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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just bought one. i think it will put down more of the power that the stage 2 cam and other modifications added. it dynod at 356whp. my friend and i think a lot of power is lost through the drivetrain. hopefully this will show a significant bump
 

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i just bought one. i think it will put down more of the power that the stage 2 cam and other modifications added. it dynod at 356whp. my friend and i think a lot of power is lost through the drivetrain. hopefully this will show a significant bump
What is the stock converter stall I’ve been thinking about it too


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You are right, more power is lost in the drivetrain of an auto rwd with irs than a manual equipped car. You are not correct in thinking you'll dyno more with a higher stall. You'll either dyno the same (if you lock the converter for the pulls), or less (if you don't). This has been true since before the ss, and it doesn't change with our cars.

That said, it'll be quicker in the 1/4 mile, and that's a nice converter to start with, I like my circle d converters.
 

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i just bought one. i think it will put down more of the power that the stage 2 cam and other modifications added. it dynod at 356whp. my friend and i think a lot of power is lost through the drivetrain. hopefully this will show a significant bump
What all mods do you have - you should not be at 356 whp with a stage 2 cam.....and as stated above and higher stall converter will not gain you HP.
 

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i don’t know what the stock converter is. i think it’s 2600 or 2800. but i have a rotofab cold air intake, full exhaust with high flow catalytic converters, msd ignition coils and some better spark plugs. it’s 350 to the wheels which i thought made sense. i also got a tune. i attached the dyno sheet. it says engine but it’s at the wheel
 

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That can't be a cammed ls3 dyno, it stops making power at 6k?

...msd ignition coils...
There's your problem.

I'm being cheeky, but those aren't helping. And by the results, I wonder if they're all working. But now we're getting off topic.
 

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There is no way that is a crammed LS3 numbers, that is closer to stock power

i don’t know what the stock converter is. i think it’s 2600 or 2800. but i have a rotofab cold air intake, full exhaust with high flow catalytic converters, msd ignition coils and some better spark plugs. it’s 350 to the wheels which i thought made sense. i also got a tune. i attached the dyno sheet. it says engine but it’s at the wheel
 

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I made 335whp on dynojet stock (sae smoothing 5, which will read 10-15whp lower than SAE smoothing 0 like your chart) with auto transmission, 355whp with intake and tune, 398whp with full bolts on (intake, headers, exhaust) which is pretty standard for our cars and LS3s. With a stage 2 cam and full bolts you should be at least 450whp according to most people's experiences.
 

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I thought he was saying that is his power level after the cam. I understand the normal power of a stock, cammed or boosted ls3.


I made 335whp on dynojet stock (sae smoothing 5, which will read 10-15whp lower than SAE smoothing 0 like your chart) with auto transmission, 355whp with intake and tune, 398whp with full bolts on (intake, headers, exhaust) which is pretty standard for our cars and LS3s. With a stage 2 cam and full bolts you should be at least 450whp according to most people's experiences.
 

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Not sure in his dyno post he only mentions bolt on, but in first post a cam. Either way 350 is way low for a full bolt on. I would guess the msd ignition also.

Op thought 350whp made sense for full bolt with an auto (blaming auto for lack of power), but he should be at 400whp based on everyone else's experience.
 
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