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Probably was not fully charged at dealer after weeks in transit and such. If you have done mainly short commutes with a lot of the accessories in use it never got a chance to build up more than likely. Good luck with it JS 1943
 

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Batteries are batteries, unless it's an Optima. They pretty much can fail anytime, especially if the car is not driven regularly.
 

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Batteries are batteries, unless it's an Optima. They pretty much can fail anytime, especially if the car is not driven regularly.
Our SS's have low voltage battery shutoff. We also have an AGM battery like an Optima. I do not know what manufactur made this battery as it has a GM label on it. My thought is you have a bad battery, internal short?
Let us know what you find out!
 

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The dealer should do a minimum of 2 things...
Look for possible causes of battery drainage.
Replace with NEW battery.
 

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Our SS's have low voltage battery shutoff. We also have an AGM battery like an Optima. I do not know what manufactur made this battery as it has a GM label on it. My thought is you have a bad battery, internal short?
Let us know what you find out!
interesting - wonder if G8 has same battery, cuz mine still in good shape after almost 6yrs/60k miles.

my highlander battery had to be replaced twice in like 4yrs
 

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Never try to high-charge an AGM battery like you would a traditional lead-acid one. I do know from experience that a G8 parked for 2+ months may have a dead battery. Buy a Battery Tender and you won't have to worry about it for 5 years.
 

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Agm batteries if allowed to go weak will accept a surface charge but the damage is already done and it's life expectancy and ability to maintain a deep charge is gone. Read up on them.

Check the pickup and suv forums; the AGM batteries in the redesigns are AGM and are dying. After 7 days 1/2 of them won't start on dealer lots if not left in transport mode. This is with less than 1 month old vehicles that were charged for the 20 minute pdi mode charge.

AGM batteries require an AGM compatible charger set to AGM battery type. Charge it like a flooded battery and it's toast. Let it run down too low; just like the Fisker's Li-on and they basically brick.

The parasitic drain while sitting is very high due to all the electronics; especially the keyless entry and the anti theft so...

1- Keep it charged the right way with the correct charger set to agm if you use it for short trips. This includes trickle/maintainers ... check that it is compatible with or has a setting for AGM batteries!

2- use it for more than short trips frequently meaning >30 minutes ... Remember if you're the one with the radio volume at 40, blower on max and headlights on you are really discharging the battery ... they suck a lot of juice! Remember alternators are designed to maintain a full charge in a good fully charged battery ... NOT TO RECHARGE A WEAK OR DEAD BATTERY!

3- if not using it for >5 days turn her off in "transport mode".


Condition
Some customers may comment that there is a "Transport Mode On" message displayed in the DIC and/or the red battery light is flashing. The transport mode is intended for use on vehicles being shipped outside of the United States and Canada.
For the 2014 model year, some products will be shipped from the assembly plant with the Transportation Mode On. The feature reduces the electrical load on the battery when the vehicle is parked, which extends the battery stand time.
To alert the operator that the mode is on, the red battery telltale will be flashing and if equipped with a DIC, it will display a Transport Mode On message. When the Transport mode is on, the Remote Keyless Entry (key fobs) is disabled, as well content theft deterrent and exit lighting timers are reduced.
When the vehicle is running, the only difference in operation will be the DIC Message and Battery Telltale on. The Remote Keyless Entry function is restored with the ignition in run.
The intent of the feature is to prolong battery stand time. The mode may be left on while the vehicle is in dealer inventory. Also a customer may want to use the mode if the vehicle is going to be stored. The method to turn the mode off is the same to turn the mode on. Refer to the section below for the method to turn the mode off and on.
Copyright 2013 General Motors LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Correction
2011-2014 Vehicle Procedure
To turn the Transport Mode On/Off, it will be necessary to start the engine, activate the hazard flashers, press the brake pedal (automatic transmission) or clutch pedal (manual transmission) then press and hold the Start/Stop button or turn the ignition key to the crank position for 15 seconds. The same steps are used to turn on the feature.
2010 Chevrolet Camaro Procedure
To turn the Transport Mode On/Off, it will be necessary to activate the hazard flashers, turn the ignition key to the crank position, and then hold it in the crank position for 15 seconds. The Transport Mode Off message will be displayed and the Battery light will turn off.
2010 Cadillac SRX Procedure
To turn the Transport Mode On/Off, it will be necessary to push and hold the Start/Stop button while the brake is applied for 15 seconds or until the Transport Mode Off message is displayed. For SRX, if Transport Mode is active, this causes the RKE system to only work when the ignition is On or the BCM is awake (approximately 20 minutes after ignition off).
 

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So if the car won't be run for 40 days, best to slap a charger on it or just move to transport?


//Nick
 

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So if the car won't be run for 40 days, best to slap a charger on it or just move to transport?


//Nick
For that long I'd put an AGM compatible maintainer on it. Transport just drastically lowers the parasitic draw but there still is a draw.

My SS was built 12-12-2014 received by dealer 3-10-2014 = 3 months. Started fine before charge but that really doesn't mean squat. After the 20 minute 4.5 amp PDI charge the voltage was 12.32 which translates to a temperature corrected 50% charge!

A quick reference chart here without temp correction:

View attachment 7329

BTW looking at the DIC voltage while the car running is NOT battery voltage it is alternator charging and battery voltage combined. If it is always up near 15 and never drops down to low 13ish once in a while it is always 'full fielding' the alternator (max charge) and your battery needs attention. 'Full fielding' the alternator all the time exponentially reduces it life which BTW is another reason to get a long term majorguard they are $$$. I use a simple voltmeter on the battery terminals easy enough to get to behind the little door in the trunk.
 

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This is good info, but BS for the end user. Its absurd to think a car won't start after 7 days of sitting in my garage. I'm assuming all GM vehicles are having this issue?
It may not start if your battery is not charged properly only. It fully depends on how you use it and the accessories combined with the current battery state of charge.

Not all GM vehicles have this issue it is an issue with the high electronic feature vehicles especially keyless entry and IS an issue with all makes.

There was a lot of talk a few years back of transitioning to 36 or even 48 volt electrics because 12 volt was nearing the limits because of the coming high energy draw electronics but that idea seems to have died. I remember the days when 40 amp alternators were 'high capacity' now we have 150 amp alternators as the norm. The SS is 140 amp.

As an example of draw, all three GMT900 Yukons I had did the same thing... at night headlights on crank Bose premium up full blast and watch the headlights dim with the bass beats due to the draw from the subwoofer amp! Thats with a fully charged battery and 150 amp alternator.
 
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