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Good idea. If the battery is original, it's almost 6 years old which is near the end of it's lifecycle. If that is the problem, I guess that's a good problem. She's telling me to drive her more than once a week and longer than 10 miles.
Update: It told me my Keyfob wasn't charged, so I had to put the keyfob in the slot in the armrest to start it. After driving for a bit, it was able to start without the keyfob in the slot, so the battery is probably getting weaker. I have a Schumacher SC1280 charger. It says to put the negative on the engine block or something part of the frame. I haven't opened the battery compartment yet and am wondering where I would connect the negative. Is there something in that compartment for this? Any recommendations when using a charger.
 

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Use the charge points under the hood If you have clamps.
I hard wired my trickle charger to the battery itself and plug the charger directly to that cord.
 
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Use the charge points under the hood If you have clamps.
I hard wired my trickle charger to the battery itself and plug the charger directly to that cord.

Or:

 

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Do you leave trickle chargers on 24/7 or just for a day before you expect to drive the car? I would think it's safe to leave 24/7 as long as the trickle charger has the smarts to only charge when it needs to and you trust the smarts of the charger.
 

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Do you leave trickle chargers on 24/7 or just for a day before you expect to drive the car? I would think it's safe to leave 24/7 as long as the trickle charger has the smarts to only charge when it needs to and you trust the smarts of the charger.
As long as your device is considered a battery "maintainer" leaving it on is just fine. A trickle charger constantly charges, whereas a maintainer does just that, maintain. A maintainer will have various modes, charging, float, desulfate, etc. I've had mine connected when not using the car since about November of 2015. The car was built in March of 2015, the battery sometime before that, and to this point is still strong, albeit not left unplugged for more than a day or two. I did forget it for about 5 days last summer, plugged in and showed 95% at that point. * years in I am probably past due, but I'll ride it out until those SS voltage gremlins begin to pop up.
 
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even if you drive this car daily.... get a batt maintainer !! I have a real basic "tender" for the tiny Miata battery, and got a pretty basic Schumacher for the SS. They offset the cost of a battery once you have had one go bad from it going low....or getting old. TBH the 2016 factory Delco battery in the ol ChevRod has been remarkable.....its older than the original post !!
 
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Thanks for the info everyone. The unit I have does have a "maintain" mode. It also has a feature if the maintain mode goes for too much current over a 12 hour period, it would shut down indicating the battery might be bad or there is an unusual draw of current in the system. I found the Pos and Neg posts under the hood, so I think I'm good to go.
 

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The Charger indicated I was at 12.3V, so it went to full charge mode. I guess that would explain why the key fob wasn't recognized. Hopefully, the battery will hold a full charge after this is done and just needs maintaining.
 

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Change the battery in the fob @Dolores AND get ready to swap out that battery!! It is NOT a fine bottle of wine!! It will not improve with age!!

I have posted on the topic recently,, as you prolly know!!

;)
I changed the fob batteries in the past 2 years. My spare fob which I never use also wasn't working which makes me think it might not be the fob battery, but I will change both again. I'm ready for a new battery when the time comes.
 

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Both of my FOBs batteries were installed Nov 2019, so a bit over 3 years old. New batteries installed. Well... batteries still in a package installed. I suspect the package was purchased Nov 2019, so the batteries are the same age. My SS battery is now at 100% (was 47%) per the charger. I am not going to "maintain" it. My next drive will be Sunday, so if my key fob doesn't work and/or the start is a bit delayed after pressing Start, then I know my car battery has not held the charge and needs to be replaced. I then will hunt down ESindon's recent post about AGM Batteries and which one to purchase. wink wink.
 

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changing the battery in the key FOB, is about as easy as banking at Capitol One...... and when it gets low,, DAMN its annoying !!!
 

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I replaced the battery in my fobs once in five years. One of my fobs went through the washing machine and actually survived! 😵‍💫
 

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I replaced the battery in my fobs once in five years. One of my fobs went through the washing machine and actually survived! 😵‍💫
Need a clarification. You bought the car 5 years ago. Changed the fob batteries in year 3 and after 2 years, you can say you only changed batteries once in 5 years and are probably close to doing it again. OR are you saying you got 5 years with the same battery?
 

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After 6 days since I charged the battery, she started right up with no issues this morning. So, the battery held a charge for 6 days. We'll see what happens next Sunday. Science experiment... but ready to buy that new battery. I just need to figure out how to remove that inside panel to get to the battery. If it's not intuitive, I will look for hints in other threads.
 

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After 6 days since I charged the battery, she started right up with no issues this morning. So, the battery held a charge for 6 days. We'll see what happens next Sunday. Science experiment... but ready to buy that new battery. I just need to figure out how to remove that inside panel to get to the battery. If it's not intuitive, I will look for hints in other threads.
Easy peasy. Just be careful with the sometimes brittle 90° plastic vent elbow towards the rear of the car and be sure to vent the new battery properly. If you go with the larger 94R I believe you move the retainer clip at the bottom left side of the battery form the inner to the outer bolt hole.

 
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One from back in the day...
Open trunk.

Close all doors.

Place fob at least 20 feet away.

Wait 15 minutes for trunk light to go out.

Remove spare tire carpeted cover.

Unscrew 4 cargo net hooks

Carefully but forcefully remove plastic trim that the cargo hooks screwed through by pulling up. Work it it is usually tight.

Remove scrivits on left trunk panel (get a mirror to find them first).

Bend rear corner of panel carefully towards right front of trunk at 45 degree angle to gain full access to battery. Do not overbend.

Replace battery disconnecting/reconnecting terminals in proper order. #### If you don't know the proper sequence you should not be doing it !!!

#### see this I forgot: Battery removal - at home!

Reverse above.

You will have to carefully work with plastic trim tool the trunk seal weatherstrip to go over the plastic trim panel you yanked off. Pay attention to the seal orientation before you remove it above so you get it back the same. Tip: use a small amount of lube on clips so you don't have to beat on it too hard to get it back on.

Charge new battery with AGM charger before or after installing.

Only replace battery with AGM 720 CCA or higher.

Do not cheap out
.
 

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I had some weird things going on with mine, too, that I posted about not too long ago like door locks activating on their own and horn honk when I open the door. I finally replaced my battery with the identical battery as OEM after 80,000 miles (2014) model year yet my problems still remain and old battery still test good but will keep as a spare


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