[768mph]

I figured this is a write up most will use and possibly pin for new owners.

Change your own battery detailed below.

Tools needed:

Flat head
Body panel puller
10mm 1/4” rachet
13mm 3/8” rachet
6” extension 3/8”

Steps:

Remove spare tire cover.

Open the battery cover panel and disconnect your GRD and PWR terminals

Squeeze the two tabs to remove the PWR cover.

Use 10mm to loosen nuts

Take your flat head and gently remove the vent tube.

You’ll want pull all the panel retainer clips with your body panel puller

Two by the battery cover

And three by the back seat

Once you pull the cover out of the way you can access the strap retention and the battery hold down bracket.
13mm and extension

Now you can lift your 50lb battery out and replace in reverse sequence.

*dont forget to hook your vent tube back up.


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[iratollah]

Outstanding! Thank you very much @768mph! Your previous thread, along with hazed memories of other cautions on this forum have me realizing it's prolly time to put in a new battery on my 2015. My dashcam has been acting odd, noticing a couple of other transient and mysterious electrical anomalies. Ima gonna do it and will order from Summit, I try to order from anywhere that's not Amazon.

 

[2074]

That is the HARD way !!!

Open trunk.

Close all doors.

Place fob at least 20 feet away.

Wait 15 minutes for trunk light to go out.

Remove spare tire carpeted cover.

Unscrew 4 cargo net hooks

Carefully but forcefully remove plastic trim that the cargo hooks screwed through by pulling up. Work it it is usually tight.

Remove scrivits on left trunk panel (get a mirror to find them first).

Bend rear corner of panel carefully towards right front of trunk at 45 degree angle to gain full access to battery. Do not overbend.

Replace battery disconnecting/reconnecting terminals in proper order. #### If you don't know the proper sequence you should not be doing it !!!

#### see this I forgot: Battery removal - at home!

Reverse above.

You will have to carefully work with plastic trim tool the trunk seal weatherstrip to go over the plastic trim panel you yanked off. Pay attention to the seal orientation before you remove it above so you get it back the same. Tip: use a small amount of lube on clips so you don't have to beat on it too hard to get it back on.

Charge new battery with AGM charger before or after installing.

Only replace battery with AGM 720 CCA or higher.

Do not cheap out.

 

[768mph]

That is the HARD way !!!

Open trunk.

Close all doors.

Place fob at least 20 feet away.

Wait 15 minutes for trunk light to go out.

Remove spare tire carpeted cover.

Unscrew 4 cargo net hooks

Carefully but forcefully remove plastic trim that the cargo hooks screwed through by pulling up. Work it it is usually tight.

Remove scrivits on left trunk panel (get a mirror to find them first).

Bend rear corner of panel carefully towards right front of trunk at 45 degree angle to gain full access to battery. Do not overbend.

Replace battery disconnecting/reconnecting terminals in proper order. #### If you don't know the proper sequence you should not be doing it !!!

#### see this I forgot: Battery removal - at home!

Reverse above.

You will have to carefully work with plastic trim tool the trunk seal weatherstrip to go over the plastic trim panel you yanked off. Pay attention to the seal orientation before you remove it above so you get it back the same. Tip: use a small amount of lube on clips so you don't have to beat on it too hard to get it back on.

Charge new battery with AGM charger before or after installing.

Only replace battery with AGM 720 CCA or higher.

Do not cheap out.

First off, stop yelling. We are adults.

Second, i tried your way and was faster with mine. Body panel pullers are quick and just have to know where to go. Several ways to skin a cat.
Thanks for providing another way for others to try.

Also, Duralast platinum out performs the factory OEM replacement and got it at a better price as well.



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[768mph]

Now, lets take a peak how the rest of my Sunday went.

Installed new Duralast battery (sticker 12/19 on side) and it was charging at 15.3-15.4v, drove around for 20min and idled for 10. No change

Ok, bad battery and needed a replacement. Went back to Autozone and explained the 15v issue. Amazed by the response i got, i immediately requested to speak to another person.
“15v?! Thats a good battery!”

I had to explain how charging systems work and that it was not good; requested a replacement. I also requested my core back. Tested both batteries (my old and “new” returned battery) both tested good. No surprise.

Got my replacement and drove home. Went to remove and behold...snapped the little elbow for the Vent tube. Smh

No one, NO ONE has this part. Not Oriellys, Autozone, or trusty (still old school setting) NAPA.
Autozone ordered a Dorman replacement.

Mid Missouri and the pleasures of no open dealerships on Saturday or Sundays.


After many failures to locate vacuum elbows or straight fittings, i finally went to Lowes to find a suitable replacement, 3/16” brass barbed fitting for a hold over until my new part comes in. Out if the plastic fittings...of course.

Exhanged the old “new” battery for another Duralast Platinum (12/19) sticker on side. Go home and install. Drove around for 20 min and reading 13.8-13.9v.

Seems to be the one. Was supposed to a lazy Sunday...


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[768mph]

New Dorman part 924-253, I ordered at Autozone will be here Tuesday.

The brass fitting just needs to hold me over for two days.


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[2074]

Did you check the voltage of battery # 1 or #2 with a voltmeter before installing???

Always check the voltage before leaving with a new battery.

~ 12.6 - 12.7 is fully charged for an AGM.

#1 might not have been bad; it might have just needed a charging ....

Voltage alone is not a proper battery diagnosis.

BTW I'd rather work from outside the car than climb in the trunk to uncover the battery.

 

[2074]

Well here is the SOC numbers from the manual:

voltage @32F 75F

12.75 100% 100%

12.70 100% 90%

12.60 90% 75%

12.45 75% 65%

12.20 65% 45%

12.00 40% 20%

 

[2074]

The DIC is NOT a way to check SOC voltage in either accy/service or run mode.

 

[768mph]

The DIC is NOT a way to check SOC voltage in either accy/service or run mode.

I used to have a fully stocked garage with the appropriate tools and supplies to mitigate all this but we suffered from a house fire last year and it took more than I could replace in such a short time.

I had to rely on the DIC and it assisted in this case.

Trust me brother, Im well aware. I value your input and request to keep it coming!


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[z51vett]

I always put new battery on charger till it reads full my new 17 SS took 6 hours to reach full charge, replacement battery in my 14 took about same time on AGM setting.
z51vett
Doug

 

[2074]

I always put new battery on charger till it reads full my new 17 SS took 6 hours to reach full charge, replacement battery in my 14 took about same time on AGM setting.
z51vett
Doug

Yup. Alternators are not for charging a not fully charged battery.

My '17 took 1 hour on the GR8 to fully charge the battery when I did the PDI. Bulit 2-6-17 PDI 5-10-17

 

[768mph]

Saga continues...


Same thing today, 15.3v

Tested alternator and regulator failed. At the Chevy Dealership now. 3 months left on warranty




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[Kevin0311]

So what should the dic be reading? I have seen both my cars 15.x before.

 

[Sheffield Steve]

Normal generator output is between 11 and 15.5 volts depending on duty cycle requested.

 

[768mph]

So what should the dic be reading? I have seen both my cars 15.x before.

Normal reading 13.8-14.5v.

Should flow constant 14.4-14.5v.

Mine was flowing constant 15.3-15.5v with a brand new battery that was 94% charged.

Fact of the matter, voltage regulator still failed after test. 18k miles...yet still five years old.


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[Kevin0311]

So batt light on dash didn’t illuminate or service charging system when over charging due to bad regulator? I would figure over charging ie bad regulator would have shown a error But guess 15.x was still considered in range.
in no way doubting just trying to understand incase this issues arises in my future.

 

[stvmoe75]

Saga continues...


Same thing today, 15.3v

Tested alternator and regulator failed. At the Chevy Dealership now. 3 months left on warranty

Consider me a skeptic here on this one - this doesn't sound right to me.
What type of test led you to believe the regulator failed?

 

[2074]

Maybe the doc I posted many moons ago needs a reread:

Charging System Tutorial

Document ID: 2662428 -- Describes charging system characteristics and operation. The document directly references the 2015 Caprice PPV, but is equally applicable to the 2014-2017 Chevrolet SS.

www.ssforums.com

 

[2074]

Looking at your pics is the bat pictured the new one???

Did you clean the terminals on it before installing ???? They need it if it is the new one.

Did you clean the cable terminals ???

Basics will kill you if ignored.