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The passenger side vent on my SS is blowing warmer than it should be, so I checked the hose and mine is leaking too.

I wonder if this could be related to the steering rack recall replacement? i.e. They apparently jack up the engine to get the rack out/in and maybe that stressed the hose!
 

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2014 SS, Heron White, No Sunroof, added OEM spare
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It's possible, because, it could pull on it a bit, but, you would have a hard time proving that.
 

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The passenger side vent on my SS is blowing warmer than it should be, so I checked the hose and mine is leaking too.

I wonder if this could be related to the steering rack recall replacement? i.e. They apparently jack up the engine to get the rack out/in and maybe that stressed the hose!
Could be, but it seems that hose doesn't need help to fail, it just does it on its own anyway....

Someone posted about the tension/angle it's at on the bottom, I think they were onto something. Pull and vibrate on it and it will leak eventually. There's a joke in there but I'm not going down that road.

:laugh
 

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I have the same issue in this thread. The crimp is damp a small amount of dirt accumulated due to the excess oil. The AC still works fine, but is a matter of time before it fails.

I was thinking about gently bending the hard line, so there would not be as much stress on that crimp....:serious
 

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A/C Compressor Oil?

Label on fan shroud says to use PAG oil so I went to auto parts and behold, there are three different viscosity PAG oils - does anyone know which is correct? Mine is a 2017 and I replaced all the hoses as they were leaking...
 

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Label on fan shroud says to use PAG oil so I went to auto parts and behold, there are three different viscosity PAG oils - does anyone know which is correct? Mine is a 2017 and I replaced all the hoses as they were leaking...
For your car use GM oil p/n 12378526.
 

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Label on fan shroud says to use PAG oil so I went to auto parts and behold, there are three different viscosity PAG oils - does anyone know which is correct? Mine is a 2017 and I replaced all the hoses as they were leaking...
Be careful, you probably didn't loose much oil. Only hoses right?
 

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Label on fan shroud says to use PAG oil so I went to auto parts and behold, there are three different viscosity PAG oils - does anyone know which is correct? Mine is a 2017 and I replaced all the hoses as they were leaking...
Do you have the proper equipment to pull a vacuum, measure and fill it correctly or are just planning on shootin' in some 134a ???

A friend just had his compressor fail and it's expensive ... but his majorguard paid the ~$1k.
 

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Well, add one more to the list of failed factory AC lines. Got this taken care of. Some say from factory the line is too short and without having enough play when the motor mounts flex under acceleration the engine tugs on the line and after a while it quits at the metal connector. However, in looking at it with the tech, at least with my SS, there seems to be plenty of play in the line. Not sure what to say other than I hope this doesn’t come back. Labor is 3 hours and part is around $180
 

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My 2nd got the dust last week. So my 2014 failed at about 3 years and now my 2015 at 4 years. $800 later replaced (covered under extended warrantee)
 

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My 2nd got the dust last week. So my 2014 failed at about 3 years and now my 2015 at 4 years. $800 later replaced (covered under extended warrantee)
Paid for ~1/2 the warranty with a 'small' repair !!!
 

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Sorry about the revival. Just curious. What’s the verdict on cause of failure? Has anyone had a replacement part fail?
 

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I've seen a few replaced. The rubber part of the hose seems to start leaking at the metal joint. I don't the engine pulls at it that much, but, I'm not under there when I'm driving it and punchin' on it.

Mine's not leaking yet, but I have a spare part already.
 

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It is most likely that those who had the A/C line leak are in need of motor mount(s).

My dealer services a few PPVs and the boys with heavy feet chew up motor mounts at an alarming rate.

Hint, hint for all you leadfoots slamming the go pedal to the floorboards at every red light.
 

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Both my 2014 and 2014 had this done. Wife drove the 2014 and was not heavy footed, and my mounts are fine as well on the 2015 (not many WOTs for me). Could just be the location (high hot desert) or just some bad luck.
 

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I've seen a few replaced. The rubber part of the hose seems to start leaking at the metal joint. I don't the engine pulls at it that much, but, I'm not under there when I'm driving it and punchin' on it.

Mine's not leaking yet, but I have a spare part already.
Question then, is there an protective sleeve that one could place over that joint/rubber hose connection to strengthen or cover it? (Think heat shrink to a wire connection)

Something to assist the connection.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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It is most likely that those who had the A/C line leak are in need of motor mount(s).

My dealer services a few PPVs and the boys with heavy feet chew up motor mounts at an alarming rate.

Hint, hint for all you leadfoots slamming the go pedal to the floorboards at every red light.
I’ve heard that before and I’m sure it applies, but at least in my case that’s not the culprit. The tech and I tugged on the line and there’s plenty of slack on it. The reason I ask is because if this is a “line too short” issue, I imagine that’s easy to remedy by cutting it and extending it. I’m just trying to avoid another repair, so I was curious what everyone’s experience has been.
Motor mounts are fine. This car spends a relatively boring life in daily traffic with the rare, occasional trip to 6K rpm.

I trust my guy at the dealership and he said he hasn’t replaced many at all, so here’s to hoping it’s just a bad batch from factory. By this point I think the only two issues I haven’t faced are leaking magride struts and heater core (this one in particular terrifies me).
 
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