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Got mine today (sunday) i had to chase one of the holes, The pressure plate bolt was crooked when I unpacked it. You can see the threads that came off. I feel all the surface rust will come off with little work View attachment 282901 View attachment 282902 View attachment 282901 View attachment 282902 View attachment 282903 View attachment 282904
Is it possible to take a picture of the front of the clutch cover? I'm just curious if it has a Luk stamp on it also. It's usually a light die stamp on the front of the cover somewhere.

90% of OEM clutches are going to be manufactured by either Luk or Daikin (now Exedy). It's strange though because Luk does not offer a clutch in it's consumer line for this application. I've even checked the Australian market Luk catalog and they only have listings for V6 cars. Usually if Luk is making them for the OEM, they will crank out more for the aftermarket repair side.

It's funny because Exedy does make a full DMF stock replacement kit and a SMF conversion kit. Part numbers are GMK-8562DMF and GMK-8671SMF. The SMF is not that much cheaper than the DMF. (Exedy Clutch Kit w/ DMF 08-15 Holden SS & HSV Vehicles GMK-8562DMF) (GMK-8671SMF VF 6.0LTR SS CLUTCH KIT - Northern Brake and Clutch Pty Ltd)

BTW, I have not heard back from ACS, or the US distributor Xclutch USA. I'll try again this week. Although after looking at the prices that both the Exedy and ACS stock replacement clutches are going for in Australia, I don't think they would be able to sell for less than what a factory clutch would cost from a dealer here. And that could be why they only offer the twin-plate clutches through the US distributor. (Xtreme Clutch Kit Incl Flywheel & Concentric Slave (KGM29601))

So for those looking for a deal on a stock replacement clutch, these Ebay ones are bound to be the best you'll ever find.
 

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Just FYI, it's up to 400 as of today.
Steven at Hawks Motorsports let me know that my clutch(es) shipped today, and that he is happy to give forum members a break on the price. Nice guys, good service. (y)
 

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Can someone give me the downlow on this.

These are 100% stock clutches for our cars at a good price? Are we seeing a short life span on stock SS clutches? Or are people with super chargers buying them for the inevitable?

I mean if a stock clutch is normally $800+ and I can only expect 100k miles out of my stocker then I may want to jump in.
 

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Can someone give me the downlow on this.

These are 100% stock clutches for our cars at a good price? Are we seeing a short life span on stock SS clutches? Or are people with super chargers buying them for the inevitable?

I mean if a stock clutch is normally $800+ and I can only expect 100k miles out of my stocker then I may want to jump in.
Both,,, sorta!!

Yes,,, the boosted guys are jumping on this for sure!!

HOWEVER,,, a clutch is an inevitable service item and all the parts have to be considered as consumables. Some will make it past 60K and some,, based on driving style and overall usage (Track Day duty,,) may experience more,,,, or less. I use the 50 to 60K mark personally as the average metric. I don't expect it to last much longer than that number. So no,, I will not be dissapointed if its necessary by that time,,, BUT,,, I will not have to shell out over $1200 for the Flywheel, Disk, Pressure Plate, Pilot Bearing, and the MUST have Release Bearing, which is integrated with the (Politically Incorrect Terminology here!!) Slave Cylinder!!!

These clutch kits, from this jobber lot, are 100% Factory stock,,, and available for (Well NOW!!) $399 shipped!!! This will allow me to order the Tick Performance, upgraded Billet release bearing fixture, Speed Bleeder (Requires a minor mod to the Bell Housing!), and stainless braided hydraulic lines (Apx $520) and STILL SAVE A TON OF CASH!!!

Now that said,,, no secret round here that I turn my own wrenches,,, so I usually don't have to factor labor costs in to it!! Just Lunch and Beers for the folks at the shop where I have a lift privilege!!!

Even if you don't do your own labor,,, buying one of these NOW while there may still be a few left (they were FLYING out of there this week!!) and put it on the shelf,, will make you feel like you won a Lottery prize,,, VS the charge for dealer parts and labor,,, down the line!!!

😎
 

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Steven at Hawks Motorsports let me know that my clutch(es) shipped today, and that he is happy to give forum members a break on the price. Nice guys, good service. (y)
Hey, that’s another great deal on a factory clutch! Nice find.

Has your stock clutch been holding up well with the additional power?
 

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Well damn now you got me thinking, I assumed this was like any other clutch and could trudge on for 250k miles.

My Nissan truck is at about 235k on its original clutch.

I should probably hop on this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I decided to pick this up as an insurance policy. I am at 65k miles and have no signs of clutch issues however for the price it’s just something I couldn’t pass up. I will do the cleanup and preserve it once it arrives for a future time to install.
 

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I picked one up myself as a spare. I will need it (or someone else) someday.

It arrived today, and looks good.
Pressure plate and flywheel surface are clean with no humidity rust. The backside of both have a light layer of superficial rust. Like rotors after the rain.

Good deal, glad I have this on my shelf.
 

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You (WE) will all want (NEED!),,,, THIS!!!


I will now be able to spend the money on this critical upgrade,,, thanks to this stellar price for the other guts!!! Yes,,, I will upgrade to the Billet release bearing support, stainless braided lines and the speed bleeder!!! I mean,,, after all,,,, I'm gonna be "In There",,, why F around!!!

😎
Did you buy these parts? I bought the clutch kit, not needed yet. I’ll wait for a review of these pieces to decide what’s next.
 

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Got my trio today via LTL... Came on a pallet with labels clearly stating not to double stack, but the carrier did anyway. There seemed to be more than enough protection stacked on top of the clutch kits to prevent any damage, which a quick visual inspection didn't show any obvious signs of damage.
However, they do have a significant amount of surface rust, 1 more so than the other 2, as you can see in the attached pics. So I guess I have my work cut out for me to prep these for storage until I need them. Any tips on how to simplify this would be greatly appreciated. Not sure if electrolysis is recommended, but I do have the setup for it.

Did anybody that purchased the clutch kits receive any additional items that aren't shown in the pictures I've posted? @cp-the-nerd mentioned that his came with a small padded envelope, which later was stated to be the pilot bearing. I did not have any additional items with mine.
 

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Did you buy these parts? I bought the clutch kit, not needed yet. I’ll wait for a review of these pieces to decide what’s next.
I have not yet purchased the stuff from Tick Performance. I will hold on that until I am closer to swapping mine out. That said,, I still have no intention of putting in all this effort,, to use the stock release bearing/slave cylinder. It also sucks to bleed it,, so imperative that I mod the bell-housing for the speed bleeder and braided Teflon/hydraulic lines. Just makes sense,,, since as I mentioned previously,,,, "I'm In There!!"!!!

Old Adage goes like this,,, Never enough time and money to do it right the first time,,, BUT ALWAYS enough to do it over again!!!

😎
 

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WELLLL I finally received my clutch kit!! It has a very minor dusting of rust,, but admittedly,, this one looks better than most of the pics already posted up here!! NO rust on any of the mating surfaces,, just a tiny bit on the pressure plate housing, and a tad on the outer flywheel surfaces/starter ring. Nothing I would go to great length to remove,, in fact,, I would be ok with just a few minutes with a soft brass/nylon brush,, just for aesthetics, before I bolt it up!!

OH!! And NO pilot bearing in this kit,,, but for $300 bucks,,,, I aint gonna complain!!

AND,,, These are indeed,,, LUK parts,,, FWIW!!!!

😎
 

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Update!!! Pilot bearings are least expensive on Rock Auto!! Factory bearing is just $9.92 plus $3.99 usps, and of course TAX,, for a total of,,, $15.23,, delivered to my mail box.

GM Part# 12557583
Rock Auto# CT1082

I toyed with the idea of spending a few additional bucks for the SKF branded part,,, but in all likelihood,,, that is the OEM anyway. the Timken is double the $$,, not worth it,, unless that is the only number left on planet earth!!!

;)
 

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My set of flywheel/disk/pressure plate arrived last Thursday via FedEx. There was some rust on the flywheel and pressure plate cover but the mating surfaces for the disk were in good shape. The setup came with pilot bushing/bearing, new flywheel bolts that had blue loctite and new pressure plate bolts. No issues with any of the threaded holes.

On Friday, I spent a couple of hours using a scotch-brite pad for metal and a sanding block to clean up the flat surfaces, then just a scotch-brite pad for metal to clean up the other surfaces on both the flywheel and pressure plate. Once the rust was removed, I wiped the surfaces with WD-40 and wrapped each part in paper for storage. I didn’t have to do anything to the clutch disk, so it is stored separately, away from contamination of WD-40.

As ESindon stated, all 3 of the major components are stamped with the LUK insignia.
 

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Mine came in today. Quite a bust of rust, looks all cosmetic so no issues cleaning up. That will be a job for next weekend :)
 
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