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Well had oil changed today notice dip stick had 4 raised dots top three evenly spaced 4th was near bottom never saw this before what does each dot stand for top would be full unsure about next two.
Owners manual references cross hatch dip stick that’s what I’m use to seeing.
Anybody else notice this bought car new dealer has always changed oil I supply oil.
 

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I believe between the bottom one and the very top one is 2 quarts. Between the bottom and the next one up, second from bottom, is one quart. Then there should be hatch marks between the second from the bottom and top, representing one quart. I’m guessing none of this is exact so better to add slowly and keep rechecking.
 

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Well had oil changed today notice dip stick had 4 raised dots top three evenly spaced 4th was near bottom never saw this before what does each dot stand for top would be full unsure about next two.
Owners manual references cross hatch dip stick that’s what I’m use to seeing.
Anybody else notice this bought car new dealer has always changed oil I supply oil.
Flip it over and you should see the hatch marks...
 

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Top dot = Full/Max
Second from top = high low
Second from bottom = low high


Bottom Dot = Minimum/Low...... Flirting with disaster if you live in hilly and mountainous areas. Front of the car pointing to top of hill with too little oil in the pan. The sump can run dry as the oil migrates to the back of the oil pan.

One should never allow oil level to fall below the mid point of the two lower dots. There was a thread on a new dipstick with the crossed hatch stick as the replacement. That part number is 12669528. I replaced my original with that because its easier to slide back into the tube.

 

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^^^
Did the same in both SS and GXP thanks to that earlier thread. Many imports have this style.
 

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2016 Stock - Sunroof, Inflator, Manual Trans and Brake Squeal
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Mine has four dots as well as a cross hatch. After my 8 qt fill, and idle to build oil pressure, I'm usually right below the top dot. After an overnight rest the oil is pulled into the dot.

As stated three highest dots are about a one quart measurement. Might be a liter. I've never checked for the bottom dot. Maybe someone with a 5 qt change can chime in.

288841


Never had a issue with the dip stick. Just got to let it spin 90° on the way down. I always thought it was a smooth action when pulled out with my left hand.
 

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Yep, had to go check mine. 4 bumps on the back side; 4 dimples and the hatch on the front side. I did the old "whetstone the edges" procedure on mine. Goes right in with that 90 degree turn as said above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey thanks mine was right above third dot due to my working to complete basement drive car farther on this oil change spooked me don’t want any problems with engine. I do drive rather aggressively at times short burst so hopefully no harm done never saw it low wonder if they didn’t fill it all the way but I supply oil so I will keep close watch on it now.
 

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Bottom Dot = Minimum/Low...... Flirting with disaster if you live in hilly and mountainous areas. Front of the car pointing to top of hill with too little oil in the pan. The sump can run dry as the oil migrates to the back of the oil pan.

One should never allow oil level to fall below the mid point of the two lower dots.


I should clarify that part a bit more. If the sump is at the front of the motor, up hill can be a problem with too low oil level. If the sump is at the back of the motor. Then going downhill can be a problem with too low oil level. So always maintain proper oil level. I believe the LS3 in our application is rear sump.
 

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I should clarify that part a bit more. If the sump is at the front of the motor, up hill can be a problem with too low oil level. If the sump is at the back of the motor. Then going downhill can be a problem with too low oil level. So always maintain proper oil level. I believe the LS3 in our application is rear sump.
Sump is at the rear in the LS3 and most LS motor applications - because as you note that's the ideal location! Particularly in cars that can pin you back in the seat some and thus slosh the oil rearward too.

For awareness a notable exception is the LS2 in the Trailblazer SS and why one must be cautious picking up a used example. The AWD necessitated a front pickup (the hardcore guys doing builds will move to a rear pickup) and combined with AWD launches are known for chewing up the bottom ends due to low oil pressure.
 
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My first two mods on the car were,,,, the cable dipstick,,, as SOON as I got it home from Michigan,,, AAANNDDD,,, the Skip Shift Eliminator cable!!!!!

I have always hated those ribbon type oil dippers!!! The skip shift cable is self explanatory,,, AFIAC!!!

:rolleyes:
 

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Every time I see the title of this thread in "what's new" I think someone started a thread about me 😮
 

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No, I just left it at that. I didn't want them ripping into a brand new engine and I figured that even if it's in the sump it's too big to be picked up. Plus, the stick didn't show any indication that a rivet existed at some point.

6 years and 41K later all is good.


Did they do anything else to try and verify the rivet wasn't still in the oil pan?
 

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I wonder how many of us feel the thread is about us too...:ROFLMAO:

Bill

Every time I see the title of this thread in "what's new" I think someone started a thread about me 😮
 
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