so look became a very minor consideration. Still, you'll want a custom tune.
Did they mention what specifically made the Whipple more complete? The Magnuson is what I’ve always said I wanted but I don’t really have a good reason as to why.
 

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Did they mention what specifically made the Whipple more complete? The Magnuson is what I’ve always said I wanted but I don’t really have a good reason as to why.
The Maggie kit is just as complete as the Whipple. The debate is usually about efficiency and displacement ( the Whipple being larger )

If you were stock for stock and planned to use the supplied tune; the Maggie from my research has a better tune. The decision ends here for me personally due to CARB compliance.

With the headers ( especially. Long tubes ) and the GMP heads you will want or need a custom tune for drivability with either kit.
 

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Did they mention what specifically made the Whipple more complete? The Magnuson is what I’ve always said I wanted but I don’t really have a good reason as to why.
It's been a while, IIRC they said that they didn't have to source any additional parts.
Additionally, the Whipple (they claimed) had more room for growth if I wanted crazy power. IMHO, for street use or DD anything over 600rwp isn't pratical...you can't put down that much power and hookup unless you get into it gradually.

ETA: In any thread of this type the common response will be "go with an (insert variable) because that's what I used". Caveat emptor.
 

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It's been a while, IIRC they said that they didn't have to source any additional parts.
Additionally, the Whipple (they claimed) had more room for growth if I wanted crazy power. IMHO, for street use or DD anything over 600rwp isn't pratical...you can't put down that much power and hookup unless you get into it gradually.

ETA: In any thread of this type the common response will be "go with an (insert variable) because that's what I used". Caveat emptor.
I’m impartial. I just like the cooling of the maggy. If he wants the most power and room for growth I’d totally go with the whipple and a trunk tank.

I didn’t use either one of those options.
 

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I went with the Heartbeat for the cooling as well. Part of me wonders if I were to do it again, would I go Procharger? Nothing against Whipple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wouldn’t be looking for all the power. If it makes more than I have now, that’s enough for me.
 

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I didn't realize the Whipple was significantly worse at cooling than the maggie... For my relatively stock whipple application I have never run into cooling issues.

I have the Whipple relatively stock overall. Dropped to a 3.75" pulley from a 4". 102 TB and stuff but I am running stock cam. I'm very happy with the car overall.

My only 2 cents would be keep the monster clutch. The stock clutch can't hold up to the extra power.
 

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My tuner also said order the Whipple from a complete kit standpoint. I'm not sure there is that much difference between the two kits.

Temp with the stock Whipple kit was about 20* above ambient not under load and 25/30* under boost ( Like 41AH24 I'm running a 3.75) I don't think that is bad for temps or for 600RWHP (stock cam and throttle body, LTH, CAI custom tune). Last year swapped whipples HX for an chiller (PNP). Run 20/30* below ambient now feels stronger than before.

Whipple design airflow is not optimum. The HX brick is close to the bottom of the intake manifold which causes air to make a 90+ degree bend to get in the intake runners. Not ideal but it seems to work. The whipples for the LT engines are designed more like maggie. Whipples should produce less heat under boost being a screw design SC.

I don't think you can go wrong with either the maggie or whipple for a DD less than 600hp.
 

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very good info! i just order a whipple kit , i will keep any new updates how it came .
 
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