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I'm not sure why you think the SS charging system won't fully charge the battery, perhaps you could enlighten me?

Clearly keeping the battery charged is extremely important for longevity. But our cars charging system is more than capable of doing that for a daily driver.

For cars that are used less frequently, then a supplemental power source is a great idea.
 

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I'm not sure why you think the SS charging system won't fully charge the battery, perhaps you could enlighten me?

Clearly keeping the battery charged is extremely important for longevity. But our cars charging system is more than capable of doing that for a daily driver.

For cars that are used less frequently, then a supplemental power source is a great idea.
Which brings this conversation to an interesting question. What percentage of owners drive their SS daily? I'm going to speculate less than half. And given the number of people who have had to change their batteries in less than 4 years leads me to believe the charging system on these cars isn't as up to par as one would hope.
Now we all know if we leave these cars sit for a period of time, (and it doesn't need to be very long) the batteries will go dead. There is obviously a higher drain on these units than normal compared to other cars. Either that, or these AGM batteries aren't as durable as a regular lead acid ones are. I do suspect that AGM batteries require closer monitoring and care than a lead acid does, but there still must be other issues causing the short life we see.

Something worth mentioning on charging is don't charge your AGM battery when its warm. Some sources state that if the AGM battery is over 120 degrees not to charge it at all. Heat is deadly on AGM batteries and if charged with a non-temperature compensating charger will likely over-charge it and turn it into a brick. This may have some bearing for the OP dealing with his Arizona temperatures and his battery in the trunk. The temps in the trunk may not be a hot as under the hood, but that still would be a far cry from cool. Try getting your car someplace where the temp is close to 80 deg and then put a good smart charger on it for 6-8 hours. That should help your battery out a lot.
 

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I would guess (if it's a quiz) that 80-90% of SS's are daily drivers.

Any lead-acid battery will deteriorate when not stored fully charged or be allowed to self discharge over a long period.

But, AGM batteries were originally developed for the military are far more durable than regular flooded batteries. They can be discharged deeper, have a much lower self discharge rate, etc., etc.

Which brings this conversation to an interesting question. What percentage of owners drive their SS daily? I'm going to speculate less than half. And given the number of people who have had to change their batteries in less than 4 years leads me to believe the charging system on these cars isn't as up to par as one would hope.
Now we all know if we leave these cars sit for a period of time, (and it doesn't need to be very long) the batteries will go dead. There is obviously a higher drain on these units than normal compared to other cars. Either that, or these AGM batteries aren't as durable as a regular lead acid ones are. I do suspect that AGM batteries require closer monitoring and care than a lead acid does, but there still must be other issues causing the short life we see.
 

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Heat is indeed a killer of lead-acid batteries. As a rule of thumb, for every 10ºC increase in operating temperature, battery life decreases by around 50%

The SS's charging system fully understands the needs of an AGM battery and compensates for many situations including battery temperature.

Something worth mentioning on charging is don't charge your AGM battery when its warm. Some sources state that if the AGM battery is over 120 degrees not to charge it at all. Heat is deadly on AGM batteries and if charged with a non-temperature compensating charger will likely over-charge it and turn it into a brick. This may have some bearing for the OP dealing with his Arizona temperatures and his battery in the trunk. The temps in the trunk may not be a hot as under the hood, but that still would be a far cry from cool. Try getting your car someplace where the temp is close to 80 deg and then put a good smart charger on it for 6-8 hours. That should help your battery out a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'm not sure why you think the SS charging system won't fully charge the battery, perhaps you could enlighten me?

Clearly keeping the battery charged is extremely important for longevity. But our cars charging system is more than capable of doing that for a daily driver.

For cars that are used less frequently, then a supplemental power source is a great idea.


I agree with you 100%.
However I do not have the energy like you and CB750 to try and correct the people that quote electrical voodoo because they don't even understand Ohm's law...
 

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If you put a new battery in how long and far do you need to go. Put one in fire it up go to store 10 mile round trip park it let set fee days do same again.
That's what I don't know but I do know if I start with a fully charged battery it will be easier
For it to stay fully charged.
z51vett
Doug
 

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The battery in my G8 lasted 8 years, 4 of them in SoCal and the last 4 in Phoenix.
 
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Discussion Starter #29
If you put a new battery in how long and far do you need to go. Put one in fire it up go to store 10 mile round trip park it let set fee days do same again.
That's what I don't know but I do know if I start with a fully charged battery it will be easier
For it to stay fully charged.
z51vett
Doug
I agree that a new and unused battery should be fully charged before it is used and have a ctek charger for that purpose.


Since our SS is a daily driver it will not need supplemental charging after it has been installed.


All I am trying to do is figure out a schedule for regular battery replacement before any failure occurs. I don't care if there is a little life left in the battery when it is replaced, I just want to replace the battery when it is convenient for me.
 

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Thats like picking today's 'pick 4" number ...
 

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That being said I find with my low mileage use (SS, SRX, Yukons) I get a "battery bad replace battery" and the warranty code between 3- 4 years even though it exhibits no symptoms of failing except seeing 14.9+ on the DIC almost continually.
 

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That being said I find with my low mileage use (SS, SRX, Yukons) I get a "battery bad replace battery" and the warranty code between 3- 4 years even though it exhibits no symptoms of failing except seeing 14.9+ on the DIC almost continually.
What should the normal reading in the DIC be for a Daily Driver SS? Thanks!
 

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What should the normal reading in the DIC be for a Daily Driver SS? Thanks!
I'm not typing it all out since it varies with many factors.

TO follow the KISS principle ... you should see 13.9 or less on a fully charged battery that is accepting and holding a charge well.

Leave the DIC set to voltage all the time and watch it vary. You will get the 'feel' after a week or 2.
 

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What should the normal reading in the DIC be for a Daily Driver SS? Thanks!
I'm not typing it all out since it varies with many factors.

TO follow the KISS principle ... you should see 13.9 or less on a fully charged battery that is accepting and holding a charge well.

Leave the DIC set to voltage all the time and watch it vary. You will get the 'feel' after a week or 2.
Thanks CB750! The KISS principal was exactly what I was asking for. That I understand. I usually keep the DIC on tire pressure screen, but I'll switch back n forth now to get an idea for the voltage like you recommended. Thanks for explaining it so us simple folk could understand it. Very much appreciated!
 

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Thanks CB750! The KISS principal was exactly what I was asking for. That I understand. I usually keep the DIC on tire pressure screen, but I'll switch back n forth now to get an idea for the voltage like you recommended. Thanks for explaining it so us simple folk could understand it. Very much appreciated!
Just be forewarned, the voltage bounces around. You will see everything from 12.5 to 15.3 depending on a complicated set of circumstances. It is best to leave the voltage on continuously for at least a week so you can get the 'feel' ...

If you haven't read this yet read it; the charging system is complicated:

https://www.ssforums.com/forum/atta...8d1448748107-dead-battery-charging-system.pdf
 

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Thanks CB750! The KISS principal was exactly what I was asking for. That I understand. I usually keep the DIC on tire pressure screen, but I'll switch back n forth now to get an idea for the voltage like you recommended. Thanks for explaining it so us simple folk could understand it. Very much appreciated!
Just be forewarned, the voltage bounces around. You will see everything from 12.5 to 15.3 depending on a complicated set of circumstances. It is best to leave the voltage on continuously for at least a week so you can get the 'feel' ...

If you haven't read this yet read it; the charging system is complicated:

https://www.ssforums.com/forum/atta...8d1448748107-dead-battery-charging-system.pdf
Thanks yet again kind sir! I downloaded that from one of your previous posts. I'll try and read it, but I'm sure most of it will go over my head. Very glad and thankful to have so many knowledgeable people on the Forum to answer my questions!
 

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YES, heat kills batteries. Simple, but, not always at the same rate. Lead-acid batteries like to remain fully charged, that's why you see the specific conditions triggering charging system operation in CB750s posted document. AGM does not necessarily mean longer life - don't expect it. You can expect shorter life if: 1) battery sits unused, 2) especially if battery sits with small draw (why does your vehicle have transport mode?) or 3) it experiences higher temperatures. For the vehicle charging system to work, the vehicle must be in operation.


Remember, the automobile manufacturer really does want the battery to last the warranty. See CB750s reference to cost per failure. Vehicle charging systems now are relatively sophisticated compared to the past decades. Hold on though, they're going to become much more so in the next few years.


Why do you find new batteries not fully charged? Charging a battery takes time and energy. Both of those can be quantified in $. A battery manufacturer can save a buck by shipping the battery NOT fully charged. It's expected your vehicle, or charger, or .... will charge the battery in operation. You will likely never buy a lead-acid battery fully charged, unless the reseller puts it on the charger correctly before you pick it up. Laws are coming (California first) about energy required to charge lead-acid batteries in some applications, i.e. golf carts.


What's the best battery? Generally, for life considerations, it's the HEAVIEST that suits your applications. So, how much weight do you want in your trunk?


What's the best possible way to reduce your risk of sudden death battery syndrome? Replace your battery when it's warranty is up.


BMW likes to sell chargers and recommends their use. Think this through, many of their vehicles sold in North America are not daily drivers. And, I believe they've sold the CTEK with their name blazed across the units.
 

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Soooo remember when I said I had the original battery and <8,000 miles? Took her in for her last b-b checkup and right off the bat my service guy said I needed a new battery when he cranked it. I’d just had the charger on it not 2 weeks ago.
 
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