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I have had it to here with cleaning my K&N filter being an all-day thing and the mess that it makes. I have a whole K&N CAI that came with the car. I still have the stock setup down in storage, but I don't want to go back to stock if I don't have to.

What are some good options that aren't such a PITA to deal with? I know a lot of people seem to gravitate towards the RotoFab setup and others like the OTR intake setups. What's the biggest bang for your buck?
 

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There are dry filters to replace the oiled ones.
Find one with the following specs to fit the K&N CAI setup.
Flange Diameter: 6 In, Filter Height: 5 In, Flange Length: 0.625 In, Shape: Round Tapered
 

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I’m currently running a K&N red filter on the stock airbox. I used K&N in the past on earlier cars, and I agree they don’t clean up so well. Couldn’t find the green filters so this will do. In fact, I ordered two so I could rotate them and not wait around for one to dry. I also have an OTR and the Rotofab but I haven’t used them yet.

The OTR is quite popular down under whereas the Rotofab seems to be more popular here in the states. The OTR is a cleaner looking set up in my opinion, despite the more turbulent airflow.

If I somehow manage to go with my long-term goal, I would opt for a 5-inch true cold air intake, dropping down between the radiator and the driver’s side headlight.

In terms of bang for the buck, I believe they’re priced about the same. It’s been a while since I’ve purchased mine. Not sure if that’s what you meant, but for simplicity sake, the Rotofab is likely easier on the tune.
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I’m currently running a K&N red filter on the stock airbox. I used K&N in the past on earlier cars, and I agree they don’t clean up so well. Couldn’t find the green filters so this will do. In fact, I ordered two so I could rotate them and not wait around for one to dry. I also have an OTR and the Rotofab but I haven’t used them yet.

The OTR is quite popular down under whereas the Rotofab seems to be more popular here in the states. The OTR is a cleaner looking set up in my opinion, despite the more turbulent airflow.

If I somehow manage to go with my long-term goal, I would opt for a 5-inch true cold air intake, dropping down between the radiator and the driver’s side headlight.

In terms of bang for the buck, I believe they’re priced about the same. It’s been a while since I’ve purchased mine. Not sure if that’s what you meant, but for simplicity sake, the Rotofab is likely easier on the tune.
View attachment 302555
Your Intake goal would be sweet if setup like a ‘69 Olds 442 W30 where they pulled air from under the bumper via scoops.

I have a VCM OTR but Harrop’s design is more robust in how they latch the two clamshells together. VCM uses brittle, rinky dink plastic tabs which could break. I would have bought the Harrop but it was quite a bit more than a VCM kit.
 

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I bought my Roto-Fab back when all they offered was an oiled filter much like a K&N. A few years later I replaced the "wet" filter with a dry filter made by aFe (Advanced Airflow Engr) and have not looked back since. Easy to clean and for my level of driving these days no noticeable loss in perf over the oiled filter. I would look to see if aFe makes a replacement filter in the right size for your intake.
 

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RotoFab will sell with either oiled or dry.
 
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I have had it to here with cleaning my K&N filter being an all-day thing and the mess that it makes. I have a whole K&N CAI that came with the car. I still have the stock setup down in storage, but I don't want to go back to stock if I don't have to.

What are some good options that aren't such a PITA to deal with? I know a lot of people seem to gravitate towards the RotoFab setup and others like the OTR intake setups. What's the biggest bang for your buck?
The biggest bang for your buck is the stock setup. Supposedly it is not a limiting factor up to about 600 rwhp. I did replace the intake tube mess with an AEM tube for the ‘09 GXP. Otherwise I’d go with the VCM OTR, mainly for cosmetics.




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The biggest bang for your buck is the stock setup. Supposedly it is not a limiting factor up to about 600 rwhp. I did replace the intake tube mess with an AEM tube for the ‘09 GXP. Otherwise I’d go with the VCM OTR, mainly for cosmetics.




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I'd contend the aem is a cosmetic improvement as well. Another for the stock filter, aem tube.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The biggest bang for your buck is the stock setup. Supposedly it is not a limiting factor up to about 600 rwhp. I did replace the intake tube mess with an AEM tube for the ‘09 GXP. Otherwise I’d go with the VCM OTR, mainly for cosmetics.
So what you're saying is I'm not going to see much difference at all between the K&N intake and the stock setup? If that's the case I will gladly put my stock setup back on.
 
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I think that is the case, though I personally have no experience/data to back it up. It is based primarily on what I have seen on this forum over the years. It would be very difficult to prove one way or the other…

I believe it is more likely that there may be some “slight” gains in some scenarios with the OTR configuration, but I don’t see how a so-called cold air intake in the same location and basic configuration as the stock one (like the rotofab) can have any significant improvement over stock. And, all intakes are cold at some point, then they all get hotter…;-)

Gains with packages like Livernois offers (rotofab, tstat, tune) are likely all due to tune.

And I agree with TheMeal, even the AEM tune swap is just a cosmetic change, but it does look better IMO.


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I had a rotofab already installed when I bought the car. Out of curiousity I recently put in an Air Raid setup - from what I can see, the rotofab doesn't use the air scoop from the original like the air raid does - I haven't seen alot of difference but as it is winter and I am not getting the kind of driving I would during warmer times, will have to see the difference later this year.

If you are interested, I have a new air raid for sale on the sales site - I got 1 as a gift after buying one <redacted for classified rules infraction>
 

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I really think it would require running on a strip to see if there are any differences. Seat of the pants feel will be unnoticeable. There is probably more to gain in relocating the intake air sensor. I bought a HSRK harness to relocate the IAT sensor to the backside of my VCM unit. I then built a new sensor with a highly sensitive Omega thermistor to adjust rapidly. As a result, my intake temperatures are at or near atmosphere almost as soon as the car begins to move. The stock IAT sensor won’t do that and will retard timing. The engineer in me wanted to do this but I really don’t know how much it really improves my car’s performance. In this case it’s not about increasing performance but maximizing what you already have.
 

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VCM fixed the problem. My intake air temperature sensor relocation harness with a drastically improved thermistor eliminates heatsoak, too. At the end is the day it comes down to preference.
 
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VCM fixed the problem. My intake air temperature sensor relocation harness with a drastically improved thermistor eliminates heatsoak, too. At the end is the day it comes down to preference.
Absolutely. If you are happy with your setup and it performs as you'd like it that is all that matters in the end. VCM fixed the problem at least in part because Livernois Motorsports made them aware, which is a good thing for you and many others. The VCM also provides a very clean look that reminds me of Corvettes of the past. I actually went with the Roto-Fab before Livernois did their testing, it was one of the first ten produced offered under a first ten introduction group buy from Roto-Fab back in 2014. It was on my '14 before moving to my '15. I was pleased to see the Livernois write ups after the fact, and saw some further testing and validation when Livernois did the work on my '15. @[email protected] is an OEM supplier, and does testing and validation for both GM and Ford so I was not only quite pleased to go with them for the work but would not have considered anyone else. I have a pretty reputable performance outfit in my backyard, and sent the car to Michigan anyway. (y)
 

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Interesting, and I now vaguely remember the back to back dyno testing results and being mildly surprised. Anyone compared the design of Roto-fab to the stock setup? There must be a restriction somewhere in the stock setup relative to the roto-fab.


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Interesting, and I now vaguely remember the back to back dyno testing results and being mildly surprised. Anyone compared the design of Roto-fab to the stock setup? There must be a restriction somewhere in the stock setup relative to the roto-fab.


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I'm certainly no engineer, but if I were to hazard a guess (pure, unadulterated uneducated and amateurish speculation), I would think that the corrugated intake tube combined with the various chambers and baffles do a lot to "muddy" up the airflow. I would think that simply having a smoother cleaner flow of intake air would provide some benefit anyway. I know the cone style filter provided a much larger area of flow, but I don't know how well a stock engine uses or needs the additional area.
 

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I had a Rotofab before the VCM and it amazed me how well it performed considering that it mainly pulled semi-stagnant air from the bottom corner of the wheel well just like the stock setup. I would have thought it could really have benefited with a small scoop on the underside to pull air like the Fast Toys Ram Air kit (https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachme...t-ftra-1998-2002-camaro-firebird-img_0367.jpg) did on LS1 f-bodies back in the day. I think it just goes to show more air doesn’t automatically mean more power. I almost considered fabrication a transition piece to connect the end of the Rotofab tube to the bottom of the car. It’s really a shame the front end design of our car didn’t allow Rotofab to fabricate The Big Gulp like they did on the ZL1. If a Big Gulp style for the Rotofab was capable of being developed, I would have been on it like stink on a monkey.
 
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