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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2008-2012 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L-6.2L Long Tube Tri-Y Headers

Just wonder if anyone has used these on their SS, for the price hard to beat being ceramic coated????

Has a smaller than 3 inch collector and bolts directly to the stock exhaust.

The web site states they fit the 14 thru 15 SS sedan.
 

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Hum..... B.
 

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Do they know the oil cooler is a different configuration than the VE platform?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do they know the oil cooler is a different configuration than the VE platform?
No idea what you are talking about.....:serious
 

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Some headers for the G8 (VE platform) will hit the oil cooler on the SS (VF platform).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some headers for the G8 (VE platform) will hit the oil cooler on the SS (VF platform).
Good to know, will not get these until I know they fit, or say screw it, and go with ARH full length headers.
 

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These are the ones that I would get,...if they were Kali-Legal. tsk,tsk,tsk.

I had them on my 454-SS but they had the CARB # on them, I guess because the cats were further back in the stock position and didn't have to be moved.
 
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They fit nice, quality seems excellent.

The headers attach to the factory exhaust at the factory flanged donut gasket before the secondary cats. You reuse the donut gaskets. The kit contains 4 new bolts and nuts to make up the connection.

To help provide room to wiggle the headers around while you are starting/putting the new header bolts thru the headers and into tue heads it is best before you start, to push (or sledge hammer) the factory exhaust rearward after separating both sides from the factory mid pipes. If you don’t do this, when you are aligning the headers, the collectors hit the factory exhaust and cannot be properly aligned easily.

Take pictures of the routing of the oil dip stick tube from above and below before pulling the tube out. The pictures will simplify finding out where/how exactly to slide the tube down and into position. For removal, it just slides out, but you have to wiggle it allot and pull up...mine finally did come out.

I did not need to remove the steering wheel shaft to install the drivers side header.

The passenger front O2 sensor connector cannot be reached by hand from above or below on my car. I used a long steel bar (about 30” long x 1/4” x 1”) to reach up from below and pry the connector from its push-pin fixation to its bracket. Once off the bracket the connector had some slack from the wires above which gave room for it to move down so that I could reach it and disconnect it from below. I was able to disconnect the drivers side by hand.




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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
They fit nice, quality seems excellent.

The headers attach to the factory exhaust at the factory flanged donut gasket before the secondary cats. You reuse the donut gaskets. The kit contains 4 new bolts and nuts to make up the connection.

To help provide room to wiggle the headers around while you are starting/putting the new header bolts thru the headers and into tue heads it is best before you start, to push (or sledge hammer) the factory exhaust rearward after separating both sides from the factory mid pipes. If you don’t do this, when you are aligning the headers, the collectors hit the factory exhaust and cannot be properly aligned easily.

Take pictures of the routing of the oil dip stick tube from above and below before pulling the tube out. The pictures will simplify finding out where/how exactly to slide the tube down and into position. For removal, it just slides out, but you have to wiggle it allot and pull up...mine finally did come out.

I did not need to remove the steering wheel shaft to install the drivers side header.
Many thanks for this post, was waiting to hear about a first hand install.

The price for being ceramic coated is hard to beat, and something that bolts up to the stock exhaust, and something I could do myself, and these will give a performance boost.

Seriously now considering these headers.....:serious
 

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They fit nice, quality seems excellent.

The headers attach to the factory exhaust at the factory flanged donut gasket before the secondary cats. You reuse the donut gaskets. The kit contains 4 new bolts and nuts to make up the connection.

To help provide room to wiggle the headers around while you are starting/putting the new header bolts thru the headers and into tue heads it is best before you start, to push (or sledge hammer) the factory exhaust rearward after separating both sides from the factory mid pipes. If you don’t do this, when you are aligning the headers, the collectors hit the factory exhaust and cannot be properly aligned easily.

Take pictures of the routing of the oil dip stick tube from above and below before pulling the tube out. The pictures will simplify finding out where/how exactly to slide the tube down and into position. For removal, it just slides out, but you have to wiggle it allot and pull up...mine finally did come out.

I did not need to remove the steering wheel shaft to install the drivers side header.

The passenger front O2 sensor connector cannot be reached by hand from above or below on my car. I used a long steel bar (about 30” long x 1/4” x 1”) to reach up from below and pry the connector from its push-pin fixation to its bracket. Once off the bracket the connector had some slack from the wires above which gave room for it to move down so that I could reach it and disconnect it from below. I was able to disconnect the drivers side by hand.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many thanks for sharing this info. Any chance you could post an audio sample? I'm dying to know how they sound with the retention of the H-pipe section (not a particular fan of X-pipes).




.
 

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Please be gentle, this is the first video I have ever uploaded to YouTube.

This is a short video from the rear after the header install.

 

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Please be gentle, this is the first video I have ever uploaded to YouTube.

This is a short video from the rear after the header install.

https://youtu.be/fVMwLuQ0YhI
Ummmm.... Could've used a couple of revs in there, just get an idea of how it would sound at "above idle"...

And a 2.25" collector - that can't be right, can it??? :blink: I could maybe see 2.5, but 2.25 sure seems pretty small...
 

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Ummmm.... Could've used a couple of revs in there, just get an idea of how it would sound at "above idle"...

And a 2.25" collector - that can't be right, can it??? :blink: I could maybe see 2.5, but 2.25 sure seems pretty small...

Yeah, a couple revs would have been nice, but beggars can't be choosers. He did great for a first time video post. :wink


I think the 2-1/4" collector size may actually be correct simply going by the pics of the actual headers:
(remember, the primaries are 1-3/4")

 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think the 2-1/4" collector size may actually be correct simply going by the pics of the actual headers:
(remember, the primaries are 1-3/4")
Could be 2-1/4 because they do bolt up to the stock pipes going to the rear.
 
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Could be 2-1/4 because they do bolt up to the stock pipes going to the rear.


Yessir. I pulled the trigger on them because, they were a direct, perfect fit, bolt on. I also like the price and the tri-Y design is intelligent when you look at the design vs the LS firing order.... and unless you are planning to go with a larger than stock cat-back, IMHO theres not much benefit to having a set of headers with a larger 3” collector just to neck down into the stock cat back.

I don’t have a dyno, but in HP Tuners, from 2000rpm to 6500 rpm in 3rd gear the car gets there 0.2sec faster than with stock exhaust, or about 5% faster... so I think the headers gave roughly +5% rwhp....VERY ROUGHLY.

I also logged my wideband’s AFR signal against MAF frequency in HP Tuners to check the tuning, and I cannot tell the headers leaned me out significantly. Still holding a very safe 11.3-11.6AFR. I am running off the MAF, have not dove into the SD tables yet.

Pic of one exhaust manifold next to a header.


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Oh l, wanted to mention one other thing. The nuts on the slip flanges at the factory donuts gaskets, were rusty and hard to get loose (had to soak them in WD-40 and use a break-over bar and a six point socket). I was confused briefly why I couldn’t get the second nut off on the driver’s side, and thought it had stripped. I was surprised to realize the second nut was smaller than the first. One was 15mm and the other was 14mm. I thought it was a fluke, until I discovered the same thing on the passenger side.


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Yessir. I pulled the trigger on them because, they were a direct, perfect fit, bolt on. I also like the price and the tri-Y design is intelligent when you look at the design vs the LS firing order.... and unless you are planning to go with a larger than stock cat-back, IMHO theres not much benefit to having a set of headers with a larger 3” collector just to neck down into the stock cat back.

I don’t have a dyno, but in HP Tuners, from 2000rpm to 6500 rpm in 3rd gear the car gets there 0.2sec faster than with stock exhaust, or about 5% faster... so I think the headers gave roughly +5% rwhp....VERY ROUGHLY.

I also logged my wideband’s AFR signal against MAF frequency in HP Tuners to check the tuning, and I cannot tell the headers leaned me out significantly. Still holding a very safe 11.3-11.6AFR. I am running off the MAF, have not dove into the SD tables yet.

Pic of one exhaust manifold next to a header.


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Nice comparison. Those headers look like a very nice way to pick up an easy 15 to 20 hp in addition to some torque and nice sound.

I am sure they sound awesome with the dual mode exhaust.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Yessir. I pulled the trigger on them because, they were a direct, perfect fit, bolt on. I also like the price and the tri-Y design is intelligent when you look at the design vs the LS firing order.... and unless you are planning to go with a larger than stock cat-back, IMHO theres not much benefit to having a set of headers with a larger 3” collector just to neck down into the stock cat back.

I don’t have a dyno, but in HP Tuners, from 2000rpm to 6500 rpm in 3rd gear the car gets there 0.2sec faster than with stock exhaust, or about 5% faster... so I think the headers gave roughly +5% rwhp....VERY ROUGHLY.

I also logged my wideband’s AFR signal against MAF frequency in HP Tuners to check the tuning, and I cannot tell the headers leaned me out significantly. Still holding a very safe 11.3-11.6AFR. I am running off the MAF, have not dove into the SD tables yet.
Great info, thanks a lot.

These headers for the price are a great buy, and no special fitment issues. I did notice there are two oxygen sensor bungs on each header, and one will need to be plugged, witch one did you actually use ???

Thanks again for the great pics and info.....:serious
 

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FYI, the best price was on Ebay.

I paid $627, no tax, and with free shipping. I was planning to be patient as it seemed from the details that I would be waiting till September for them to be delivered... however, I ordered Sat 8/3 and I was stunned to get an email that they had shipped 8/6 and I was floored when they arrived morning of Fri 8/9 via FedEx. They were drop shipped straight from Doug Thorley in CA.


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