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2016 Chevy SS, SSB, 6MT, Slicktop
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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a supercharged SS this past July. It is setup with a Procharger D1SC with 3-row intercooler, ID1000’s, aggressive cam (poorly spec’d, more for an NA motor), springs & pushrods, trunnion upgrage (maybe), and Monster Clutch & flywheel. Dynoed 706 whp on a glory pull, but I'm guessing it was tuned for 600-650 whp when I got it. Well, I dropped a piston this past weekend so it’s time to build her right.

This is a daily driver in Montana that may see an occasional drag strip or autocross event a few times during the summer. My goal is to build the motor strong enough to be very reliable at the limits of the D1SC & ID1000s on 91 pump gas. Builder thinks the supercharger and injectors would max out at 800-900whp. Unfortunately, no E85 available anywhere around here. And I don’t plan to use meth, again because daily driver.

I’m planning to do forged pistons and rods, main studs, 1/2” head studs, fuel system (leaning towards DSX Aux Kit), new (properly spec’d) cam, new springs & pushrods, and trunnion upgrade if needed. I haven't talked static compression ratio with the builder yet, but I imagine we'll probably try to stay pretty low because of the poor quality gas here.

I think I’m going to stick with stock displacement and reuse the stock crank instead of going stroker. Builder says stock crank will be good to way over the power levels I’ll be achieving. While I like torque, I love how the procharger builds power linearly and maintains good traction down low. I was able to keep traction with WOT blast with 285 PS4S’s. I will probably have the builder create a 2nd tune that is detuned as much as possible (in conjunction with a larger pulley) for winter driving to keep the car manageable in the snow.

Some questions I have for the brain trust here are:
Should I do an larger OD crank pulley so I can keep my charger pulley (the smaller summer pulley) as large as possible for good belt wrap?

Should I have the stock heads ported? I figure since I’m limited by 91 pump gas, I’ll want as much flow through the motor and as little backpressure as possible to prevent detonation.

Is an aftermarket oil cooler recommended at this power level?

Any fuel system recommendations besides the DSX Aux kit for this power level?

The builder is scheduled out quite a while so we haven’t nailed everything down on specs yet. While I wait for that time, is there anything else you all would recommend I do as part of the build. While I don’t have an unlimited budget, I definitely don’t want to cut any corners or leave anything out. Buy once, cry once.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or input! I'm a beginner at all of this.
 

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You can either get the stock heads ported or pick up some CNC aftermarket heads. I know my friend mailed his heads out for porting work for his C5Z to somewhere in the Carolinas and they did great work but took forever.

I would stick with the stock crank pulley OD and maybe get an ATI so the stock pulley failure issue is not present if its a daily type. I don't imagine there is a lot of belt slip at the levels you are talking about with a quality belt? Someone else can chime in who has more experience here. But that is the route I am going with my LS swap 6.0 [CNC heads/cam/DOD deleted] and a heartbeat 2300.
 

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2016 Chevy SS, SSB, 6MT, Slicktop
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Discussion Starter #4
IMO you need a car that is basically stock as a daily driver, especially driving in winter.
Do you mean from an engine reliability standpoint, or from a drivability standpoint? This car did great this past winter with studded snow tires and a little weight in the trunk. Better than most AWD vehicles with all season tires.

I'm a glutton for punishment. I like modified vehicles. I guess I should clarify that I do have other vehicles I can drive but this is my primary vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would stick with the stock crank pulley OD and maybe get an ATI so the stock pulley failure issue is not present if its a daily type. I don't imagine there is a lot of belt slip at the levels you are talking about with a quality belt? Someone else can chime in who has more experience here. But that is the route I am going with my LS swap 6.0 [CNC heads/cam/DOD deleted] and a heartbeat 2300.
I guess I thought if I was pushing the D1SC to higher boost levels or close to "maxing it out", that I'd be using a pretty small pulley and belt slip would be a concern. Maybe I'm worrying about a non-issue. Is there any downside to going with a larger crank pulley, aside from cost and making sure not to overspin the procharger? Thanks for the toughts.
 

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Everyone has an opinion and here's mine. If you're going to replace the rods and pistons it's not that much more expensive to replace the crank. The stock crank is a tough piece but you already have the engine torn down.
 
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Whole new engine, a 419 or something like that. All forged internals, or an LSX 454, yeah buddy!
 

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From experience...
4 corner steam vents, and full forge all the way. I did not do a crank. Definitely would have if I knew then... stroked with oil spray cylinders. My D1x feels like a perfect match now but I would have gone with the quiet gear set. Make very certain your builder is building for boost with adequate ring clearance and bullet proof lifters. Definitely an ATI lower Pulley. They are bigger too. My stock lower failed on the dyno. Maybe installation issues but needless to say, the nitrous put everything into the danger zone. I'm not using nitrous or testing with it currently but it is calibrated and ready to turn on always for when I want to go to kill again. This time with alcohol. I used it once to smoke a hellcat.
Get ready for the never ending upgrades to follow.
Guys like 750 will tell you, don't think you can just add more power without matching capabilities throughout the entire system. If you aren't willing to break the bank, do not shoot for the stars. I've been running and testing the new flex fuel for a couple weeks now. On corn the mileage sucks. I have not gone back to pump gas yet and only hope the tune comps back to a reasonable mileage figure. My current tuner has always stayed on the safe side with extra fuel and pulling timing to avoid detonation. Maybe back to 15 plus instead of 10 or 11 mpg currently running in 70% E range.
The power gains are remarkable and so far worth the trade offs.
It was fast on pump fuel and low boost. With 1.7 60 ft and 11.3 - 11.4 on the first time out with only a few passes logged so far. Traction was still a factor on the big end even with 305 M/T ss radials.
Now we are into a new level of power and with any luck and stiction low 10s will be very attainable.
You will find that the time it takes to complete every step of the build is almost unbearable. And expect some set backs.
I drive my car daily but will not be using it in the winter cold and snow months. There is no reason put the procharger into the thermal stresses of freezing temps and heat cycles of that extreme. It is not recommended considering clearances and expansion rates of the aluminum housing and steel internals.

Back to your engine, intercooler, catch can and procharger upgrade (look at upgrading your d1s, procharger does it) to keep IAT's down and require less boost pressure. Everything you are thinking for flow makes the system happy.
Torque converter and major trans upgrade are also essential.
Now for me drive shaft back is a must. That is the way it is. Nothing on these cars is engineered to handle the power you will make. I am one of those guys that should practice what I preach and just finish off the rest of the drive train now. It just takes too long to complete and I'm not willing to give up the car another two months plus. Or even pretend I have the time or space to do it myself. So, with some careful low impact tracking (jumbo shrimp) and allowing for wheel slippage (not wheelhop) on the street, I intend to see if I can keep the back half from failing this summer. Expect the "told you so" and all that. For now, the smiles per mile over rule total prudence.

Prochargers like rpms even if you do a crank (stroked), stress balancing and high rpm capabilities. You will over rev.
It's also OK to bump compression a bit. Diamond makes a good match for this package.
Cam for success. Look at proven sources like a Tooley 1.5 boost cam to match the procharger strengths and weekness. Second opinions matter. Good luck.

I'm not sure about modifying a daily driver to these extents unless you don't need it as your daily driver. Expect the best but prepare for the worst! Time for work.

.
 

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From experience...
4 corner steam vents, and full forge all the way. I did not do a crank. Definitely would have if I knew then... stroked with oil spray cylinders. My D1x feels like a perfect match now but I would have gone with the quiet gear set. Make very certain your builder is building for boost with adequate ring clearance and bullet proof lifters. Definitely an ATI lower Pulley. They are bigger too. My stock lower failed on the dyno. Maybe installation issues but needless to say, the nitrous put everything into the danger zone. I'm not using nitrous or testing with it currently but it is calibrated and ready to turn on always for when I want to go to kill again. This time with alcohol. I used it once to smoke a hellcat.
Get ready for the never ending upgrades to follow.
Guys like 750 will tell you, don't think you can just add more power without matching capabilities throughout the entire system. If you aren't willing to break the bank, do not shoot for the stars. I've been running and testing the new flex fuel for a couple weeks now. On corn the mileage sucks. I have not gone back to pump gas yet and only hope the tune comps back to a reasonable mileage figure. My current tuner has always stayed on the safe side with extra fuel and pulling timing to avoid detonation. Maybe back to 15 plus instead of 10 or 11 mpg currently running in 70% E range.
The power gains are remarkable and so far worth the trade offs.
It was fast on pump fuel and low boost. With 1.7 60 ft and 11.3 - 11.4 on the first time out with only a few passes logged so far. Traction was still a factor on the big end even with 305 M/T ss radials.
Now we are into a new level of power and with any luck and stiction low 10s will be very attainable.
You will find that the time it takes to complete every step of the build is almost unbearable. And expect some set backs.
I drive my car daily but will not be using it in the winter cold and snow months. There is no reason put the procharger into the thermal stresses of freezing temps and heat cycles of that extreme. It is not recommended considering clearances and expansion rates of the aluminum housing and steel internals.

Back to your engine, intercooler, catch can and procharger upgrade (look at upgrading your d1s, procharger does it) to keep IAT's down and require less boost pressure. Everything you are thinking for flow makes the system happy.
Torque converter and major trans upgrade are also essential.
Now for me drive shaft back is a must. That is the way it is. Nothing on these cars is engineered to handle the power you will make. I am one of those guys that should practice what I preach and just finish off the rest of the drive train now. It just takes too long to complete and I'm not willing to give up the car another two months plus. Or even pretend I have the time or space to do it myself. So, with some careful low impact tracking (jumbo shrimp) and allowing for wheel slippage (not wheelhop) on the street, I intend to see if I can keep the back half from failing this summer. Expect the "told you so" and all that. For now, the smiles per mile over rule total prudence.

Prochargers like rpms even if you do a crank (stroked), stress balancing and high rpm capabilities. You will over rev.
It's also OK to bump compression a bit. Diamond makes a good match for this package.
Cam for success. Look at proven sources like a Tooley 1.5 boost cam to match the procharger strengths and weekness. Second opinions matter. Good luck.

I'm not sure about modifying a daily driver to these extents unless you don't need it as your daily driver. Expect the best but prepare for the worst! Time for work.

.
Nailed it


I’m also in the may as well since it’s open crowd. That’s how I ended up with the 415 (now a 417) in the beginning - figured that a better crank worth a 4” stroke didn’t cost so much it didn’t make sense, plus it was keyed for the ATI that I fully intended to install.

I rebuilt my 6L80 with better clutches, piston upgrades and a 300M intermediate shaft (my stock one snapped like a twig). I have a single piece driveshaft...I’d prefer a beefed up two piece for less vibration though. I have a Camaro SS 8.6 with a TruTrac and GForce ‘1500hp’ Renegade axles.

Just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you all for your suggestions. A big thanks to Trackdaddy for the thorough post!

If you aren't willing to break the bank, do not shoot for the stars.
Sage advice!!

4 corner steam vents
By this do you mean street tires to allow for wheel slip and protect the drivetrain? Haven't heard this expression before.

I'm intrigued by those recommending a forged crank, even for stock stoke length. Is this to bullet proof bottom end that much more, and at basically parts cost since it is open? I believe my builder said stock crank was good up to 1500 hp-ish, and that if I wasn't stroking, it was probably an unnecessary expense. Is he being overly optimistic on the strength and durability of the stock crank?

Back to your engine, intercooler, catch can and procharger upgrade (look at upgrading your d1s, procharger does it) to keep IAT's down and require less boost pressure.
Already have an elite catch can. Is an intercooler upgrade from the 3-row procharger intercooler recommended?
For the procharger upgrade are you saying to look into upgrading to the D1X? If the unit needs a rebuild, I'll definitely look at this.

For trans upgrades, I have a Monster LT1-S triple disc supposedly rated to 1,000 hp, slightly lighter flexplate, and an MGW shifter. At some point perhaps I'll look at strengthening the TR6060, but it seems like the rest of the drivetrain is weak link. I'm looking into a Camaro SS diff, LPW cover, Tru Trac, and driveshaft. Though that'll probably not happen this summer. It may have to wait another season.

Prochargers like rpms even if you do a crank (stroked), stress balancing and high rpm capabilities. You will over rev.
What do you mean by I will over rev? As in I'll want to bump the rev limit? Or that I'll be overspinning the D1SC?
I do like the procharger's characteristic of building power all the way to redline.

A couple more questions for any of you. Any downsides to a larger crank pulley? Also, I assume a C5-R timing chain is a no brainer while it is pulled apart?

Thanks for all the input!
 

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4 corner steam vent is the crossover tube on the heads. They make one that goes to the rear corners in addition to the two in front you already have
 
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Discussion Starter #12
4 corner steam vent is the crossover tube on the heads. They make one that goes to the rear corners in addition to the two in front you already have
Thanks for clearing that up for me. Hadn't heard of that before.
 
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