[Navy Lifer]

In this thread, I posted:

Caster is pretty much fixed in the design of the Zeta suspension. It would require adjustment plates at the top of the struts to change caster--race level stuff. Note this listing (by CP) in another forum - caster plates and other suspension parts

There is an acceptable range to allow for production variation and to tell if there is something "wrong" with the car if caster is outside acceptable range. Camber and toe are adjustable.

My statement above was in error (which can no longer be edited), so I wanted to clarify--the caster "adjustment plates" mentioned above are NOT for the top of the struts. These plates are used on the lower radius arm(s) to "pull" the lower end of the strut(s) as far forward as possible--up to 1.25 degrees of added inclination (ie. caster) according to one supplier--thereby increasing the 6 degrees+/- "target", to set caster at or near the maximum recommended limit.

On the SS, the radius arm is the cast or forged aluminum part that can be viewed under the car, running forward from the bottom of the front suspension strut to it's frame mount - on both sides, one per side. It's task is to maintain the strut at it's optimum angle of inclination (ie. caster) and at the same time absorb impacts - there is a bushing in the forward end of the arm where the arm is attached to the chassis for this purpose.

In this photo, it's the silver-colored part behind the rotor running off to the left (to front of car):

High caster (much more than is found on older suspension designs) is generally considered preferable, as it aids in directional stability--ie. "more is better", within design limits--considering the high level of chassis dynamics in the basic Zeta chassis, and the high-performance driving conditions this vehicle was intended to excel in.

Further investigation has revealed some options that actually do provide a small degree of adjustability to both camber (beyond OE provisions) and caster. The following links are from several sources/brands, and if you dig far enough once inside the links, you'll find installation instructions with illustrations (PDF's, mostly) that will provide better clarification of what is being done in each case than I can adequately describe here.

CAMBER adjustment - in addition to available OE adjustment
(several suppliers offer similar offset strut-to-knuckle bolts)

SPC EZ-Cam 81280


CASTER adjustment - several suppliers offer kits

BMR Suspension - SPF-2959K caster plates
supplied by SuperPro - Australia


Pedders Suspension - radius rod bushings & caster lock washers
consists of: G8 EP6560 Radius Rod Bushings, includes 5421 kit
G8 5421 caster lock washer kit - available separately (also fits VF chassis)
per Pedders, this kit adds +1.25 degrees of caster


Whiteline - caster correction kit W83172
radius arm caster correction lock washers W53152
US source - example
per Whiteline, this kit adds +1/2 degree of caster


Whiteline actually lists Chevrolet SS as supported model - list of products that are available

 

[z51vett]

Thanks Bill I'm at 6.2 and 6.3 on my car spec is 6.0 so all is good for me would like to get the 6.2 to 6.3 just for me and my stubbornness. Camber is -.3 and -.5 front rear is -.7 and -8 rear toe is .06 front and .04 rear. This is what was on the car delivered and race shop said leave it alone.
z51vett
Doug

 

[Drew888]

Just an fyi, the alignment shop I go to will ask me what I'd like it set to. I once gave him a small range and he looked at me sideways. I then told him exactly what I'd like and that's exactly what I got. So much depends on the shop you go to. Now my guy also has very new equipment but it's not digital anything. He's an analog kind of guy. I'm always reassured by how well my care handles and how the tires wear. It also helps when I see him working on Porches to Subaru's and all in between (all seem to be performance cars).

 

[Sleeper1]

In this thread, I posted:



My statement above was in error (which can no longer be edited), so I wanted to clarify--the caster "adjustment plates" mentioned above are NOT for the top of the struts. These plates are used on the lower radius arm(s) to "pull" the lower end of the strut(s) as far forward as possible--up to 1.25 degrees of added inclination (ie. caster) according to one supplier--thereby increasing the 6 degrees+/- "target", to set caster at or near the maximum recommended limit.

On the SS, the radius arm is the cast or forged aluminum part that can be viewed under the car, running forward from the bottom of the front suspension strut to it's frame mount - on both sides, one per side. It's task is to maintain the strut at it's optimum angle of inclination (ie. caster) and at the same time absorb impacts - there is a bushing in the forward end of the arm where the arm is attached to the chassis for this purpose.

In this photo, it's the silver-colored part behind the rotor running off to the left (to front of car):

High caster (much more than is found on older suspension designs) is generally considered preferable, as it aids in directional stability--ie. "more is better", within design limits--considering the high level of chassis dynamics in the basic Zeta chassis, and the high-performance driving conditions this vehicle was intended to excel in.

Further investigation has revealed some options that actually do provide a small degree of adjustability to both camber (beyond OE provisions) and caster. The following links are from several sources/brands, and if you dig far enough once inside the links, you'll find installation instructions with illustrations (PDF's, mostly) that will provide better clarification of what is being done in each case than I can adequately describe here.

CAMBER adjustment - in addition to available OE adjustment
(several suppliers offer similar offset strut-to-knuckle bolts)

SPC EZ-Cam 81280


CASTER adjustment - several suppliers offer kits

BMR Suspension - SPF-2959K caster plates
supplied by SuperPro - Australia


Pedders Suspension - radius rod bushings & caster lock washers
consists of: G8 EP6560 Radius Rod Bushings, includes 5421 kit
G8 5421 caster lock washer kit - available separately (also fits VF chassis)
per Pedders, this kit adds +1.25 degrees of caster


Whiteline - caster correction kit W83172
radius arm caster correction lock washers W53152
US source - example
per Whiteline, this kit adds +1/2 degree of caster


Whiteline actually lists Chevrolet SS as supported model - list of products that are available

I tried using the SPC 81280 Camber bolts and they do not fit on my 2014. How did you get them to fit?

 

[Navy Lifer]

I have not used that specific product--the question really needs to be directed to SPC--the product look-up at the SPC website indicates 81280 is a part that can be used on the SS, and that's all I have as a reference.