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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys.

Sorry in advance for the length of this – just want this to be complete, and am hoping this can help some other SS owners as they begin to rack up the miles (I’m nearing 70k miles).

Looking some help/input on a suspension issue (and potential fixes). I’ve researched and would appreciate your thoughts.

I’m planning on having my 15 year old son (who LOVES the SS) help me w/ the fix so he can learn and gain some experience wrenching, so please factor that in to your advice on ways forward. I’m not opposed to spending additional money (e.g. coilovers) if it gets him some experience working on cars w/ Dad (and make the overall job easier).

Some detail on my car I think can help w/ diagnosis and solutions. I have a 2014 that I bought 3 years ago w/ 32k miles on it. It was already lowered on Eibach springs, and I believe they had been on there approx. 10k miles at the time. I now have 68k miles on the car. So, I’m coming up on roughly 50k miles on the lowered setup. I believe the front struts and rear shocks are OEM originals, and I don’t believe the front strut bushings were replaced at the time the lowering springs were put on.

The issue: I’ve noticed over the last 6 months that the front of the car doesn’t absorb bumps as well and seems to ride rougher. The rear seems to be fine. I don’t get any creaking or clunking when turning the wheel but if I hit a more severe bump in the road, I get a bit of a clunk in the front.

My conclusion: I think the most likely answer is that my bushings/bearings are toast and need replacing. I considered whether the OEM struts and shocks were gone but I think they are fine – car seems to ride just fine otherwise, though I get a bit more roll now in the turns than I remember when I first got the car.

Solution options (I want to keep my lowered stance, and I plan on having a shop compress the springs and reassemble – don’t think I want to mess around w/ trying to compress them w/ my son.)
  • Replace the front bushings (open to recommendations for bushings – OEM (durability?), Whiteline (worth the price of $250ish?), others?)
  • Replace the front bushings and the struts (or go w/ aftermarket; just in case the OEM struts are toast as well)
    • Haven’t priced this out. Would likely replace rear shocks at the same time.
    • Is the Monroe GT Sport the only option out there for struts and shocks that are designed to go w/ lowering springs?
  • Go w/ a coilover setup on all four wheels (like the Pedders kit for $1,200-ish, eXtreme XA Coilover Kit - Chevrolet SS PED-160094)
    • Going the coilover route would ease the install on the front – no spring compression job (save $), just slide out the old assembly, slide in the new coilover assembly. Not sure what it would require in the rears???
Thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice.

I'll post up pics of the tops of my struts "caps" in a few minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here’s a pic of driver and passenger side.
E0AD6A65-56A3-478A-82E1-6A3175DAF218.jpeg
A472E404-48C2-4B70-B7F8-9A9DF44185A4.jpeg
 

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The bushings do not look collapsed.

With 70K the front struts are nearing the end of their life. Yeah some think they last longer; but remember back when we replaced conventional shocks @ 50K and noticed a HUGE difference in ride quality/performance. Lowering springs will accelerate the wear on the struts.

Do it once; do it right. Struts, bushings, hardware and sway bar links ....

Get that new car performance back.

It is up to you to use the OEM stut bushings; Esindon will chime in on which aftermarket; but be aware the ride will stiffen.

OEM struts are Lifetime warranty. Since the bushings and sway bar links are chassis parts it is worth investigating if they are lifetime also.





Back in the day when I was a road warrior I replaced shocks and sway bar links every 50 - 60k (1 year) and the difference was astounding. Lifetime shock warranty made it painless wallet wise.
 

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Chiming in here!!!

The go to standard here is the Whiteline parts!! Pedders and BMR make em too!! The stock units are not completely terrible either, but the aftermarket units have seemingly got a better rap!

Give Joe over at SS/G8 Only a call. He stocks all of these parts, usually in house for quick delivery. With my car having JUST made it out of B to B warranty,,, the Whiteline parts will make their way on to mine at some point in the not terribly distant future. My sons G8 will get em as well.

;)
 

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... With 70K the front struts are nearing the end of their life. Yeah some think they last longer; but remember back when we replaced conventional shocks @ 50K and noticed a HUGE difference in ride quality/performance. ...
I know your comment was made in reference to the 2014 suspension (i.e. non-magride), but I wondered of you had any opinion on the expected lifetime of the magride struts on the 15-17 models ?
This is of course barring a premature failure (from leakage, etc.).
 

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Magneride shocks have no internal parts to wear out. (No internal seals or valves) and thus their damping performance does not decline with time/use. i.e. They should theoretically last for the life of the vehicle.
 

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Magneride shocks have no internal parts to wear out. (No internal seals or valves) and thus their damping performance does not decline with time/use. i.e. They should theoretically last for the life of the vehicle.
This is my first car with magneride, and that's pretty much in line with what I had been thinking, but IDK if it actually plays out in the real world or not.
 

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Magneride shocks have no internal parts to wear out. (No internal seals or valves) and thus their damping performance does not decline with time/use. i.e. They should theoretically last for the life of the vehicle.
Clarification ... correct.

"External seal" IE: external leaking of the mag fluid is the only "wear" item.

An internal electrical failure is also possible but rare.
 

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I've seen a couple fail and give a code, and the weren't leaking. The were Cadillac used as limos, both had over 100k.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
The bushings do not look collapsed.

With 70K the front struts are nearing the end of their life. Yeah some think they last longer; but remember back when we replaced conventional shocks @ 50K and noticed a HUGE difference in ride quality/performance. Lowering springs will accelerate the wear on the struts.

Do it once; do it right. Struts, bushings, hardware and sway bar links ....

Get that new car performance back.

It is up to you to use the OEM stut bushings; Esindon will chime in on which aftermarket; but be aware the ride will stiffen.

OEM struts are Lifetime warranty. Since the bushings and sway bar links are chassis parts it is worth investigating if they are lifetime also.





Back in the day when I was a road warrior I replaced shocks and sway bar links every 50 - 60k (1 year) and the difference was astounding. Lifetime shock warranty made it painless wallet wise.
Very helpful info - thx! Lifetime warranty is definitely a consideration.


Chiming in here!!!

The go to standard here is the Whiteline parts!! Pedders and BMR make em too!! The stock units are not completely terrible either, but the aftermarket units have seemingly got a better rap!

Give Joe over at SS/G8 Only a call. He stocks all of these parts, usually in house for quick delivery. With my car having JUST made it out of B to B warranty,,, the Whiteline parts will make their way on to mine at some point in the not terribly distant future. My sons G8 will get em as well.

;)
Thank you for chiming in. Trying to understand — are there particular parts you would recommend from those manufacturers?

Thx for lead on SS Only — I’ll give Joe a call.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This is my first car with magneride, and that's pretty much in line with what I had been thinking, but IDK if it actually plays out in the real world or not.
I have a 2013 Corvette and my left rear magnaride shock was leaking and I had to replace. Unfortunately the replacement leaked as well so I got to do that job twice!
 
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Hi, I read your post and I did exactly what you did, a father/son repair with my fourteen year old son.
Last March/April I replaced both front strut mounts with SuperPro for this same issue.
Here is where I ordered them (fast service with correct parts even with Covid19 starting):
(Chevrolet Ss 2015 | Suspension.com)

SuperPro is from Australia for the holden and they actually have two formulations, one that is poly only like Whiteline, and the other that I chose is Polylast which isn't as harsh. After replacement I noticed no increased harshness but my car felt tighter again when driving.

The front strut mounts/bushings in my car at 60K looked like your second photo, one side was worse than the other. When I took them out the stock ones were shorter than the replacement.

I added my information to an existing post and documented with some photos and a description of the process I used.
Read this thread: (Strut Mounts Issues? - Opinions wanted)

It was a fairly easy repair with the only questions at the end are whether the bolts were on-time-use and should have been replaced. I defer to the service manual for that one...though I will say I never changed them and now that I am back in the states and drove the car 1000 miles across country I have no failures and no complaints.

As far as the Mag-ride shocks, I've only replaced one on the left rear. It blew last December and was a much more involved repair. The other struts are doing fine though I'm finally seeing a bit o seepage on the right rear. I expect I'll get another 6months or few thousand miles of steady driving on it before I have to replace it. No observed issues on either of the front struts at the time I replaced the mounts.
 

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Clarification ... correct.

"External seal" IE: external leaking of the mag fluid is the only "wear" item.

An internal electrical failure is also possible but rare.
Ah - makes sense. Me and my buddy just replaced one on his C6...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi, I read your post and I did exactly what you did, a father/son repair with my fourteen year old son.
Last March/April I replaced both front strut mounts with SuperPro for this same issue.
Here is where I ordered them (fast service with correct parts even with Covid19 starting):
(Chevrolet Ss 2015 | Suspension.com)

SuperPro is from Australia for the holden and they actually have two formulations, one that is poly only like Whiteline, and the other that I chose is Polylast which isn't as harsh. After replacement I noticed no increased harshness but my car felt tighter again when driving.

The front strut mounts/bushings in my car at 60K looked like your second photo, one side was worse than the other. When I took them out the stock ones were shorter than the replacement.

I added my information to an existing post and documented with some photos and a description of the process I used.
Read this thread: (Strut Mounts Issues? - Opinions wanted)

It was a fairly easy repair with the only questions at the end are whether the bolts were on-time-use and should have been replaced. I defer to the service manual for that one...though I will say I never changed them and now that I am back in the states and drove the car 1000 miles across country I have no failures and no complaints.

As far as the Mag-ride shocks, I've only replaced one on the left rear. It blew last December and was a much more involved repair. The other struts are doing fine though I'm finally seeing a bit o seepage on the right rear. I expect I'll get another 6months or few thousand miles of steady driving on it before I have to replace it. No observed issues on either of the front struts at the time I replaced the mounts.
Thank you! I read your entire post and the linked thread - very helpful! Yep, sounds like you had what I am experiencing. I hadn’t thought about the sway bar end links so I’ll be sure to check them as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I called Joe as SSOnly -- very helpful! Thank you for that advice.

I'm in the process of getting my plan of attack together and need some input on how to check the condition of the front sway bar end links. I've searched but I'm coming up empty on the proper procedure. I have a Quickjack to get the car up in the air. Do I get the car up in the air and then put a scissor jack under one of the lower control arms, say the drivers side, to compress the strut a bit and THEN disconnect the link that connects to the lower control arm and test the "stud" for play? Or should I start w/ the end that connects to the strut? Do I have to compress the strut on the passenger side at the same time? I'm getting myself confused on the "load" on the sway bar itself and if that is going to affect reassembly.
 

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I used a lift and didn't have any issues with the sway bar when I loosened the struts on both sides. As to your jack I imagine it's fine do as you said except compress both struts slightly, either with a pair of jacks or compress slight one side with a jack stand and then use a jack on the other side. There was some info innother threads about jack points you might look up first. That being said I imagine if you are slow and deliberate about how much you compress until the tension lessens in the links the method will work fine and then unbolt from either side. Personally I'd I did it again I'd just order a new pair of links and bushings and do it all at the same time. As the cost of replacement links from the website wasn't to bad to me.
 

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I used a lift and didn't have any issues with the sway bar when I loosened the struts on both sides. As to your jack I imagine it's fine do as you said except compress both struts slightly, either with a pair of jacks or compress slight one side with a jack stand and then use a jack on the other side. There was some info innother threads about jack points you might look up first. That being said I imagine if you are slow and deliberate about how much you compress until the tension lessens in the links the method will work fine and then unbolt from either side. Personally I'd I did it again I'd just order a new pair of links and bushings and do it all at the same time. As the cost of replacement links from the website wasn't to bad to me.
The Quickjack will get all four wheels off the ground at the same time. I plan to compress the lower control arm using a scissor jack on the floor to ease the tension slightly for loosening the nut on the top of the strut tower as well as the end links. Yes, sir, I'll be doing new end links while I'm in. New bushings come w/ the coilovers I'm going to go with.
 

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I would try to disconnect and reconnect the end links when the car is on the QuickJack, first without a separate jack under the control arm. If they don't come off easy then I would try to jack just a bit under one arm or the other, whichever side relieves any remaining small windup in the stabilizer bar. Theoretically should not need the separate jack for the end links.
 
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