[2074]

I believe your right about the "Ground Bar" location, But if I ever needed to jump start it, I would have a hard time scuffing the paint off of that location. I was able to find a large ground strap near the positive to attach to.
So far it's worked well.
Also I'm not saying this is an approved by Chevrolet charger, But the manufacture assured me it would not damage the car or the battery. And I've topped off the battery a couple of times so far.

IT AIN"T PAINTED.

You need glasses.:devil

 

[Stingray]

Silver car, on closer inspection no it's not painted. The goal is not to need to use it.
:wink

 

[Toasty]

The list of approved jump packs is abysmal. There's a reference to pocket chargers, too, but none listed...

 

[Alienviking]

So I have to put my SS on a trickle charger when going on vacation for a couple of weeks? That is just plain silly... Will a regular 1.25A battery tender do? I have a couple of those for the cars that sit for months on end.

 

[BadTrainDriver]

So I have to put my SS on a trickle charger when going on vacation for a couple of weeks? That is just plain silly... Will a regular 1.25A battery tender do? I have a couple of those for the cars that sit for months on end.

From my (limited) research, the consensus is maybe. Some have had problems, some have not.
As far as chargers go, CTEK MUS 4.3, $65 on Amazon. You can hard wire their pigtail system to the battery(will literally take five minutes), then just plug the charger in as needed.

 

[good2go]

From my (limited) research, the consensus is maybe. Some have had problems, some have not.
As far as chargers go, CTEK MUS 4.3, $65 on Amazon. You can hard wire their pigtail system to the battery(will literally take five minutes), then just plug the charger in as needed.

There is a listing currently on Ebay for $48 shipped.

 

[SaberOne]

While I have one of those approved Jump n' Go jump starters; but more times than not, I forget to put it back in the trunk after wall-charging. With the summer heat being around 110º in the garage, the thing' discharges after about 3-weeks.

For my own cars; I use the 'BatteryMINDer 128CEC1' Battery Charger/Tender; and even then, I get lazy.

 

[Alienviking]

From my (limited) research, the consensus is maybe. Some have had problems, some have not.
As far as chargers go, CTEK MUS 4.3, $65 on Amazon. You can hard wire their pigtail system to the battery(will literally take five minutes), then just plug the charger in as needed.

Well, the CTEK MUS 4.3 does look pretty good. Ordered one.
Thanks!

 

[good2go]

From my (limited) research, the consensus is maybe. Some have had problems, some have not.
As far as chargers go, CTEK MUS 4.3, $65 on Amazon. You can hard wire their pigtail system to the battery(will literally take five minutes), then just plug the charger in as needed.

There is a listing currently on Ebay for $48 shipped.

. . . aaaaand I see that there is now another listing on ebay for just $38.50 shipped.

 

[BadTrainDriver]

. . . aaaaand I see that there is now another listing on ebay for just $38.50 shipped.

Ordered! Thanks for the heads up!

 

[Toasty]

One case at a GM dealership recently illustrated the importance of proper battery maintenance and using GM-approved battery chargers or booster packs.

Using GM-Approved Battery Chargers and Booster Packs

Several vehicles returned to the dealership with both low-beam headlamps burned out. The cars had low mileage, but had been recently jump started after being in dealership inventory for several months. It was found that the non-approved booster pack used to jump start the cars was exceeding 20 volts at the headlamps, which caused the bulbs to be stressed during the jump start. Typically, the bulbs failed a few drive cycles later.

The use of non-approved battery chargers and boosters can also damage control modules and other electrical components. This damage is not covered by the new vehicle warranty. Warranty claims for component damage caused by non-approved equipment at the dealership may be debited.

TIP: The battery charger has to allow for an AGM selection when charging an Absorbent Glass Mat battery; otherwise, there is a risk of damaging the AGM battery.

:kboom:

Unless there's something about this in the user's manual, this is dealer/service department specific information. It never hurts for the consumer to use what the dealership uses, but if the owner is not informed of such things, they'll never know.

 

[Dolores]

I just learned there is a positive terminal under the hood in case the car needs a jump. So, a battery charger can be used under the hood instead of opening the trunk compartment. This solve my question about finding a negative connection in the trunk.

 

[15SuperSport]

I just learned there is a positive terminal under the hood in case the car needs a jump. So, a battery charger can be used under the hood instead of opening the trunk compartment. This solve my question about finding a negative connection in the trunk.

I've permanently mounted the eye ring connection piece under the positive cap and to the ground strap post just in front of it. It runs up next to the hood hinge on the driver's side allowing me to charge and maintain from the base of the windshield rather than with the hood open or worrying about alligator clips. If you follow the red insulated positive lead in the top pic you will notice an inline fuse on the positive side of the lead which is a plus.

 

[Dolores]

So that connector by the windshield goes to your charger. I assume you have a cap when it's disconnected so rain water doesn't get into that disconnect.

 

[15SuperSport]

So that connector by the windshield goes to your charger. I assume you have a cap when it's disconnected so rain water doesn't get into that disconnect.

I do have a cap, but it's for dust

 

[15SuperSport]

So that connector by the windshield goes to your charger. I assume you have a cap when it's disconnected so rain water doesn't get into that disconnect.

And don't forget the inline fuse on the positive side 👍