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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well add my car to the list of SS with leaking rear shock(s). Took it in for a 40,000 mile oil change (@40,135) last Saturday, and the multi-point inspection report came back with a leaking passenger side rear shock. Recommendation is for replacement of both rear shocks, for $1,620 plus tax.

Original everything as far as power train and suspension, and pretty gently driven. I do keep the shock setting at "Perf" most of the time though.

Put a call in to Chevrolet Customer Care today to request goodwill warranty repair and got a case number established. Someone will be calling me back tomorrow, hopefully with some good news.

If no goodwill, I will do the repair myself obviously and I won’t lose a lot of sleep over it. Things do go bad. But, it is still a bit disappointing that the oil seal has failed at such a low mileage – which I stated to the Chevrolet CC rep.

So we’ll see how it goes!

And, in the meantime, if someone could share the part numbers for the rear mag shocks I would appreciate it. All the online part sellers seem to only have listings for the standard version shock @ about $75 per. Somehow I think the adjustable dampening ones are a bit more expensive!
 

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Also, fellow Californian! Didn’t know there were too many of us out here lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks! For some reason all I could find were the standard version shocks, I tried 2015 and 2016MY's. Found them on rockauto for $399 (but AC Delco p/n), so ~$350 is better if it comes to me doing it myself.
 

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Thanks! For some reason all I could find were the standard version shocks, I tried 2015 and 2016MY's. Found them on rockauto for $399 (but AC Delco p/n), so ~$350 is better if it comes to me doing it myself.
The difficult thing about changing the shocks is that they have a wire pair that comes out a few inches. The wires are terminated in electrical terminals. These terminals have to be released from the actual electrical connector on your old shocks with a "depinning" tool so as not to damage the connector and allow the new terminals to slide in said connector and "lock-in". Kinda sucks but, some of the folks here have figured out how to do it.
 

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Conventional wisdom dictates that shocks are replaced in pairs. I'm not sure that applies to magneride shocks as they don't wear like conventional ones and thus a new one and an old one should (in theory) perform identically.

I have no idea what the official line on this is though. (Or even if the above is true in practice)
 

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I have the extended warranty with mine so if I think mine a leaking, back to the dealer she will go. Like Sheff mentioned, I am curious if they are replaced as a set (in pairs) or if you just swap out the bad one and keep it moving. If anyone knows, please post up.
 

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The difficult thing about changing the shocks is that they have a wire pair that comes out a few inches. The wires are terminated in electrical terminals. These terminals have to be released from the actual electrical connector on your old shocks with a "depinning" tool so as not to damage the connector and allow the new terminals to slide in said connector and "lock-in". Kinda sucks but, some of the folks here have figured out how to do it.
The first one I de-pinned took 30 minutes with multiple sentence-enhancing adjectives. The second took 5 seconds. It is easy once you figure it out!
 

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This is the newest warranty statement:

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=10379

Conventional wisdom for conventional shocks was to replace in pairs, or better yet all four when mileage/leaking/testing denotes it's time. On low mileage units I subscribe to the newest policy; but with a singular failure close to B to B mileage expiration I do not and would 'figure out a way' to do an axle pair.

Magride performance does not degrade as conventional shocks do. Yes there can be electrical and or seal failures; so for them I subscribe to the newest policy.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Interesting article. This jibes with what the service adviser told me, that GM will not warranty unless the shock is really leaking bad, and that suspension is "bouncy". Can you imagine a Z06 bouncing twice before settling in, ever? Maybe a big SUV. That is a very unscientific way to determine loss of dampening. Looks like GM is really trying to reduce warranty, at the expense of the customer.

In my case, the recommendation by the dealer was for both shocks to be replaced. I'm of the same mind as CB here, since it the shocks are magnetic controlled it would seem like if the shock was functioning then mixing a new with an old should be fine. I might change my mind when it comes to it, though, assuming that GM denies my request for goodwill warranty.
 

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I wonder if the recommendation would have been to replace both, if the car was still under warranty?

In my case, the recommendation by the dealer was for both shocks to be replaced. I'm of the same mind as CB here, since it the shocks are magnetic controlled it would seem like if the shock was functioning then mixing a new with an old should be fine. I might change my mind when it comes to it, though, assuming that GM denies my request for goodwill warranty.
 

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"During shock/strut testing, if the corner of the vehicle does not exceed two cycles after pushing down on the corner three times, the shock or strut is performing properly."

Heck, you're liable to dent sheet metal on newer cars by pushing down on the corner. If this is my approach, I think I'd be opening the hood/trunk and pushing down on something more structural.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I wonder if the recommendation would have been to replace both, if the car was still under warranty?
My guess would be no. And, I'm not sure my leak is at the level that would even qualify for a warranty replacement based on the GM criteria. I mean, oil film covering up to 1/3 of the shock body is still considered an acceptable part?? I have not gotten under my car yet to look at the shock, I will try to do it this weekend and see what is going on.
 

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I am sorry. Every time I read one of these threads it bothers me. While I know it's a small percentage of cars supposedly, replacing a shock/strut after 40k, especially at that price point they demand, is just inexcusable on GM's part. Especially since MRC is one of the big selling points on the SS. Shocks/struts are usually one of the more trouble free "don't think about it" parts on a vehicle.



I've searched and have not found much of anything on people replacing MRC completely with just standard struts/shocks or the Monroe GT Sport shocks with King springs. I realize it's a downgrade and once you consider the cost of the MRC simulators, shocks/struts, and springs (the MRC springs don't fit on standard struts? I read something about the bottom of the spring seating differently), it could be hard to justify. On the other hand, if you're keeping the car for 200k+ miles, it makes more sense from a cost standpoint going forward if this continues to be a problem. I'll be curious to see what the lifespan of the front struts is as our cars age.
 

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Non magride struts have a lifetime as they slowly degrade over time as do conventional shocks.

They are not 'lifetime' or 200,000 mile service life.

I would consider 75,000 - 100,000 miles the SAFE service life limit of conventional struts due to handling/braking degradation even if they are not leaking.
 

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My last car was a 09 Impala SS, by 50,000 miles the front struts were so bad it was dangerous.
 

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My last car was a 09 Impala SS, by 50,000 miles the front struts were so bad it was dangerous.
... as did the 1991+ B bodies. They chewed up front shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am sorry. Every time I read one of these threads it bothers me. While I know it's a small percentage of cars supposedly, replacing a shock/strut after 40k, especially at that price point they demand, is just inexcusable on GM's part. Especially since MRC is one of the big selling points on the SS. Shocks/struts are usually one of the more trouble free "don't think about it" parts on a vehicle.



I've searched and have not found much of anything on people replacing MRC completely with just standard struts/shocks or the Monroe GT Sport shocks with King springs. I realize it's a downgrade and once you consider the cost of the MRC simulators, shocks/struts, and springs (the MRC springs don't fit on standard struts? I read something about the bottom of the spring seating differently), it could be hard to justify. On the other hand, if you're keeping the car for 200k+ miles, it makes more sense from a cost standpoint going forward if this continues to be a problem. I'll be curious to see what the lifespan of the front struts is as our cars age.

Totally agree. There is no excuse for a failure at such low mileage IMO. No way I would downgrade to non-mag suspension, despite the poor lifespan the calibration is about as close to perfect as I could ask for. Pretty smooth ride in Tour for when I'm driving with my wife on the 405 freeway, and firm on the other settings for more spirited driving.
 

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Non magride struts have a lifetime as they slowly degrade over time as do conventional shocks.

They are not 'lifetime' or 200,000 mile service life.

I would consider 75,000 - 100,000 miles the SAFE service life limit of conventional struts due to handling/braking degradation even if they are not leaking.

I totally agree. I wasn't suggesting regular shocks/struts would last 200k. I was just considering total cost if keeping the car for say 20 years, and only if leaky rear shocks continues to be a "a thing". Hopefully, it's isolated to a certain production run.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So Chevrolet customer care responded to me today with their offer, they will cover about half of the replacement cost for both rear shocks, my end will be a little over $800. That’s slightly more than if I do the job myself and replace both shocks, but on the other hand I don’t have to do the work myself…

Not as good a deal as I had hoped, but fair, I suppose since they could just say “out of warranty, customer pay” like some companies might do.

I’ll probably take GM up on it, since rear shock seal failure seems not infrequent on 2015’s.
 
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