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I've decided against adding a Whipple to my 2016 SS as we purchased another fair weather day car, an SL55 AMG, which has a Lysholm blower (and one's enough).

My SS has Kooks LT headers, the Rotafab cold air intake and a custom tune. It dyno's right at 400 HP and 400 LB FT of Torque.

Is a mild cam the best nest step to take in terms of bang of the buck? I'm looking at about $2300 for a CAM only or CAM and Heads for $5k.

Thoughts?
 

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2014 SS, Heron White, No Sunroof, added OEM spare
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Cam and heads would do it, if was me.
 
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I love the sound of a good cam! You'll need a kit of course, not just the cam. If you're installing yourself, that with a tune will be under $2300 easy. If you pay for labor like I did it will be quite a bit over. No experience with heads but if you are ruling out S/C then heads is the next step in my book. So both at the same time makes sense since the engine is torn down anyway. Might as well go with E fuel while your tuning anyway. :cool:
 

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I’m happy with my car (GP Tuning Stage 2 LS3 cam and GMPP CNC heads) but I wish I had saved up longer and done a supercharger. The power down low you get with a supercharger is very well suited to these cars since they aren’t exactly light. Most cams don’t start making power until 3k+ RPM so below 3k the car still feels stockish. I also can’t get below 1500 RPM or take off in 2nd without really slipping the clutch. So just keep that in mind. The lopey idle is awesome and, while I don’t buy cars because I care what other people think, but this car gets more looks, thumbs up, and questions than any car I’ve ever owned.
 

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Why not just supercharge it? I have kooks headers and an LSA and I went 10.8s first time out while still working bugs out. I had the car setup Na with a loose converter before and the LSA is so much more enjoyable to daily drive.
 

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Or nitrous.
 

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Why not just supercharge it? I have kooks headers and an LSA and I went 10.8s first time out while still working bugs out. I had the car setup Na with a loose converter before and the LSA is so much more enjoyable to daily drive.
See post #1
 
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Just be very thorough with your research of a combination, cam+tuner (and converter if an auto) so that you get a combo that meets your goals AND more importantly driveability preference.

Nothing will be more frustrating than putting in a poor combo that's going to surge down low and kill your off idle torque for gains at 6500+ to hit a dyno number. Make sure whomever you are buying the parts/tune from understand that. Lol I've found that some shops think a cam that can't be driven lower than 2k and idles at 1200 is perfectly streetable.
 
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Just be very thorough with your research of a combination, cam+tuner (and converter if an auto) so that you get a combo that meets your goals AND more importantly driveability preference.

Nothing will be more frustrating than putting in a poor combo that's going to surge down low and kill your off idle torque for gains at 6500+ to hit a dyno number. Make sure whomever you are buying the parts/tune from understand that. Lol I've found that some shops think a cam that can't be driven lower than 2k and idles at 1200 is perfectly streetable.
What is reasonable for idle and lower-RPM driving in a mild to moderate cam? Asking for myself in a 6MT, though the OP is an automatic.
 

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What is reasonable for idle and lower-RPM driving in a mild to moderate cam? Asking for myself in a 6MT, though the OP is an automatic.
Idle is a little easier for a manual car since you're sitting there in neutral with no load vs an auto on the brakes. So 900-950 isn't unreasonable for a cam with some lope, whereas on an auto you'd want a looser stall converter to idle at that speed as the stock stall would start pushing a bit while sitting there on the brakes. But really overall you'd want a cam that can chug away at say 14-1500rpms or so cruising around and not have it start surging on you like a bucking bronco. Also nice to be able to slip the clutch at a light from 1,000 or so as you would stock vs. 2,000 and chewing up your disc. The key is going to be overlap which becomes a function of duration and lobe separation angle. If you keep it under about 16 degrees or so you'll probably have decent street manners, but I would seek out an LS3 cam guru (like a Patrick G) for their suggestions. I put a cam in my LS1 way back in 2001, a baby .558/221 112LSA which had a bit of lope but only 4 degrees overlap and was a fun street cam, good low end torque and minimal surge. Now the setup has more cubes, ported LS7 heads and a cam with 32 degrees overlap. Makes huge power and the car is fairly light which helps, but it prefers to cruise at 2500, idles at 1100 and doesn't like life much below 2k.

The cam is going to be the most critical thing in the setup so don't get caught up in chasing 10 more hp at the expense of driving enjoyment. Many of us have done it and learned the hard way :hs:
 
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