If only I had the know-how to do this type of thing on my own, I would be all over this. As it stands, I would have to have the work done, which significantly increases the price.

Shawn

 

Seems to be good from what I know. Here are some pics about the ZL1 SC lid clearance with respect to the hood liner. I have about 1/8 of an inch indent in the liner. If you choose not to install the liner you'll clear it with no issues.

 

Where abouts in Texas are you? I could help you get it done if you aren't too far. It wont require too much extensive work. Hardest thing may be pinning the crank for you or cutting into some plastic to make the heat exchanger work and making brackets. Other than that, its just nuts and bolts with a little wiring.

 

Couple of questions.

Is even remotely possible to do this in stages? If not i may just order a few pieces and then wait and then order a few more lol.

Is there a tutorial on completing the installation? I am fairly decent with a wrench and have some knowledge of the components, so i am just curious...

 

Im actually in Katy, Tx, near houston.

If i was going to do this, it would probably be around tax time next year. Got birthdays and xmas between now and then that take all of my extra cash.

Shawn

 

Im actually in Katy, Tx, near houston.

If i was going to do this, it would probably be around tax time next year. Got birthdays and xmas between now and then that take all of my extra cash.

Shawn

Dam, thats kind of far for me. (kerrville, tx)

 

Really nice job putting this all together in one place.

 

No, I do not believe so. You can order the parts in stages, but as far as the install, you need to do it all at once. You can upgrade you cam before hand. The LS9 cam can be used with stock LS3 springs and only cost sub $115 from most parts houses. NA gains with the LS9 cam are 25-20hp from 4500-6500 but you will lose 20-25hp from idle to 3500-4000ish.

SS4ALL, I can live with that much rub... lol, no ****. Could even just cut out that section where it rubs but then it may look funny. Or simply remove the entire liner.

 

TXSS, I am down!

 

What you really ought to talk to your boss about is setting up an E-Z-Payment-Plan... I can do $100 down and $25 per paycheck...

(and, yes, I'm joking...)

Thank you for taking the time to put this list together. If you do decide to market this kit (or even whenever the prices are finalized) please let us know -

I can certainly see buying the parts over time to put this kind of kit together - I'm patient enough to wait for the warranty to expire...

 

The dealer would probably more than likely void your powertrain warranty, but as far as the warranty on the parts itself, it would still stand with us. Im not sure exactly what the warranty on the blower and lid is, but I am looking in it.

But again, the dealer would have to prove that your modifications directly caused whatever you are in for.

Parts warranty is 12 month unlimited miles but there is a bulletin stating a 10yr/120k mile warranty on the LSA's in the ZL1 and V.

 

TXSS, what's your thinking on headers on this build? From what I read and per my builders recommendation they are good to keep back pressure and peak boost in check. The LSA SC puts about 10 psi peak boost with stock pulley. I have headers and ended up with 9 psi peak (8 psi avg over rev band) because headers dropped about 1 psi. The sound is also great...

 

You will gain boost as you increase the inlet airflow. But you will lose boost as you increase the exhaust flow. That doesnt mean you are losing power though. Through boosted applications the optimal setup would be 1 7/8" headers through a dual 3" setup all the way out to the tips. You CAN still use your stock exhaust, you just wont make as much power. 500rwhp will still be easily achievable with stock exhaust from manifolds to tips with this setup on an LS9 cam. With the LS9 cam you can retain your stock valvesprings even on boost. Its not really recommended but its not going to hurt anything or cause valve float. The cam doesnt have hardly any more lift than stock, the only changes are the duration which is the time the valves are open and the lobe separationg angle.

 

Since I recently did the ZL1 blower to my 2009.5 G8, figured I'd comment.

If those prices in the first post are real, they re pretty good. If offering a kit, post it up on the g8 boards and C5 -may be able to generate some volume.

I'd dump the GM dampener for a ATI unit. The GM dampener will wobble, resulting in belt chirp -almost all end up this way. And, the ATI has a keyway which makes the pinning process easy as well as future removal/replace for any work on the oil pump etc.

Injectors - I did the calculations, and new the 52lb lsa injectors would be close. I also have a tooley stg2 cam which pushed the inj duty cycle to 100%. Being conservative, I ended up with 60lbs injectors as it was just too close to lean.

If the fuel line comes up on the drivers side like the G8, you will need a Russell 641303 adapter (not a push on!), a 150deg and straight fitting along with some hose. I recommend PTFE -6 fuel line.

As it appears you have the ZL1 fuel pump, if you have the funds, I'd look at a vaporworks PWM controller with MAP reference, make the injector parms easy to set.

IC pump, I went with a ZL1/VOLT unit. Flows better than the generic bosch units (see the lingerfelter article) and comes with a bracket that mounts nice.

Ditch the TTL crank bolt, go with the ARP and heck, do ARP head bolts also.

If think of a mustang IC rad, look for the 2012 shelby or newer, it's 2" thick vs 1.5 for earlier. I got mine for 125 or so and it came with IC tank. It's a difficult install, ego wise, as now my G8 has Ford DNA in it. FWIW, I'm running the ZL1 IC rad and mustang in series.

I gathered my parts for well over a year, trolling the C5 ZL1, ctsvowners, ls1tech forums as well and watching Amazon warehouse (yes, they carry more GM than you realize)

And lastly, make sure your tuner is better than good and clearly has experience with tuning the LSA, in particular if you go with a custom cam- can't stress this enough.

 

The ATI dampener is an option. especially when we want to go with more boost. As of right now. Not a lot of people are going to jump up in boost right away so Im trying to offer this with as much stock stuff from GM as possible. I havent read of anyone having any wobble issues as I frequent the C5 and CTS-v and G8 forums. Maybe I missed it.

As far as injectors, and any other aftermarket items, I wish to not offer anything aftermarket in this kit as we could have to buy out and do PO's and CC charges, just makes for a paperwork fiasco here at the dealership for the accounting people.

Ive ran high boosted applications and never needed a MAP reference controller for my fuel pump. Ive ran boost a pumps with great success, or just upgraded to a larger fuel pump.

The faster the IC pump is pumping, the longer it takes for the fluid to cool. You dont want the fluid moving at snail speed, but it needs to be moving at a decent pace through the heat exchanger to get optimal cooling from efans pulling air through them. I am choosing to run twin bosch pumps as I will be building a trunk mounted ice box and will need the extra pump to move the volume.


Ive also ran the stock balancer bolts in in 700-800+ hp applications and never had an issue. If they are tq'd properly, they arent going to walk out on you.

I tune cars and have tuned CTS-V's and ZL1's so thats not a problem for me. As for others, yes, they need to do their research on who they are going to let tune their car.


Updated first post as I forgot the list the LSA intake gaskets.

 

TXSS, my post was not intended as negative to you, in fact I commend you on the effort to help out the forum with part numbers and pricing. Sorry if it came off that way. My intent was to share my experience only, give options from first hand experience.

Since I don't have a SS not sure SS folks will have the same challenges, ie the vaporworx for the FP was two fold , PWM power and the MAP reference. With a good tune, the map ref is not needed, but may make it easier as you will always have 58psi across the injector tip (in theory).

GM has a tsb for the dampener wobble, comes to belt chirp primarly. I have not read of many outright fails. I'm confident GM is fine, I preferred a true running pulley.

Regardless, nice job on all the work you have put into this.

 

TXSS, my post was not intended as negative to you, in fact I commend you on the effort to help out the forum with part numbers and pricing. Sorry if it came off that way. My intent was to share my experience only, give options from first hand experience.

Since I don't have a SS not sure SS folks will have the same challenges, ie the vaporworx for the FP was two fold , PWM power and the MAP reference. With a good tune, the map ref is not needed, but may make it easier as you will always have 58psi across the injector tip (in theory).

GM has a tsb for the dampener wobble, comes to belt chirp primarly. I have not read of many outright fails. I'm confident GM is fine, I preferred a true running pulley.

Regardless, nice job on all the work you have put into this.

I didnt take it in any negative way. In fact I know that I come off as a negative person with how I word things, its just how they come out, lol. Sorry for sounding like a dick, if I may.

We dont sell a lot of V's or ZL1's around here so we havent seen anyone come in with the wobble. Not saying they aren't out there, we just havent seen it yet.

 

WHAT ABOUT BELT DRIVE? I looked at this on my SS Camaro and the belt drive was wrong to do an LSA swap. The extra mounting bracket holes weren't in the water pump either. I don't have my car right here in front of me so are the Sedan's different?

 

I can offer this as a kit at the price posted in the first post. The kit consists of only the parts listed with the GM part numbers. If you want to add anything like the ZL1 Intercooler pump, please let me know and I will get you pricing. If you wish to opt out of the ZL1 heat exchanger, let me know as well and I can adjust the price for you. If you want a new fuel rail and new LS9 injectors, I can add those to the price tag as well. Shipping charges will occur on top of the listed price.

PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT A COMPLETE KIT!!!

Most of the parts are coming out of Michigan and some are direct-ship from the source. It would take roughly 5-10 business days to receive everything before I could package everything together and ship it out.

 

How often do CTS-V's and ZL1's wreck? If you really wanted to save the money i'd call around and find a junkyard with totaled cars for said parts.

 

CTSV and ZL1 owners like to mod too. Can save some coin by being patient and placing WTB postings.

I found yards don't like to piecemeal so much any more, they want to sell the whole assm. since they are late model parts.

 

The purpose of offering these parts new is so the buyers can have a warranty on their part. If they buy a used part and something happens to it, they chit out of luck and will have to come out of pocket to fix the issue.

 

I need this in my life lol

How do I get started with ordering this package ?, thanks in advance

 

Welcome to the forum Tim!

 

PM me, the parts list is set but a few things you'll have to outsource.

 

Thanks

 

Here's the list off an excel I updated a while back. Prices are without shipping, although many parts can be had for less (like injectors and shipping on those is negligible). Most places list the blower in the 1500-1700 region but shipping is about 300-400. I haven't gone to a GM parts desk yet to price the parts out. Pretty soon I'll have to start running to one

I haven't bought anything yet but I do plan on starting to piece the parts together so hopefully some beautiful spring day I can slap it on the car and start off with a base LSA tune and work from there. The other things that really should be added to the list is a wideband. Not a very good idea to run a diy setup (although factory parts) without one. Even if it is tuned by a pro. All it needs is one good long lean pull and the tops of the pistons are stuck in the cats.

I haven't updated the list for a while. Just wanted to chip in.
I haven't cross referenced the list below with the one in this thread so I might be missing something. The text is shamelessly copy pasted off simular posts for the G8.

Cost -> Part #
$1,555 -> 19257754 Supercharger with bypass
$298 -> 12622236 ZL1 Supercharger lid / 12631035 CTSV Lid
$14 -> 12612467 Lid Gasket/Insulator
$235 -> 12605222 Fuel Rail
$390 -> 12598646 LSA Injectors x 8
$38 -> 12639188 EVAP solenoid
$6 -> 11588718 SC bolts x 10
$112 -> 12603916 Crank Pulley
$8 -> 11570046 Crank Pulley Bolt
$54 -> 12606501 idler bracket
$81 -> 12606031 idler pulley
$63 -> 12606032 idler pulley
$27 -> 12606500 S/C tensioner bracket
$134 -> 12622452 S/C tensioner
$7 -> 11588749 Tensioner Bracket Bolts (x2)
$3 -> 11588742 Tensioner Bracket Bolt
$30 -> 12592525 3 Bar Map Sensor
$15 -> 12614717 IAT Sensor
$23 -> 25884797 226697069 Intercooler Filler Neck (This is a intercooler loop filler neck off a cobalt, you could do a tank or whatever)
$28 -> 22697069 Intercooler Filler neck Cap
39202200 2 Bosch Intercooler pump (This is the bosch part number)
$210 -> 20945282 GM Intercooler Pump (If you don't want to get the above off ebay for half the price..lol)
$6 -> 11588718 Intake Bolts (if you don't get them with your sc, you need ten)
$147 -> 22879421 Intercooler
$3,485

$118 12638427 Cam
$18 12586481 Cam Gear
$7 12556127 Cam Gear Bolts (x3)
$142.19

 

has anybody considering doing this actually compared the p/n's for the lower end like the head gaskets, pistons, pins, rods, bearings, and crank to see if the LSA vs LS3 are different?

 

This is a waste of time. Go to camaro5 and look at all the LS3s and L99s that have had superchargers put on them. I know deep in your heart you want to believe that a supercharger will break your car as soon as you put it on. I know otherwise. When I was into the Camaro scene in Texas there would be tons of DD LS3 motors with superchargers on them. All worked just fine. Most of the failures I saw ended up being the TT cars with crazy boost numbers. This will be an easy swap with no long term durability issues that are not within the acceptable range for an LS3. just get a good tuner and dont use crappy fuel.