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Anyone planning on installing a sub-woofer? I think the Bose system sounds fantastic clarity wise however it is lacking a bit on the low end. I was thinking of adding something along these lines for a tad more mid/low end.

BassLink - Infinity
I think the stereo is fine. At least for me it is. I have the base turned up 3 clicks mids 2 and highs 5. Sounds good. I just wish the had pre set equalizer sets like rock, pop, country etc.


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Don't do it!

Anyone planning on installing a sub-woofer? I think the Bose system sounds fantastic clarity wise however it is lacking a bit on the low end. I was thinking of adding something along these lines for a tad more mid/low end.

BassLink - Infinity
The car already has a sub, it's in the front center of the dash. If you want more, I highly recommend you do NOT get the basslink, it's crap. I had one and the amp blew and you can't replace it so the whole unit was trash at that point. I recommend this Kicker Bass Station 10" Single Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure 11PT10CA - Best Buy
I have one for my other car and I got it with an2yr warranty just in case for only 250 bucks or so. It is awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The car already has a sub, it's in the front center of the dash. If you want more, I highly recommend you do NOT get the basslink, it's crap. I had one and the amp blew and you can't replace it so the whole unit was trash at that point. I recommend this Kicker Bass Station 10" Single Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure 11PT10CA - Best Buy
I have one for my other car and I got it with an2yr warranty just in case for only 250 bucks or so. It is awesome!
Thx. Ill do some searching. FYI...Best Buy linkie no workie.
 

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I was going to install my Boston 1000w amp and Boston 12". I might if I can find a way to do some sort of quick disconnect with banana plugs or something. It's situational for me, I enjoy the extra punch but, that whole setup /w box weighs a lil over 100 pounds. You could feel that.
 

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In my G8 I had a Rockford Fosgate R300 coupled with an MTX RE-Q5. Provided more than enough bass for me, and that's listening to death metal, hardcore, punk and house music. Comes with a remote to adjust level if needed. Still haven't decided on if I'm going to hook it up to the SS yet.
 
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Any idea if the factory head unit as a pre-amp out?
I've looked into this...

There are no outs. And the Bose perpriotary..

I'm doing infinty 6.5 three wat for the doors and to fosgate 10s(ported up through the rear desk). I'll need a processor to take the mylink audio and feed this into a fosgate 1000 6 channel amp to drive everything... Price quote was 3500
 

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Well I added my subs to my SS and they sound fricking awesome. That much bass added to the Bose system makes it all sound really nice. I actually used the box and speakers from two cars ago. It was a box I custom made, and it fits absolutely perfect in the SS. Like it was made for it. I mounted the amp on top of the box. I'd guess the entire box with two 12" subs and amp probably weighs around 80-100lbs. So yah it adds a little bit of weight to the car but thats ok.

I'm including photos as I went along. What I did was I completely disconnected the two rear deck subs and tapped into those two speaker lines and ran them into a line out converter (LOC). Then I ran the RCA cables from that straight into my AMP. Since those two rear deck speakers are subs, that means the Bose system is already taking care of the low-pass frequency filtering. So no need to filter anymore, just run them straight into the amp.

After that I ran a negative and positive straight off the battery to feed the amp. The battery connectors on the SS are kind of cool, to where they have accessory posts built into them. I had to use a nut on one of the posts since it didn't have one.

For a remote turn-on 12V+ I used the fuse in the rear trunk fuse panel labeled " RAP ACCY" Maybe that stands for rap accessory? Because thats exactly what a subwoofer usually is! Anyways, go to Autozone or Advance Auto and buy a "ATM Add A Circuit" which is located in the fuse isle. Remove the 10A fuse out of that port and plug in the add a circuit. Replace the first fuse with the 10A fuse that you removed from the stock fuse panel, then install a 3A fuse for your remote turn on.

The orange plugs are two extension cord ends that I got at the hardware store. I wired the 12V + and - and turn on leads in there. That way if I want to take the box out I can just disconnect that, and the RCAs and it comes right out.

Thats about it good luck.
 

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Lookin good dude. This will help me lots when I install my sub, thanks a bunch :)
 
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I got this to put an amp & sub in my car. Now my question is, do i run the rear sub speaker wires directly from the stock amp to this in order for it to send the signal and turn it on? The instructions are simple if you were running wire from the head unit directly but not for something like this. Or do i still need to run a power & ground to this?
 

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I got this to put an amp & sub in my car. Now my question is, do i run the rear sub speaker wires directly from the stock amp to this in order for it to send the signal and turn it on? The instructions are simple if you were running wire from the head unit directly but not for something like this. Or do i still need to run a power & ground to this?

Turning that on isn't done by the speaker wires, its done by the "Remote In" port. "Remote In" is a switched 12volt + positive that you can find by tapping off the fuse that I showed in my above picture.

The other two ports, +12V, and ground you can get by running wires straight to the battery. (with a fuse adaptor wired on the positive side, right before you connect it to the battery of course)

Then you tap into the two rear deck subs for the Right + and - and Left + and - Speaker Inputs.

Finally you can run RCAs out of it. Looks like your fancy unit has a cross-over built in. But you don't really need that with the SS. The rear deck subs already have been run through a filter so they are already only outputting bass. So you are ok with just using the Main Output.

I disconnected my rear subs while tapping into the wires. Not necessary to have two crappy 6" pieces of junk running when you have two 12"s running right below them!
 

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Wow Timbers that's an excellent writeup with visual aides! You're officially the Trunk Sub Guy of the forums.


Did you consider removing the 8" subs altogether so the trunk acts as a ported enclosure into the cab? That seems a decent amount of surface area to get bass frequencies through, but I wonder if there'd be any whistling or weird harmonics….
 
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hah

Wow Timbers that's an excellent writeup with visual aides! You're officially the Trunk Sub Guy of the forums.


Did you consider removing the 8" subs altogether so the trunk acts as a ported enclosure into the cab? That seems a decent amount of surface area to get bass frequencies through, but I wonder if there'd be any whistling or weird harmonics….
No problem! I'd make you guys videos but my wife isn't going to sit there and hold the camera while I spend entire days out in the garage.

Bass frequencies are penetrating, and non-directional, so there isn't really a need to remove the rear subs so that you will hear more sound. I can play some rap music and the bass is so loud that its hard to breathe in the cab. I would just leave the stock speakers in there. I don't think you would hear whistling, because sound waves have positive and negative pressure, so any air that is blown through the hole would get sucked back in as the speaker retracted!
 

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Anyone planning on installing a sub-woofer? I think the Bose system sounds fantastic clarity wise however it is lacking a bit on the low end. I was thinking of adding something along these lines for a tad more mid/low end.

BassLink - Infinity

No Highs, no lows...must be Bose...

Seriously - awesome write up!
 
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